Gomach1

Take this for what it's worth, stay away from base clear. I painted mine base clear and have regretted it ever since! As we all know minor things happen in the garage, and driving them, base clear is a pain to touch up and make look right. Where as single stage is simple, slightly overfil the area, wet sand, polish and your done. Every time I get a new chip I dread it! Think about it, looks like you drive it as much as you can, as most of us on here do. Don't let your painter talk you into doing something deep down you don't want to do, that's what happened to me! Remember he has the resources to do the the touch up repairs so it's no problem for him when the time comes. DuPont makes a single stage called Chroma-one that has a shine that is as close to a base clear as you can get!

Not my thumbnails!!!

Ditto on rev counters thoughts. next time it does it disconnect distributor vacuum and see if returns to normal if so check vacuum source, if not tap on side of distributor. Not my thumbnails!!!

Do you have this adapter? It moves the sender out about 3"

Possible cracked cap opening up when engine is warm, try running car at night and check for arcing, spray cap with wd40 when running and missing to see if it clears up. You could could also have a plug wire breaking down when warmed up. Also try spraying inside of cap with wd40 and wipe off excess then run, this will eliminate any carbon tracking (doubtful this is problem but you never know)

Ever notice talking oil, is a lot like talking about beer! While almost everyone will agree the best beer is a free one, we won't necessarily buy that one!

AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-40, adds the zinc needed for a flat tappet cam. Just like Brian I change it once a year whether it needs it or not! So it's not a waste of money! The main thing is use a good quality full synthetic, 'dino' oils do not provide the protection or stability of a synthetic.

I'd like info on this too, I made a crude one that just has a couple of bends in it. A good picture of one with a ruler next to would help

My car is Candyapple Red, Gold with white stripes, white interior (stripe delete on seats and also does not have the red floor mat inserts). And personally haven't seen another like it. So the chart is not entirely correct. Haven't got a Marty to confirm my configuration, but I am the 2nd owner (bought it in 1984), so as with anything from back then, if you asked you could order anyway you wanted.

Well I am full of it so to speak, don't remember the bracket!

Pic 3, and 1" lowering blocks out back

It's not a bracket, it just plugs into a hole in the dash above the switch. If my memory hasn't failed me the dash is 2 layers of metal, at the ignition switch location there is a gap for the light to shine into and that's also why the bezel nut has holes around its circumference, to allow the light to pass thru. I'll try to get a photo this evening when I get home, don't know if it will be possible though. If I find out the installation is different than stated I'll be the first to admit I'm 'full of s&$?' , wouldn't be the first time!

Just had to replace the bulb in mine last weekend, this is one of those feel around installs, the hole for it right above the ignition switch.

I use AMSOIL Z-ROD, it has the extra zinc in it that is needed for flat tappet cam protection. I will never use a petroleum again in anything I own.

I know I'm a little late to this topic but I ran into the same problem on my car. The weatherstrip I took off my car I had originally bought back around 1985 from Tony Branda Shelby ( that's all that was available back then as I recall),and it fit great. This new junk they sell is just awful. The area in question at the base of the flipper window meeting up with the interior panel is too narrow on the Carpenter junk. I measured my old piece and it was over 1.25" in width at that point, the piece that Carpenter says is from the original mold is only about 1.125" or less. I called Tony Branda and asked who there supplier is, of course it was Carpenter. he said he had some NOS and take off pieces. So I asked him if he would measure the area in question and those pieces were 1.25", then he measured the Carpenter and it was less than 1.125". At this time I asked about fitment problems he new of, the salesman in him said 'no' but in around about way he said there were issues. Then I asked if he new of another supplier, he said there is another place (and right now I cannot remember the name, I just know it's in the southeast somewhere,I will try to dig though receipts to find the name I don't think they have a web sight I googled there name and got a phone number). Anyway I talked to this company and had them measure, they were closer to 1.25" so I ordered them and there close but not quite right, they're also not a one piece unit they have glued on ends. I ended up cutting off a piece of seal from the old ones and glueing it to the bottom of the panel edge with overhang to fill the gap. It looks good and most people don't notice it. I see cars at shows all the time and this is a problem restored cars have a gap, unrestored do not, of the ones I've seen. I will post pics of my install when I get a chance and hopefully I can find the name of the company.