Rsmach1

Wow dude, that's awesome!!! Makes me regret selling my Mach, but, I'm sure that would fit in my new 74 F100 shortbed project, and I'd be able to do it with a smaller hood scoop haha. Extremely nice bud.

I'm there, great site. Thanks

Hey Ridge that Stepside looks great, and I'm liking the pre-runner look, just might have to re-think dropping it. Hell I'd drive that as is on the street np.

Thank you guy's soo much, it'll try and pop it in from time to time. As far as picks it started it's life as a work truck so it's a little ruff, but totally rust free. But NO picks till I get the HORRENDOUS 22s off it lol.

Hahahaha, RPM, your sense of humor is one thing I'll miss the most.

I just retired (disability) this year. It was the main reason I went with a truck, much easier for me to get in and out of haha.

Thank you very much David, it's been a pleasure, I'm sure I'll be popping back in from time to time.

I bleed Ford Blue and always will. I admit I've owned 2 GM (cough cough) products, a Buick GS and a small block Vega (I even thought about getting another Vega and dropping a Windsor in it just to piss off the bowtie boys lol) I've been trolling both those forums you mentioned and I already like LMC. Thanks.

I've had a 66, 67,68 and 69 mustang in my life from the day I turned 16 (37 years ago lol). I was gifted the 66, then bought a 68, and traded the 66 for a 72 F250 with a 360. Pulled the 360 and dropped in a TP 427, I still miss that truck to this day, and should never had let it go (especially the engine). I haven't decided for sure where I'm going with the 74 F100 shortbed, first thoughts are still drop it with a stout Windsor. But I have toy'ed with the pre-runner idea as well, we shall see. You are definitely a huge asset to this forum Ridge, thank you. When or if I miss the Mach, I'll pop back in and see what's up here. :)

Not that older haha. 74 dentside shortbed with a 390. I'll end up dropping it, and throwing in a stout Windsor. It's amazing how much cheaper stuff for it is when compared to stang parts.

So I decided it was time for a change. I let the Mach1 go and picked up a new project, a 74 F100 shortbed with a 390. So off to the truck forums I go. But I couldn't leave without saying goodbye and thanking you guys. This is a great forum and I wish you all the best. Randy.

I sold my Mach and bought a older F100... Does that count?

That stuff works pretty well, after soaking and cleaning be prepared to paint, as parts will "flash rust" fairly quickly.

Well thanks for the replys guy's, I'll find out in a couple weeks if I'm gonna have to part with it. The brutal 8k estimate is about what I kinda figured, after seeing some badly rusting cars going for 3k+. I'd sell it with the original engine but being its disassembled, and what I have in it, I don't think it would add enough to the sale price of the car to make me feel better lol. Besides I can always drop it into a 1/4 mile toy later. Thanks again guys.

Repo fenders don't have very crisp lines, I've seen people graft in sections of there original fenders to make the repos look better.

So unfortunately due to some health/financial issues I might have to sell the love of my life. It's a 69 M code Mach 1 California car with very little rust, 1 spot on the lower door, and on both lower rear quarters. The rad support and both front aprons need to be replaced, I have the new aprons. Engine is out of the car and because of the the work done to it I'm probably going to keep it, FMX in the car but needs to be rebuilt. The only other thing missing is the A/C system (compressor, condenser, evap, dryer, and lines) There are a couple of pics in the gallery (And so it begins By Rsmach1)the car is pretty straight. There are no cars within 200 or more miles from me other than a shell for sale (for 15k seems crazy to me) so I'd just like some input from you guys. Thanks, Randy. Edit looking to see what some of you have paid for "project cars"

I'm with latoracing mini lites as used in the Trans Am cars, next it's hard to beat the looks of Magnum 500's. Also like the ol school Centerline auto drags.

I'd use an air saw.

Lokar cable, look at this one https://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-sp1502u or this from eBay http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?isRefine=true&_nkw=230914623202&ssPageName=GSTL&_mwBanner=1

A vacuum pump https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760152 Or you can just convert to manual disc's as I'm doing.

I'd probably look at QuickTime, from what I've heard they have very tight tolerances, and are the easiest to fit. They use a 157t fly and 10.5" clutch. Since your going 600 I'm guessing you're gonna have some torque, I'd steer clear of aluminum bells. JMHO

+1 with 1969_Mach1, depending on how many miles are on the distributor and it's overall shape, it might best to rebuild/replace it.

Edit from my original post. Mechanical advance @ 2000rpm should be 19 1/2 to 24 1/2°.

I tend to agree with what's been said, as long as you don't plan on stuffing it hard into corners. Just check them well for cracks, especially along the framerail, this is where mine started to crack at the rear, and where my brother's sheared while braking hard.

Did nobody read the OP's original post??? With only 4° mechanical advance @ 3000rpm even if he sets his initial at 14° he'll only have 18°total at 3k, it should be all in by then at roughly 34°. So before we try and set up timing, why don't we figure out why his centrifugal is not working properly.