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RPM

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Everything posted by RPM

  1. Hey Mr.CNC, I've got a set of under rides I removed from my mach one that I'll let you have for a song and dance if you like. Let me know. Bob
  2. Welcome aboard! Before and after pics, nice. We see a lot of before and during pics here. Another sports roof! I think we just took the lead :) Bob
  3. Welcome to the forum SBR69! I sure wish mine was a two year build. If "your" mach is anything like mine, any repairs you make will be better than the factory guys did. The only a/m body part I bought was the right front apron from NPD about 15 years ago, and it was fine. Where bouts you located? Good luck with the build. And the spoortsroof count increases :) Bob
  4. I don't think there's a better looking SFC than Tinman. Bob
  5. Nice looking car! You've done a fine job. Bob
  6. Hey det0326, I bought QA1 XM Endura series rod ends. According to their write up, and with the boots covering the rod ends, I think it'll be ok. From the QA1 website: XM Chromoly Steel Series Rod Ends Male Endura Rod Ends For the ultimate in performance rod ends, look no further than QA1’s XM Chromoly Steel Series male rod ends. These heavy duty rod ends are commonly used on 4-link and ladder bars for their strength and durability. XM Series rod ends are completely self-sealing and self-lubricating because of their Nylon/PTFE injection molded race that keeps dirt and debris out. BALL 52100 Bearing Steel Heat Treated Hard Chrome Plated Precision Ground RACE Nylon/PTFE Self-Lubricating Self-Sealing BODY Chromoly Steel Heat Treated Protective Coated for Corrosion Resistance
  7. Rancho Cucamongo? I love that shopping center at (I think) the 15 and 210 with Bass Pro Shop, Lucile's and the Remington. Damn, wish I loved closer. Bob
  8. I went with the 5/8 because of its higher radial strength, and because I went with 3/4" threads. Since I only play an engineer, too much is not enough. Bob
  9. Man, is Texas trying to compete with California for the fruit and nut capital? Bob
  10. Welcome to the forum! Lots of friendly helpful folks here, as long as we get to see your car :) If you use photo shop, follow this guide: you can caption photos directly on photobucket. or you can simply copy the contents of the "IMG" code associated with that picture and paste that entire line here then annotate your pics on this forum. Here is an example: Who doesn't love a Mach One? Credits to BuckeyeDemon. Bob
  11. Welcome Takoarm to the forum. As stated, the AOD is popular, I not know how much HP they can take. Looks like the Cali group is finally making up a good portion here. Were in SoCal are you? Good luck with your build. Make sure to post plenty o' pics. Bob
  12. Very nice work. Sure beats the high cost of crappy repops. The damage mine looks identical to yours. I'm about halfway done. Bob
  13. That looks like a great price on the Eastwood. My last place of employment used a spool to weld stainless. Great welds without having to buy a tig. I don't know anyone who welds alum or stainless on the mig gas mix, 75 argon 25 co2. They all use 100% argon. An extra hidden cost. Bob
  14. Excellent call Cruzzar! That's what I just did on my Audi seats, don't know why I didn't mention it. Bob
  15. Did I miss a prior post on this? I don't recall seeing one recently. My rear seat has been out in the pics in all my posts and I would have posted pics if I knew you needed them. I'm still a day late and a dollar short. Glad you figured it out. Bob
  16. Headroom should be OK with 5" to the roof. I had to chuckle when you mentioned the seat belt bolts, as I thought I'd have to relocate mine. After final fitting I think I'll be fine with the stock location, but they are gonna be tight. I now believe I know why the convertible seat risers are 1" higher. DOH! I'm surprised I didn't install the roll bar door bars before the seats, then discover they interfere :) I seem to be getting better. Bob
  17. Got the passenger seat frame built, and thankfully it was much easier than the driver's side. Not only was the main pivot tube for the seat back a different id than the driver's side, each end hole was different. Typical German over thinking. So glad this step is done. I think the Audi seats fit the car better than the AMG seats in looks and fitment. Not using the 06 Mercedes AMG CLK 63 seats, which are 2" wider than Audi. One issue I had to over come with the Audi seats is the mounting tracks are 2" wider than the Benz seat, and rested on the inner rocker and trans tunnel. Bob
  18. Since the seat riser ads structural strength, I'd make the single front riser out of rectangular tube and tie it into the tunnel, and brace the rear area under the thin 19ga floor pan at the minimum. Making the front riser loop over the tunnel wouldn't hurt either. I feel your pain. Many times I wish I were 5' 10. Bob
  19. Cool video! Nice work on the C4. Great little tranny to rollerise and add discs to. Lots of folks run them behind stroked 460's. They're pretty stout if built right. Bob
  20. RPM

    My '70 Mach

    Been waiting patiently for the stroker/trans install update :) Any news on the cool car? Bob
  21. 200 bucks??? Holy crap, make one. Bob
  22. They must work really hard to have fitment issues with tri-y headers! There's only two tubes going thru a pretty large area on the passenger side. Last time I checked, ceramic coated headers were pretty pricey. You'd think grinding anything would not be needed. I know I wouldn't. Bob
  23. Oh, good news! The passenger seat does not mechanically resemble the drivers seat at all. Nice. Lovely German over engineering. Bob
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