jrw69

OK, Thanks Midlife for the information. I have the 3 pin version of the VR.

Wanted. to be sure and double check on this. I am changing ammeter to voltmeter with a build from Rocketman. I will use a 12V switched source for 12V. Wanted to be sure if I can remove red and yellow ammeter leads from pins 16 and 17 on the plug on instrument panel. I would cut them and fold back and insulate. I assume this is all I need to do to disconnect them? Hopefully Midlife can advise. I will leave enough slack so they could always be reconnected if ever needed. Thanks JRW69

Alternator harness at C J Pony Parts. Has each year with or without tach. Also NPD Parts. Harness goes from main harness to alternator.

Totally agree with all mentioned. My restore started about the same, concentrate on safety first. Disk brakes, steering , lights, signals, new suspension etc. motor and transmission checked out, for freeze plugs , seals and gaskets, etc. Once these are done the paint and interior can follow. Above vendors are real good for parts.Takes time but is all worth it. When driving the car it will turn heads. Best of luck

ok will do that, Thanks Midlife

Midlife Follow up question Can I cut this clip out so to get to the wires? Some have lost the covering and need to be replaced. Once this clip is off I can repair or replace them. Thanks

Thanks Midlife May leave it alone rather than try to remove it as it may cause more problems.

Hi Brian Exact location, but these are different. My electrical assy book shows it as a wire loom clamp # 382184-S. Pics aren't great but the clamp has the wire going through it. I have a 69 Mach with 351W from Dearborn so maybe they used different clamps. Doesn't appear to have a way to squeeze or pry it off to get the wiring out.

Is there a way to remove the wire loom clamp that holds all the wires to the alternator and wire harness? I need to clean up and rewire some wires. This is just below the solenoid and voltage regulator.I can cut it out but would like to reuse if possible Thanks

How many times do we get told by the experts that our 69 Mach 1 came with a cleveland because they know someone who had one. I just smile and walk away. Most times it is someone not even born in 1969. Love the 351W

I ran 12 V for choke to green/red stripe on the voltage regulator, works fine with a 670 Street Avenger on my 69 Mach 1

Installed one on my 69 Mach 1 and had no problem. Make sure you have the correct one for manual steering and the correct year.

Update, Installed new roller idler arm, made a big difference in steering effort especially at low speed. I would recommend this before buying and installing the power steering kit. Not power steering but a good improvement. Roller bearings make the difference over the rubber bushings.

Contacted Opentracker Racing and ordered the roller idler arm. $85 plus shipping. Thought I would go this route first. If it improves steering then it's good enough and won't have the hassle of fitting Borgeson and header and z-bar issues. Have gotten good feedback on this from Mach 1 and others. When I get it installed I will post results.

Thanks Mike Am looking at that as an option also. Better than new z-bar and kit and getting everything to fit with headers and all.