TonyV8

Hi I fitted a Wilwood front and rear disk set up (power booster already fitted) and noticed a big improvement my car actually stops now! Got it all from these guys who were really helpful! http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=27976

Sorry to anyone who looked at my post earlier as I had deleted the text from both posts ...doh!

Hi, I am considering purchasing a FAST EZ-EFI Fuel injection kit (30227 KIT) for my 69 351 Mach 1 Mustang. I am looking for improve fuel consumption (UK gas prices!), easier hot starting and smoother running, I realise I will not get any real performance gains. The car is currently running a 600cfm Edelbrock performer carb. I Believe it is not quite the easy fit they make out as will have to replace the tank sender unit with one with a return pipe and need to weld a O" sensor bung in the exhaust. Will also need to wire in the fuel pump to the oil pressure switch so in the event of an accident the pump will ultimately stop. Just wodnering if this will make starting difficult as pump will not start till oil pressure up thru cranking engine. Any thoughts appreciated.

sorry double post

Shaun, Looks good. You can see in my picture that the reel is mounted further back so sits inside the rear side trim which keeps it our of the way, but requires a slot cutting in the panel. Like you I could not use US belts, but I could have used static belts or a full harness set up but the latter would have rendered the back seats useless.

Hi Mike, That's great sound like you are well clued up and have a plan in place so scrub the Dynacorn option! My Mustang requuired new bonnet ,wings, front panel, boot, rear panel, rear boot floor rear inner wheel arches one rear panel and passenger floor and a lot of metal work around the front cowl. I hope the build goes well and a Happy New Year to you as well.

Hi, Welcome to the forum from a fellow UK Mustang owner. Phil King in the UK is a good guy to contact if you haven't already. Phil has rebuilt some complete basket cases. http://www.fordmustangrestoration.com/ I do not know if you have priced up panels yet but by the time you have paid the shipping costs and import taxes they are going to really add up. Might be worth checking out the cost of these vs a Dynacorn shell if the roof really is one of the few salvageable parts. There are a few people in the UK who can source you a shell I believe. Tony

A few thoughts: If you can 'pump' the pedal several times and the pedal comes up this could mean air in the system so brakes need bleeding. Have you checked the hose from the power booster is not leaking and is connected properly to the engine, though it does look in good condition. Try jacking the car up and then getting someone to try the brakes while you get hold of the wheels and try and turn them whilst they gently apply the brakes. If you can find a wide open space you can try driving the car bringing it to a stop as best you can then re-trying this but swithing off the engine first and then try bringing the car to a stop as the vacuum in the power booster will not without the engine running. If it is now worse then suspect the power booster. If it is worse then your power booster is probably good. Have a look at the discs are they smooth (check both sides) or have ridges and/or are pitted - should be smooth.

Hi Flanders, These look really good and I would have gone with these, but unfortunately in the UK (and Europe) seat belts have to have an 'E approval' tab on them which unfortunately these do not even though I'm sure they would pass the annual Motor Vehicle Test he have on all cars over three years old and registered after 1960 but they may check and fail the vehicle on this. The good part about the drop link is that they look part of the original belt so should pass. Not sure about our Australian cousins.

Hi I have been suffering with the front seat belts almost cutting into both the driver and passenger's necks on my 69 Mustang Mach 1 They are inertia reel belts with the top mount above the door. Having tried several solutions I finally found a posting buried on one of the classic mustang websites (sorry forgot which one) refering to a seatbelt drop link that cures this common problem so just thought I would share this with the forum in case anyone else has this issue. I mananged to locate a drop link here; http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/st...Belt-Drop-Link I bought a pair and shipping was reasonable and they arrived in under a week, total cost AUS $109.08. Fitting was easy apart from having to remove the original top mount though I could have possibly slid it down inside the rear panel but I thought it safer to remove by cutting a slot with an angle grinder and slipping it off. The belts still work fine and are much more comfortable, not cheap but well worth it!!

Hi, I have the seats from a '67 Fastback (I think) in my '69 Mach 1. Unfortunately the car is having some work done but if you are not desperate I can take some pictures but it could be 3-4 weeks. Mime have a T handle sticking up from behind he middle of the two seats. You can see them well at least the handle 52 seconds into this video Tony

How about this guy for on the limit driving on closed roads

Hi, I have purchased some 69 mustang disc spindles which means the mounting holes need re-drilling and tapping for the bolts in the Wilwood kit and I know they are not as strong but I'm running a mild engine and it's more for cruising around in an enjoying rather than racing. I got that out of my system doing trackdays in a Caterham 7 which had a power to weight ration of nearly 500bhp per ton so it was quick!

I thins it's me. I just cannot get my head around the fact that part of the piston does not sit behind the pad which just seems wrong to me and I know NOT getting my head round this is costing me $$$ but I like the look and the overall quality of the Wilwood set up so I'm sure I am going to have a great set of brakes.

Flash meet deto326: thumbup1: