1969vert

I stripped a 69 mach 1 and it had stainless trim around all pedals.. To bad almost everything was destroyed from rust..

I had a 4 1/2 cowl scoop before the nine scoop...cleared 351w vr jr.2" spacer and nitrous plate and had room for a air filter A pic was added below of the scoop

Here is my Nine style scoop in action..

Its not that hard to convert brakes and steering..Lots of parts out there..

It should be ok.. But just to be sure leave the doors closed while its up in the air.. doors help keep it from flexing.. Also do one side at a time if you can ( floors ) .. I had to replace torque boxes and inner frame rails on mine..it came from UTAH salty roads..

I might have some extras laying aroung if you are near texas...

Most autolite 2100 carbs I have seen have been 1/8th pipe on the carb side...and 5/16 barbed on the hose side...

I would build it if I could get it for a good price...less 70s vs 69 verts...

Yes..It would get closer to the spring (1/2") ...1/4" gap between the tire and spring is a little tight..when you take a corner the tire will flex and might rub the spring.. A 295 tire is 11.6" are you sure it will fit in between the lip and springs? I have run 10.5" and they were tight ( with rolled fender lips ) I would look at the 275s

With the 295s on the 5" backspacing how much room do you have between the leaf springs and the tire? the 295 should be around a 26" tire height so it wont hit the wheel well..If the tires you have pictured are on the rims you are talking about it looks like you need to suck them back in at least 1"..

I run 15x10 with 6.5 backspacing with a 1/2 spacer on a stock rear end with 28" x 10" slick no rubbing

Adjust screws for the highest vacuum...around 1.5 turns out...it would be better with a wide band in the exhaust...you could really tune it well...there is alot to do to tune a holley for idle performance and fuel economy..but it can be done ...to answer your question...vacuum sounds fine but alot of factors decide what it will pull at idle..every engine is different..i have a 427w with a solid roller and get 12 hg on it at idle..

I know in Texas a lap belt is all that is needed.. My coupe has a shoulder belt and lap belt.. It is attatched over the quarter window.. But my convertible has lap belt only.. No attatchement point for a shoulder belts..I would check you state laws though... they might be picky ..and require both..

I have a rubber gasket i made for my gas cap... 1.52 60ft times tends to splash a little gas on the track after a good launch..

Gasket sheet from oreillys...cut my own also..

had to grind around the oil pump for my old 393w

Just make sure the 66 has a 6 bolt bellhousing...then all will fit...if for some reason it is still a 5 bolt bellhousing it might be a early 289...still will work but harder to find parts for..but 6 bolt sky is the limit...enjoy..

Yes it can come out...its alot of work...replace oli pump drive rods that way...

Well just got back from beaumont...Me and my wife had fun there..I thought I would be the only 69 droptop there but mid day saturday another one showed up could not find the owner..he was selling it..lots of nice 69s so many R codes and 1 boss nine.....

If it runs good and tuned right...its worth fixing .... plug it or replace the bowl...its hard to get a carb right...when switching brands..easy fix though..

Lip down..convertible...lip up coupe and fastback...i think..anyone else?

Granada... got them on my car...work fine stopping at 121 in the quarter

Tear it down and at least tank it or clean it the best you can..metal will kill bearings and the motor..it is not to much work to inspect the crank ..just might be a simple rebuild..or could be distroyed..( crank and such) open it up if you can..

You need to put it on a lift and clean everything up..then start it and see where it is coming from..but my pan leaks a little also...I'm all cork on my gaskets...

I have a Chicago electric.. a really old one before they got cheap..a220v 185amp that holds a 10lb spool they haven't sold one like it in years..they were made in Italy.. one good thing about a 220v everyone that wants to borrow it needs a 110v.. most people don't have the plug to run a bigger welder..I have welded with small 110v boxes and 220v and i prefer the bigger boxes..better welds and a longer duration during welds..I also have a Chicago electric plasma cutter ..best tool I have ever bought for metal work.. only thing..get a good ground..use frayed wire on your ground cable..its like thousands of contact points for a ground...( pinch it in between your work and clamp) u tube it.. ( as seen in the Lexington.. Boiler repair shop..we fix anything from cracked ice to broken hearts)