Powershift

The question is WHY do you want to spin a V8 to 7-8K? They can make a TON of power in lower rpms, which is their main advantage. Building, and spinning, a V8 motor to that rpm range very often will significantly cut down the engine's life too. Not to mention, when on the street will you even get the chance to spin the motor that high?

I love the direction of this build. Classic styling, with modern features. PERFECT. I'm curious to hear how your power steering issues are resolved, and what you guys think of the steering feel when done. I know the P/S has been a major hurdle with nearly every other Coyote motor swap. I know Ford has also done a GREAT job at doing what they can to help.

I love the gauge setup!!!!!

You can do a "pusher" fan, or a "puller", if that is a concern. Plus, with some of the slim line fans out there (like SPAL) they hardly stand out at all.

I sold my running, beautiful condition, Cleveland for $1,200..... carb to oil pan, complete. I wouldn't pay that much for one which needs a total rebuild, CJ or not.

Maybe ditch the standard fan setup, and switch to electric? They cool better, and take the extra load off your water pump pulley.

I can honestly say this is DISGUSTING. What a way to totally destroy an iconic rear view of a classic body style....

Very sad to see the pics, and hear the news. Looks to have been a beautiful car, with great modifications. I'm really glad you weren't injured. Best of luck in the rebuild.

COOL build. Looking forward to updates. Best of luck!!

I like the look of these... http://www.jmeenterprises.com/69dash.shtml

chillininnh.... looks GREAT! What did you use?

I just want to know what you have as far as a motor to make 700 at the wheels! :blink:

Could have also been a guy like me... who doesn't like the console, or woodgrain. I already removed my Mach's console, and will eventually swap out to standard black door panels. You have to keep in mind the age of these cars, and the possibility of owners changing stuff. But, as mentioned... it may not be a real Mach too.

Never been a fan of the electric cutouts, and heard of failures with them. The motors fail, and leave them either stuck open or closed. I'd say just have a proper exhaust system built with the sound you like, and leave it.

Youtube has about anything you can think of...

SUCH a beautiful car!!!!! :w00t:

The car looks mean as HELL! Nice job!

Great looking car. VERY clean.

Lots of good info on Modern Driveline's site.... http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/classic_swaps.htm

Were those Monroe-Max Air shocks an aide for sagging springs? It's normally why they are used, unless it's to gain clearance for wheels/tires which don't fit. Maybe a new set of springs, and some quality shocks, would be best? The shocks shouldn't be used to set ride heights. Springs set the height.

Keep in mind many of the 4 and 5 leaf springs out there don't have very accurate weight ratings (if any at all). Don't put all your trust in spring weight with how many leafs are in the pack. Maier Racing's leaf springs are designed more like a control arm, with more leafs being towards the front perch. This helps prevent axle wrap on hard acceleration. Their springs are also TRUE to the weight rating. A 200lb rear leaf spring from Maier really is a 200lb rated spring, and their 165lb springs are their actual rating too. As mentioned, the optimum setup with this type of spring is the addition of a Panhard Bar. I've done a bunch of research in the build for my Mach. Short of doing a completely different (aftermarket) suspension geometry the leaf spring, with a Panhard bar, can REALLY be made to work well. Good shocks are a crucial part of the equation too. I've already added Maier's 200 rear springs and Bilstein shocks, with a Panhard Bar to be installed next. I've felt a HUGE improvement with simply the new springs, stock style rear shackles with rubber bushings, Urethane front bushings, and the Bilsteins. I even ditched my Shelby Under Rider bars, per Mike Maeir's suggestion. He KNOWS what he is talking about, and it shows in my car's performance. ANY tire and wheel combo which sticks out of the wheel well housing will run the risk of tire rub, unless you run something like air shocks. But, as mentioned, air shocks are going to provide a horrible ride. They are a 1960's fix to the crappy selection of wheel offsets and tires at that time. There is no real excuse for it in this day and age.

Your BEST option... replace the worn out springs, get new stock length shackles, and a good set of shocks. Don't use extended shackles, or air shocks. Those are simply bandaids for worn out parts.

You could always go with a Mid Length header. They are better than shortys, and don't have the clearance issues of full lengths. I got JBA Mid Length headers. They aren't cheap, but they are pretty damn nice!

Yep, 30k is probably too much. Unless the car really is nearly flawless. Mid 20K range might be more realistic. Keep in mind, I got my rotisserie restored '70 Mach for 26K.

HA HA! I have out of state customers who wander into the store. They almost all say "Sucks you guys can't have real guns here". It's then I point out the weapons on my store wall.... AR15s, AK47s, Benelli M4s, 338 Lapua sniper rifles, etc. Yes, we have dumb laws. But, a Bullet Button/Raddlock isn't all that bad. Here is my shop's Facebook page. You tell me, does it look like we can't get "good guns" LOL https://m.facebook.com/TactiCoolGunsGearInc?id=428860017135140&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FTactiCoolGunsGearInc&_rdr