Had a wreck

[sleek98 12]

I ended up rear ending a newer Tahoe the other night, car in front of them decided to turn the last second and went from 50 to a dead stop. I was 30 or so feet back but the 4 wheel drums just couldnt dotn her in time. I went under the tahoe so the only damange to them was the bumper cover needs resprayed. Katy however is not looking so hot anymore.

 

I have the car insured for 16k, so I am not sure if they will total it or fix it. It needs an entire new front clip, I think the frame rails are fine, but will likely need to be tweaked back into place. Also need new a/c condenser, ac lines, radiator, core support, shock tower aprons. (the dynacorn 1 piece replacements held up like a champ)

 

Here is my question, If they decide to fix it how will the paint matching work? The fron end was resprayed in 1989 but the rest of the car still had factory paint. Does anyone still spray single stage or will the entire car need a respray with a base coat clear coat?

 

Anything else I should mention to the adjuster when they come out to look at it? I have never had an accident before so this is all new to me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rwcstang 201]

ouch, glad your okay. sucks about ur car getting recked... :( 

[sleek98 12]

We are fine, and I am happy to say the recaro car seat did its job for my son.

 

Hurts more emotionally after so many years with her from my senior prom, to getting married, to my sons first ride.

 

Just want to make sure I am covering my basis when the adjuster shows up. If they fix her I want to make sure it is done right.

[RPM 1,190]

Well, that does suck big time. Since I can't view your pics here at work (this really isn't work, as I've worked before and this ain't work) so I'll give you some experience from being an auto adjuster for 18 years. But first, I hope you don't hold the adjusters job against me :)

 

Most damages can be repaired, so the deciding factor on totaling a car is the damages to value ratio, and knowing the salvage value. Some start totalling at 50% depending on additional repairs and salvage value. Based on your damage description, your car can easily be repaired. 

 

Based on your paint before the crash, no insurance company will blend your paint nor paint it complete. Single stage paints are still available. PPG doesn't make a metallic in single stage, don't know about the others.

 

Documentation of why your car is worth more than the average is paramount in receiving the most money you can.

 

As they say in Vegas, good luck!

[sleek98 12]

I know it can be repaird, its just about how much will it cost and what parts will be used, junk yard parts or remanufactured parts.

 

I am mostly worried about the paint, as a few years ago the entire front frame, shocktowers and aprons were replaced due to rust. So its not the first round of tearing it down.

 

I don't honestly expect them to repaint the entire car, you can hope right?, but what do I do when the body shop cannot match the paint and it looks bad when its finished am I just hosed?

 

The insurance company already agreed that the value of the car is set and there is no disputing that.

 

Thanks for the replies.

[MikeStang 247]

FEw options here.

 

1. Let them total it then ask what it will cost to buy it back.... Since you know your getting 16k if they total it then politely ask that if its totaled you would like to know what its going to cost to buy it back.... probably around 5-6G maybe, that should leave ya 9-10k to fix her back up.

 

2. I cant see your pics but I know from Exp that paint can be matched and blended so damn close you cant tell the difference, take for instance my car.... Its PPG House of Color Lime time Green, the first guy that painted it did so in 3 stages... the main structure first, then a week later he did the doors, then a week after he did the hood and trunk and then he Died b4 he panted the upper valance and rock shield and end caps... 1 Month later I had another guy paint the remaining pieces and all he knew was that there were 2 coats of Orion Silver base and then 3 coats of Limetime Green and 3 coats of clear... His matched Perfectly..... Now just last week the same guy did my new hood almost a year later and it matches

[fvike 173]

Dammit! Another one bites the dust! I'm sorry for you, I know EXACTLY how you feel. Here's an option dough:

 

http://roadstershop.com/product/subframe/1964-72-mustang-ifs-subframe/

 

I strongly considered this after my wreck, but my TCP suspension and rack was undamaged, so I went with the Dynacorn front end.

[shaun071 62]

They most probably won't repaint the entire car. However, maybe see if you can do a deal with the repair shop to do a full repaint. I did this after hitting a kangaroo in one of my cars. There was some other damage and a couple of hundred extra to get it fixed while it was in the shop.

[Guillaume69 150]

Here's my own experience:

- car value before crash: $36,500 (sort of low)

- Estimated cost repair: $19,500 (kinda high)

 

Car totaled. After that, it's trench warfare...

 

- car value after crash: $22,000 (the bastards auctioned it in my back to get this value...)

 

I flatly refused to let go of my freshly restored GT, so I kept it and they will pay $36,5 - $22 = $14,500. It's matter of how much you will spend to repair it.

 

Crash happened in March. Other guy rear-ended me while I was waiting at a traffic light. Declared 100% responsible. They still haven't paid one cent.

 

G

[Rsmach1 71]

Sorry sleek, that really sucks, body shops can still get single stage paints for sure, and and should be able match it pretty good.

[RPM 1,190]

First thing I'd do is teardown the front end. You'll be guessing on damages till it's done. Paint looks better than I expected.

[1969_Mach1 333]

+1 with RPM.  The damage usually looks worse with bent up sheet metal parts.  After the front end is torn down the damage won't look nearly as bad as you initially thought.

[sleek98 12]

Well I got a call from the adjuster late afternoon saying he was close to my house and wanted to stop by. Met him and he said that my insurance company takes 90% of value to total it so they will fix it. Sounds like thy will pay to paint the doors forward, so talking with the guy who has restored a couple cars for my dad and friend, he also put the dynacorn pieces in this car when they rusted out a few yeatrs ago. He said if I want to pay to reshoot the rear quarters and trunk I would be better off going that way with a base/clear instead of a blended single stage.

 

The process so far was easier than expected. The adjuster was pretty nice and said that he wanted my body shop to give him an estimate and then if he agrees that it is reasonable we can proceed.

 

I am pretty happy that they are going to fix it to be honest. I really wanted to be able to give this car to my son when he gets older.

[sleek98 12]

Dammit! Another one bites the dust! I'm sorry for you, I know EXACTLY how you feel. Here's an option dough:

 

http://roadstershop.com/product/subframe/1964-72-mustang-ifs-subframe/

 

I strongly considered this after my wreck, but my TCP suspension and rack was undamaged, so I went with the Dynacorn front end.

 

 

That thing is sweet, If I wanted to put a coyote in there this would be the ticket.

[RPM 1,190]

Well that certainly is good news.

[Gomach1 12]

Take this for what it's worth, stay away from base clear. I painted mine base clear and have regretted it ever since! As we all know minor things happen in the garage, and driving them, base clear is a pain to touch up and make look right. Where as single stage is simple, slightly overfil the area, wet sand, polish and your done. Every time I get a new chip I dread it! Think about it, looks like you drive it as much as you can, as most of us on here do. Don't let your painter talk you into doing something deep down you don't want to do, that's what happened to me! Remember he has the resources to do the the touch up repairs so it's no problem for him when the time comes.

DuPont makes a single stage called Chroma-one that has a shine that is as close to a base clear as you can get!

[barnett468 418]

.

paint it base with clear.

 

use a ford tooling repo hood . . tell the body shop it wil likely take 8 - 12 hours to make it line up with the repo fenders and headlite doors so they can include that on their bill.

 

find some nos headlight doors or perfect originals and use those . . get a price for them to give to your body shop so they can include that on the bill.

[Rsmach1 71]

Dammit! Another one bites the dust! I'm sorry for you, I know EXACTLY how you feel. Here's an option dough:

 

http://roadstershop.com/product/subframe/1964-72-mustang-ifs-subframe/

 

I strongly considered this after my wreck, but my TCP suspension and rack was undamaged, so I went with the Dynacorn front end.

I've been eyeballing that front frame, looks really nice.

[Rsmach1 71]

As for what type of paint it all depends on what you want, if you are looking for a period correct stock looking paint job go with a single stage, if you want a deeper modern look go base/clear.

[Max Power 74]

Well I got a call from the adjuster late afternoon saying he was close to my house and wanted to stop by. Met him and he said that my insurance company takes 90% of value to total it so they will fix it. Sounds like thy will pay to paint the doors forward, so talking with the guy who has restored a couple cars for my dad and friend, he also put the dynacorn pieces in this car when they rusted out a few yeatrs ago. He said if I want to pay to reshoot the rear quarters and trunk I would be better off going that way with a base/clear instead of a blended single stage.

 

The process so far was easier than expected. The adjuster was pretty nice and said that he wanted my body shop to give him an estimate and then if he agrees that it is reasonable we can proceed.

 

I am pretty happy that they are going to fix it to be honest. I really wanted to be able to give this car to my son when he gets older.

Good advice in here. I would add a disc brake conversion before giving the car to anyone else.

[rwcstang 201]

I agree, full on disc conversion would be best if your going to give that to your son. Best of luck, and glad she's getting fixed! 

[sleek98 12]

 

paint it base with clear.

 

use a ford tooling repo hood . . tell the body shop it wil likely take 8 - 12 hours to make it line up with the repo fenders and headlite doors so they can include that on their bill.

 

find some nos headlight doors or perfect originals and use those . . get a price for them to give to your body shop so they can include that on the bill.

 

Thanks I will let him know.

 

As for what type of paint it all depends on what you want, if you are looking for a period correct stock looking paint job go with a single stage, if you want a deeper modern look go base/clear.

 

Not so much for period correct, going to stay with the factory color but would rather have the more modern (deeper) shine to it.

 

Good advice in here. I would add a disc brake conversion before giving the car to anyone else.

 

That was my next plan when it comes back from the shop.

 

I agree, full on disc conversion would be best if your going to give that to your son. Best of luck, and glad she's getting fixed! 

 

My son is only 2 so he has a long time before he gets it, however this really made me realize that I should have put disks on 5 years ago when I was thinking about it.

[SM69Mach 68]

Sounds like they are going to work with you on this, so that is good to hear.

 

Good luck with the repairs and upgrades.

[Raven R code 281]

Sorry to hear about this. Takes lots of photos and post some progress pics. I know the brake situation all to well. Someone actually took the power brakes off my car and put manual drums on.....power disc are going back on.

[sleek98 12]

Looks like my spot in the shop will be open on Tuesday. I will keep updating this when I get pictures and or news.

 

Thanks

Chris