Rsmach1

You can use mercon VI as well, I believe Motorcrafts V is a semi synthetic and VI is a full synthetic. If your tranny guy says mercon VI, by all means use it. The TSB I referred to was probably prior to mercon VI being available.

Nickjames138, you need to check all the bushings/ball joints, put those new springs/shocks on, have the alignment done. Also check the play in the steering box. A quality rack isn't a waste of $ if you can afford it.

Mercon V, and about 12qts total with the converter. Ford had a TSB recommending this fluid to help with a torque converter shudder issue.

I thought this looked familiar, you'll probably get the same answer's as last time. For lower mounts you can try Drake's for the aluminum rad. http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C8ZZ-8052-B.aspx?wid=141 And their insulators wich might need tweaking. Or NPD'S cheap lower mount. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_brackets_lower_radiator_mount_good_repro-106126-2824.html And their insulators wich will most likely need tweaking. For the upper mount check this thread. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/54936-upper-mounting-bracket-for-champion-radiator/?fromsearch=1 As far as $, NPD'S lowers are cheap, and I'm sure can be made to work easy enough. For the upper it's either 1. Buy one and modify it. 2. Buy 2 and do as whats shown in the thread above. 3. Fab your own.

Are you mounting an aluminum rad?

Great info Mike, just curious, did you use Dynacorn pieces?

Great deal with the coupon.

Nice looking car.

BB's used the 24"

Your welcome.

Hate it when that happens.

I'll bet there's not too many, the Marti will tell for sure.

Sorry about the bad part # the -F is actually an advance weight, I had it written down from years ago as a spring (my bad). The good news is the one spring worked, I had the same 400rpm drop issue when I recurved my dizzy 20+ years ago, and it took me a couple days to finally figure out what was going on. I'm glad it worked out for you.

Oh yeah, and take measurements...

I'm in the process of this as well, radiator support and both front aprons. Get yourself a good spot weld cutter, I've used this one https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/spot_weld_cutter_hardened_by_blair-106724-0.html and it works quite well, just have too be careful not to cut past the panel you're removing. I haven't removed the front crossmember yet but a couple members here have, I'm sure they will chime in. Do you have a Mig welder yet? Have any welding experience?

OK at that price I'm gonna start looking for a late 70s stang to put it on lol

Wow... Now that's a super smokin deal!!

That's my favorite dragging sensation.

You're welcome :)

No needed to change the pedal unless the OP wants power brakes, current manual drum pedal will be fine with manual disc's.

OK straight from ford, as I originally thought, the drive shaft itself are the same length for all 351w. The difference comes into play when using any of the performance shafts, as they have more "meat" in the center, and are not typically machine far enough down to accept the EFI equipped dizzys. So if your comfortable with your old shaft, length wise it should be fine with an older dizzy.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6605-a341 Some catalogs list it as 69-73/74 and others don't specify.

Well here's the deal, most of the aftermarket drives do in fact say 69-96. However the FRPP shaft says 69-74, so there must be a difference for a reason. I've seen posts saying the ARP shaft is too long, some too short. Too long and you can bind the oil pump, or cause dist/cam gear issues. Too short and you run the risk of it rounding, especially if you have a HV oil pump (do you?). Also I would NEVER use/reuse an old stock oil pump drive, it's a $25 part that can cause serious grief if it fails. EVERY engine I've done gets a new one. I don't know about the late model shafts, but the early ones are thin, and I've seen them twisted before. I know it will be a royal pain, but I would highly recommend you drop the pan. Once you pick out a dizzy (and a NEW driveshaft) you'll be able to check endplay. PS I've never have any issues with ARP's oil pump drive's, and I always check endplay.

If staying with manual brakes you will need a new M/C as stated above. One option would be one from a 74 Maverick with manual disks (don't use the Maverick pushrod, get an adjustable).

+1 with Midlife, exactly how I did mine. Paint sticks are you're best friend