jrw69

I have a set of original door panels off my 1969 Mach 1. Panels are in need of total restoration of carpet, hardware and vinyl. Car is a Dearborn build with panels from the Utica Plant stamped on back of the masonite. C9ZB-65241A08-A and C9ZB65241A09-A. FoMoCo. I can send pics if interested.

will do, battery is 5 or 6 yrs old now. Thanks Brian

Today tried to start and starter clicked then nothing. I had the door open and all the interior lights went out. I waited a minute then tried again and the same, starter clicked and all interior lights went out again. Checked battery with meter and had 12V then checked solenoid had 12V. Almost seems like you turn off the ignition before it starts. I wait a minute and the same condition. Any ideas, maybe voltage regulator? or bad solenoid? I checked the grounds and seemed ok. Any ideas? Have original wire harness but never had this before. 69 Mach 351W. Thanks

1969_Mach 1 Thanks for this reminder. I have a 11" clutch so must have a 164 tooth ring gear. I wasn't sure of the offset. With the top loader it should be a 3/8" I assume.

I have a 4 speed top loader. I will check out gear reduction starter Thanks

will check grounds, just put in a new solenoid. Do like to keep the original starter if possible. Thanks

Wanted some input on starters. 69 Mach with 351W, long tube headers having hard starting when hot. I have a stock starter now and was wondering about changing to a mini. I looked at the PA Performance 1881 starter at CJ Pony. Has anyone gone this route and what are your thoughts on this? Thanks

Will check the ground, I actually was thinking that could be an issue. Thanks

yes, new ignition switch last fall and have the same trouble. This points to solenoid since I can hit it with screwdriver handle and it cuts through and starts.

Thanks, I will try for original Motorcraft.

Now getting ready to change my 3d solenoid. Any ideas on better made solenoids. My last 2 were bought at CJ Pony but don't last. When I turn the key there is nothing. If I hit on the solenoid with a screwdriver handle it will cut the current through and start. The relay or plunger in the solenoid must stick. The battery is fully charged so it isn't a battery issue. I assume it is the quality of the solenoids. My Mach 1 is a weekend driver and local car shows so I don't need a concourse looking solenoid. 1969 Mach with 351W. Thanks

Thanks again Midlife. Will probably go for a run only.

Thanks for the picture, that's a big help. One question, is the 12V red wire spliced from the red going to the plug in the wire harness or from the ignition switch Just want to be sure. Thanks

Thanks Midlife. Will do that. JRW69

I ordered a volt meter to replace the AMP meter from Rocketman's for my 1969 Mach 1, They said to fold back the AMP meter connections. Does this mean to fold them back at the plug where it plugs into the cluster? Wondering if anyone has done this conversion yet, and if so how did it work? Looks like it is the red and yellow on pins 16 and 17 of the plug. Thanks JRW69 1969 Mach 1, 351W