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jrw69

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jrw69 last won the day on November 19

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About jrw69

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/25/1947

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  • Location
    Massachusetts
  • Interests
    1969 Mach 1s

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  1. How many times do we get told by the experts that our 69 Mach 1 came with a cleveland because they know someone who had one. I just smile and walk away. Most times it is someone not even born in 1969. Love the 351W
  2. I ran 12 V for choke to green/red stripe on the voltage regulator, works fine with a 670 Street Avenger on my 69 Mach 1
  3. Installed one on my 69 Mach 1 and had no problem. Make sure you have the correct one for manual steering and the correct year.
  4. Update, Installed new roller idler arm, made a big difference in steering effort especially at low speed. I would recommend this before buying and installing the power steering kit. Not power steering but a good improvement. Roller bearings make the difference over the rubber bushings.
  5. Contacted Opentracker Racing and ordered the roller idler arm. $85 plus shipping. Thought I would go this route first. If it improves steering then it's good enough and won't have the hassle of fitting Borgeson and header and z-bar issues. Have gotten good feedback on this from Mach 1 and others. When I get it installed I will post results.
  6. Thanks Mike Am looking at that as an option also. Better than new z-bar and kit and getting everything to fit with headers and all.
  7. Thanks to both. I also read about the issues with the collapsible steering shaft issues with the bushings and see this could be a problem. I now have have the Flaming River Steering Box which is better than the stock but still is tough turning sometimes. I will have to think more on this before changing. I agree on aftermarket things not meeting expectations, some is totally junk. Thanks jrw69
  8. Finally tired of armstrong steering. I am looking at Borgenson kit but need to change z bar and may have header clearance issue. I have a 1969 Mach 351W with top loader and Hooker Long Tube headers. I looked at new z bar orp 67 at Open Track Racing for changing z bar and clearing the header tube and it seems to be the answer for all clearance issues. I know from the forum some have luck and some are nightmares so wondering if this makes it. I know different headers makes a difference so can use some advice before spending the bucks. JRW69 Thanks
  9. I have a set of original door panels off my 1969 Mach 1. Panels are in need of total restoration of carpet, hardware and vinyl. Car is a Dearborn build with panels from the Utica Plant stamped on back of the masonite. C9ZB-65241A08-A and C9ZB65241A09-A. FoMoCo. I can send pics if interested.
  10. will do, battery is 5 or 6 yrs old now. Thanks Brian
  11. Today tried to start and starter clicked then nothing. I had the door open and all the interior lights went out. I waited a minute then tried again and the same, starter clicked and all interior lights went out again. Checked battery with meter and had 12V then checked solenoid had 12V. Almost seems like you turn off the ignition before it starts. I wait a minute and the same condition. Any ideas, maybe voltage regulator? or bad solenoid? I checked the grounds and seemed ok. Any ideas? Have original wire harness but never had this before. 69 Mach 351W. Thanks
  12. 1969_Mach 1 Thanks for this reminder. I have a 11" clutch so must have a 164 tooth ring gear. I wasn't sure of the offset. With the top loader it should be a 3/8" I assume.
  13. I have a 4 speed top loader. I will check out gear reduction starter Thanks
  14. will check grounds, just put in a new solenoid. Do like to keep the original starter if possible. Thanks
  15. Wanted some input on starters. 69 Mach with 351W, long tube headers having hard starting when hot. I have a stock starter now and was wondering about changing to a mini. I looked at the PA Performance 1881 starter at CJ Pony. Has anyone gone this route and what are your thoughts on this? Thanks
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