det0326

Put a 35 ohm resistor in series with the fuel sender wire to ground and adjust the regulator to get a fuel reading of half a tank. Assuming all your sender units temp, oil, and fuel are correct ohm range you should be good. 

1969-Mach1 you are right, squeaks are very hard to find sometimes. As I said my would squeak while turning the steering wheel.  Would also do it some when bouncing but I think it was because the wheels were turning slightly when being bounced. I chased this problem off and on dor weeks. could not put my hand on any component and say for sure this is it. Finally disconnected the CPP steering box and was definitely coming from the box internals.  
VID_20170712_150302 (6).mp4

sorry been away, yes like the first pic.

I have an AOD in my 69. I went overboard with it by putting in the 4R70W gears and like to have never got it to shifting correctly. (never do that again)
IMHO if you are going to swap to and overdrive I would use the 4R70W and Baugmann controller and u can program the shifts where you want them. It is a much better and stronger  transmission in stock form. The only added cost would be the controller.  If I had to do it over that is certainly what I would do. My .002

The yahoo that painted mine did it in body color too.  That yahoo is me unfortunately. 

I made my own using one from a 91 mustang.  Modified the throttle end and also made my own geometry correction plate for the FiTech  TBI.
Works great, checked TV pressure and everything in spec's.
 
Dave 

From looking at the tire wear it appears to have to much negative camber and looking at the eccentric bolts it appears that they are in the most negative position. 
As anyone put shims in the upper control arm.
Dave

Randy we will tell you all the secrets of the ford engines when you tell us the trade secret to get a new wire thru an existing grommet.  LOL  couldn't resist.    
 
Dave

This video is an earlier fastback but should be about the same. Scroll to bottom for video.
 
http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=69-70&cat=interior∏=one_piece_headliners

most of the time u can lower the back of the hood down by loosening the three apron/hinge  bolts on each side  and get someone to push up at the front of the hood and hold it while you tighten the bolts up. 
 
Dave

The hole with blue arrow is a clip inside the door that holds the wire harness that goes  to the door panel light. The lower two screws holds the end of the door weather strip. 
 
Dave

most of the time u can lower the back of the hood down by loosening the three apron/hinge  bolts on each side  and get someone to push up at the front of the hood and hold it while you tighten the bolts up. 
 
Dave

Yes Raven I experienced the same thing as you. I just replaced them with 5/16-18 fender bolts. 
 
Dave

I am installing the FiTech TBI  and going to use the timing control feature.  I know that I will have to use a two wire distributor.  I have read on different forums and this one included that the aftermarket distributors are not that great so I am trying to source a original ford distributor.  I have a 1991 351w from a bronco that was a EFI and I have read that the distributor shaft on the efi are a little longer below the gear than the carburetor engines don't know if that is true are not.  I could use an older 351w distributor with aftermarket magnetic pickup if the shafts are the same length, does anyone know if the lengths are different or not? If they are different  then is there maybe first generation efi distributors that could be converted to magnetic pickup. 
 
Thanks Dave

Thanks a bunch Brian that helps a lot. It appears that the end at the top is tucked under the interior quarter trim is that correct.
 
Dave

Can some one snap me a pic of this area? Trying to figure out how it terminates at the quarter window area.  1969
 
Thanks in advance
 
Dave

For those of us that have no idea what EPSA is my be a short run down would be in order.
I have no idea what it is......Will it flush my toilet faster?

Not shore what the TPS would have to do with the transmission controller please explain how it mite interfere?
 
I dont care how good someone tells you a carb is it is still not FI
Carbs are 100+ year old tech that has changed very little.
cars have been using FI from 1976 on so its not that new in itself but it has come a long ways.. 

That is one of the mounting slots for AC/heater box
 
The other Dave

Ray I like your sense of humor. If I am ever up your way I will look you up and we will go to the local bar and have a few beers on me.
 
Dave

Ray I like your sense of humor. If I am ever up your way I will look you up and we will go to the local bar and have a few beers on me.
 
Dave

I am installing the FiTech TBI  and going to use the timing control feature.  I know that I will have to use a two wire distributor.  I have read on different forums and this one included that the aftermarket distributors are not that great so I am trying to source a original ford distributor.  I have a 1991 351w from a bronco that was a EFI and I have read that the distributor shaft on the efi are a little longer below the gear than the carburetor engines don't know if that is true are not.  I could use an older 351w distributor with aftermarket magnetic pickup if the shafts are the same length, does anyone know if the lengths are different or not? If they are different  then is there maybe first generation efi distributors that could be converted to magnetic pickup. 
 
Thanks Dave

I with jjstang   My neutral/reverse switch is in the floor shifter.
 
Dave

I have never installed a headliner before so I am looking for tips on what to do and especially what not to do. 
I have the headliner in the car centered front to back and side to side.  It looks really good so for, I have not glued anything yet i just have folder binders around the pinch weld holding it. My question before I totally screw it up is how to do the area around the windsheild A pillar area and the sailpanel area, it just seems to want to bunch up and not lay down right. Will this work itself out once I start gluing it down or do you have to make cuts in particular areas to make it lay down nicely? If it has to be cut I surly need some instructions.  I have the wire retainers hooked on the rear bow and have it stretched and as I said all that looks nicely. My problems are the two areas I mentioned. I did a search and didn't find anything specific to my questions.  Also what kind of glue is recommended? 
 
Thanks Dave 
 
By the way this is a 1969 mach 1

This is a link to a thread on VMF forum.  Don't know how accurate the listing is.
 
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/355048-complete-list-tire-sizes-heights-widths-long.html
 
Dave