jrw69

ok will do that, Thanks Midlife

Midlife Follow up question Can I cut this clip out so to get to the wires? Some have lost the covering and need to be replaced. Once this clip is off I can repair or replace them. Thanks

Thanks Midlife May leave it alone rather than try to remove it as it may cause more problems.

Hi Brian Exact location, but these are different. My electrical assy book shows it as a wire loom clamp # 382184-S. Pics aren't great but the clamp has the wire going through it. I have a 69 Mach with 351W from Dearborn so maybe they used different clamps. Doesn't appear to have a way to squeeze or pry it off to get the wiring out.

Is there a way to remove the wire loom clamp that holds all the wires to the alternator and wire harness? I need to clean up and rewire some wires. This is just below the solenoid and voltage regulator.I can cut it out but would like to reuse if possible Thanks

How many times do we get told by the experts that our 69 Mach 1 came with a cleveland because they know someone who had one. I just smile and walk away. Most times it is someone not even born in 1969. Love the 351W

I ran 12 V for choke to green/red stripe on the voltage regulator, works fine with a 670 Street Avenger on my 69 Mach 1

Installed one on my 69 Mach 1 and had no problem. Make sure you have the correct one for manual steering and the correct year.

Update, Installed new roller idler arm, made a big difference in steering effort especially at low speed. I would recommend this before buying and installing the power steering kit. Not power steering but a good improvement. Roller bearings make the difference over the rubber bushings.

Contacted Opentracker Racing and ordered the roller idler arm. $85 plus shipping. Thought I would go this route first. If it improves steering then it's good enough and won't have the hassle of fitting Borgeson and header and z-bar issues. Have gotten good feedback on this from Mach 1 and others. When I get it installed I will post results.

Thanks Mike Am looking at that as an option also. Better than new z-bar and kit and getting everything to fit with headers and all.

Thanks to both. I also read about the issues with the collapsible steering shaft issues with the bushings and see this could be a problem. I now have have the Flaming River Steering Box which is better than the stock but still is tough turning sometimes. I will have to think more on this before changing. I agree on aftermarket things not meeting expectations, some is totally junk. Thanks jrw69

Finally tired of armstrong steering. I am looking at Borgenson kit but need to change z bar and may have header clearance issue. I have a 1969 Mach 351W with top loader and Hooker Long Tube headers. I looked at new z bar orp 67 at Open Track Racing for changing z bar and clearing the header tube and it seems to be the answer for all clearance issues. I know from the forum some have luck and some are nightmares so wondering if this makes it. I know different headers makes a difference so can use some advice before spending the bucks. JRW69 Thanks

I have a set of original door panels off my 1969 Mach 1. Panels are in need of total restoration of carpet, hardware and vinyl. Car is a Dearborn build with panels from the Utica Plant stamped on back of the masonite. C9ZB-65241A08-A and C9ZB65241A09-A. FoMoCo. I can send pics if interested.

will do, battery is 5 or 6 yrs old now. Thanks Brian