barnett468

yeah...when you hook the other 7 back up it should really run good.

ummm...don't you have a roof or something to fix.

you could try perogies, or dead nuts on, or mansfield mustang, and there are a couple others that slip my mind right now.

nope, that is it. I have used in on master cylinders many times. It is not required to bake it on but it is better, plus it can be dried with a high watt hair dryer or heat gun which is better than not heating it at all.

parkerizing will leave it a dark color and it can still rust. the high temp cast iron paint you brush on then bake is one of the better deals.

you can use factory shoulder harness belts but may have to weld the nut in the roof for them unless it is already in your roof.

It won't crack it paintable sealer is properly used and the paint is properly applied.

whatever you do, you should not replace only 1 rotor, because that may cause the car to pull to one side some when braking.

do you have a boss 302?

I paint them body color which they originally were then some black was typically sprayed over part of them.

I don't know what you mean by "cowl buckets", but if it is not a concourse car, and is just a show car, I paint the area under the header panel semi gloss black (which it should be anyway) and the entire fender inside and out, and the entire headlight housing inside and out.

As far as oil goes, in your particular case, and due to the extreme cold winters, a couple of good choices are below, however, the synthetics can cause some engines to weep oil at the rear main seal. Wallyworld has the best prices on them. As far as oil filters go, Wix is one of the best for oem apps. Valvoline VR-1 10w-40 Semi Synthetic. Mobil 1 0w-40 FS - This is one of the best oils available. As far as anti freeze goes, the old prestone green or zerex asian formula are both good, and if you let it sit for long periods i would use the zerex.

1. yes. 2. yes. 3. yes. 4. ignition coil. 5. the blue box is a stock type voltage regulator. 6. the round thing above it is the stock type starter solenoid.

i would run non ethanol gas if you can get it. leaded gas is best but not necessary. It looks like you may have extra wires that are not original that may go to a aftermarket stereo or alarm etc, and if so, you can remove those if you want. Look at stock mustang engine compartments online to see how they should look.

Which setup is it exactly?

You can certainly put a brake booster in there since ford made power disc brakes on 428 mustangs. Without a booster you will need to run 17 inch rims with the large diameter rotors if you want to be able to stop without having to use 2 feet on the pedal. Also, if you use wilwood brakes, the radial calipers are the best ones they have. Also use the wide rotors wilwood makes if you use their brakes. You can also install 2 lb residual valves in the front and rear lines to reduce pedal travel.

Buy it from oreily or autozone etc so it is warranteed, but it will say "Assembled in Mexico" on the box, and the parts are probably from China.

Most aftermarket discs are now made in China, including, some, if not all Raybestos rotors. EBC pads and discs are made in England.

If you want to improve on the stock setup, you can run EBC Green Stuff pads, and shoes if they make them. If you drive it hard occasionally, ENDLESS RF650 brake fluid will give you the firmest pedal feel without fade. sales@gmgracing.com www.gmgracing.com 714.432.1582 facebook | twitter | youtube

1. Since you have a manual trans, both the radiators I have will work. 2. Yes, it is. 3. The 69 vs 70 BOSS 302 shrouds for 24" rads may be different. 4. If the 70 shroud is different you may be able to use that one. 5. Yes, then they took it right back out because it hit the shroud. 6. Then it won't overheat with the correct smaller fan. 7. I think your photos 1 and 2 are a 69 shroud. 1970 Boss 302 and 70 351 cleveland fan shroud.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

That's great news, however, it is better if you use the brace, so maybe you can modify it, or eventually get the right booster.

you should not have the front line running upward because it can trap air and not bleed it out.

do you have repo fenders or doors? did it fit better before you took it apart? you "should" be able to run up to around a 3/32" gap between the cowl panel and fenders. around 5/32" is a typical door gap with 3/16" being around the max and pretty large at that. I have seen that pillar post gap vary in width with it being around 1/4" on average. The gap between the sides of the hood and the fenders should be around 5/32", and this gap will determine what the gap between the pillar post and door, and fender and cowl is. I have had to literally "twist" doors on a box stock car to get everything to fit to what I thought was an acceptable degree.

ok but that does not tell me what size the tubes are or if it looks like they might be getting plugged? how thick is the core only, not the top or bottom tank?