RPM

Oh, and exhaust tips are aftermarket.

Imo those pins and lanyards are one of the iconic parts of the 69 Mustang and which single it out amongst other Mustangs. The fancy twist locks on the 70 are way too modern a look for me. But what do I know? But I do you should have no problems doing it.

You'd think for $115k it would have at least the one thing that makes it an R code, the shaker scoop. And those door trim panels ain't for a Mach 1.

I know a couple of folks here have one and figured you'd have a reply by now. I've seen a couple installed and they were made by Undercover Innovations here in Bakersfield.

Boy, I must have had a brain malfunction by not remembering to recommend Mike @latoracing. He puts out top shelf work, and he's a real good guy. I've even been to his shop. Sheesh.

Yep, I agree with you that there's still some air in there. 1500 psi at the front is really good.

Just for info.

Yep, crazy low. I had to eliminate the carb spacer, and lower the motor ~½" to fit the shaker.

Yep, totally agree on WCCC. You won't get yard sale prices, but sometimes that doesn't matter.

Just FYI, I've got a complete set of take off 69 disc spindles I'll make you a great deal on. Includes new rotors.

Have you checked with West Coast Classic Cougar?

I fought my power booster lack of power frustration until I removed the booster and bought a manual pedal. Been happy since.

What? Since I've no idea on your ages, I left the topic open for y'all to confirm or deny being old. Think I'll go check your DOBs.

Old? You're a year younger than me, you ain't old. Now the other two guys replying to this thread...

Since you've got AC, there's not a lot of room between the steel dash pad reinforcement and the ducting housing. And it gets narrower the further out you go.

Yikes! God speed on your journey.

Welcome to the friendliest forum Kaitlyn, and congratulations on buying the best looking car ever club. As you know, 69 sportsroofs are hard to get nowadays due to their recent popularity. Good advice from Midlife above. If you haven't already done so, many people get a Marti report https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm to find out a bit of info on their Mustang. It includes build dates and what parts and options your particular car was built with. Here are a few Mustang businesses that most enthusiasts believe are the best in their field. http://midlifeharness.com/ for wiring restoration. Randy was the first to reply to your post, is a plethora of information, and a swell guy. http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ for all things steering and brakes. I highly recommend you at some point send him your steering box for a rebuild. After 53 years it needs it. Dan and Carol are also great people to deal with. https://opentrackerracing.com/ for all things suspension. John is also a great guy. If you call these guys, you will be talking to the owner. Just tell them what you are planning, or ask for advice, and you will get good, solid information. https://www.npdlink.com/ National Parts Depot (NPD) for parts. There are several other good Mustang vendors which will be mentioned to you during your build. Pics. We love pics here. At least I do. Especially pics of your 69 as it currently sits. We also like to know what part of the country you're from. If you don't care to list the town, a geographical location helps. And again, welcome to the forum.

Dave I'd use a clay bar. It removed the over spray on the rest of my car, and much cheaper.

I had the misfortune of having someone get white over spray on my Mach 1, which I didn't notice for two weeks. The over spray came off the red paint easily enough with a clay bar, but didn't touch the over spray on the black matte. Other than a respray, none of my several contacts had much advice. While searching online I ran across a spray on product from Dr Beasley's that claimed to remove over spray from matte black. Riiight. I figured I'd waste $35 plus shipping before I'd respray the hood. I had no faith it would work, but I'm a believer in it now. Directions said spray it on, wait 5 minutes, wipe it off. The first application removed most of the white speckles, so I applied a second coat and waited 8ish minutes. The result was effin magic. Well worth the $50 and twenty minutes.

Yes, it's still for sale, and for non AC. I sent you a private message.

First order of business, happy early birthday. My advice is based on you saying you don't have the time or space to work on your Mustang, and my own experiences. Rusty Gillis does outstanding work on Mustangs, and is located in Port Richie FL. http://www.gillisrestorations.com/ Summit sells a Holley knockoff that people rave about, I've not used it but would if I need another carb. Forum member @Midlife is the go to guy for wiring harness issues. http://midlifeharness.com/ Nothing wrong with Ford steering if it's in good shape. Dan at Chockostang.com is the go to guy for steering issues. I believe the doing the Shelby/Arning upper control arm one inch drop, and proper alignment to be pretty much mandatory for a good handling Mustang. Day Scovil at Daze Cars is a great guy, with many how to tech articles. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html When you change from factory parts to aftermarket, it's not plug and play. One change will require several other mods for the first to work. I'm president of that club, and discourage new members. A points based ignition like our cars came with need replaced every 10-15,000 miles. Many people change to Duraspark or Petronix and are happy with it. I think your buddy's valuation is pretty close. Good luck with your build.

I bet it was a fun drive in that hot rod Challenger.

I don't have a power booster, but does not the rear disc caliper take more fluid than the stock brake cylinder? If it has to move more fluid, wouldn't that be the cause of the longer brake pedal travel?

SOLD! Thanks Jim, it was nice seeing you today.

With stock suspension I think you want at least 4½" back space on the front, not sure on rear, but you can run much more. I don't have stock suspension, so...