Kevin427

Centerforce in my car works great.

I would do hydraulic. I put one in my car and its one of the best modifications I did. really cleans up the area. headers have more clearance and it feels like a new car clutch. I used 1 from Modern Driveline with an internal throw out bearing/slave cylinder combo.

I had the same problem with mine. I purchased the second set from CJ Pony parts and they were perfect.

How about a charcoal canister mounted under the fender?

If you dig it do it. it's your car and you can do as you wish. besides it's not something that can't be put back with a repop hood in the future if you want.

Shep69, I think they are pretty much dictated by the rear side marker lights and go straight forward.

Mike, that's going to be a tight squeeze. With a non stock rear it will most likely be a trial and error deal. My guess is 15x10 with about 4" backspacing. I know on the stock 1969 rear width a 15x10 with 5 inch backspace fits with 275/60/15. I assume you know these tires are quite sticky on a street car (if it's a street car) and will throw a lot of stones into the quarter panels? I took mine of due to the paint getting chipped up. Kevin

Sean, I have a combo close to what you are looking to build. I used a new timing cover from Autozone for a 1969 351W and an Edelbrock aluminum water pump for a 1970 351W since the outlet is on the driver side. then I got a Champion rad to fit a 1970 Mustang to match up with the water pump. worked out great. I used a molded lower hose from a Ford truck that I cut down to fit, the flex hoses work OK but are kind of cheesy and look unprofessional. the stainless flex hoses are nice though.

Hello, anyone running the Edelbrock air gap dual quad setup on a 351W? I need to know if it fits under a stock hood and if so will a Cobra oval air cleaner fit as well? Thanks

Do it. They work great

I have the 7/8" master that Wilwood makes for the mustang. Pedal travel is very good now. I will check out the EBC pads on their website.

Hello, I have a 69 Mach1 with a 427 Windsor and 4 speed trans. due to the cam profile I removed the power brakes and installed a Wilwood master cylinder. I am running stock type front brakes with drilled and slotted rotors and stock 10" drums on the back. Everything is new. The pads I installed are stock type organics from Autozone. I have very good pedal but could use some more stopping "grip" This is a weekend nice weather cruise type of car. do you think I just need to go to a metallic pad or possibly ceramic, or even a set of EBC's Thanks

They fit on 8" rims no problem. I am running the Mickey Thompson's on 8" wide Cragar S/S's

I put one in my 69 Mach and tried to use a modified stock one but it didn't work. I ran into clearance issues with the bracing in the hood. I just made up 2 L shaped brackets that go from the rad support to the top bolts of the fan Shroud. It looks less cluttered on top of the rad.

I see a new one from CJ Pony parts is $780 my guess its worth about half of a new one.

I would take a black shirt

I had mine done with a satin clear. It has about 30% flattening agent in it. Looks great and is much more durable than the correct flat black. But then I'm not a 100% purist kind of guy.

Cragars never go out of style

You should check out KBS Black top in satin. Did my engine compartment with it and I can honestly say it looks great. Probably the best spray paint I have ever used. It's about $23 a can and worth every penny

Just my 2 cents but I really don't like cowl hoods on Mustangs. My buddy just bought a Thunderbolt style fiberglass hood for his 67 Mustang from Crites and it sure is a nice piece. The Shelby louvers sure would look terrific not to mention if they are open it would help keep thing cooler under the hood.

I ordered a set of Flowtech gaskets today. I will install them this weekend. the reviews on these look good. I looked at the RemFlex and I think the port opening may be a little small for my Victor Jr heads?? A guy I work with recommended putting a heavy duty ratchet strap between the 2 headers and pulling them in, sounds like that may work too.

I have a 215-70-15 on 7" Weld wheels on mine and they are taller than the 235-60's with no issues at all. I also had a 70 Boss 302 with 275-50-15 on Magnum 500's with no issues. sounds like your alignment is off or something is bent/twisted?

I just installed a pair of Hooker # 6901-2HKR Stainless steel headers on my 69 Mach 351W. I purchased these to replace a set of the same Hookers but in mild steel. the steel ones fit very good, with just minor clearance issues at the floor board just in front of the trans cross-member. The new ones fit terribly. They are right up against the sides of the frame rails and the flanges to the head seem off just a bit. I installed them with Percy's aluminum gaskets and the right one sealed good but the left one leaks out the front and rear ports at the end bolts. I heat cycled them a few times going over the bolts each time and they still leak pretty good. Any one else run into these issues with Hooker's. I figures I would spend the extra bucks on a set that should last the life of the car and the clearance issues I can deal with but the leak I can't. any suggestions on gaskets? Thanks

Here are a few pics of mine. I could have spent a little more time smoothing them out. There aren't perfect but my car is a driver that gets shown once in a while not a show car. It's a little dusty in the pics but shines nicely when wiped down. Also i used this fan controller for the dual fans. it is a nice piece and easy to install. http://derale.com/products/electric-fans/fan-controllers/high-amp-controllers/7-25-standard-thermal-fan-clutch2013-10-18-11-52-51874872-detail

I have the Champion 4 row rad in my car. I took 2 upper rad mounts and cut them where it goes over the rad and welded them together, filed, and sanded them smooth so it looks like original then had it powder coated black. I ordered 2 sets of upper rad rubbers from CJ's and cut them to fit the bracket. looks like original but wider. I will post a pic later.