aslanefe

Are you thinking 2 post or 4 post lift? Just fyi 2 post requires thicker slab.

Looking good, now you have to get the Mustang in there and start wrenching.

Sorry we don't have a diner in this forum (yet). But if you want your shorts checked, Randy ( @Midlife) will be happy to help.

Made one set, should finish the rest in a few days.

I believe there is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch, and it keeps resetting. Might be a short somewhere or a bad headlight switch. Wait for Randy or Mach1driver to chime in.

If it is a daily driver/cruiser with a small block which is not modified for more power, even the smaller 7.25 inch that came on 6 cylinder will work. I have been using one over 25 years on one of my cars.

For a sunny day cruiser, even the preset tuning works okay; but I am running it on my daily driver 69 Mustang. So I am trying to tune it to start and run good even at below freezing temps with no to minimum warm up time and with good fuel efficiency.

This is the link to the switch, I believe I have a few left for $30 plus shipping.

Mine will not cost $24 each and not be used :) I also make the parking brake switch and sell it cheaper than WCC wants for a used one.

I will make 12 when I have some time as I am busy with my project too. Hopefully a week or two is okay with you; I think it is because you will be spending a lot of time with Sniper, install is easy, but tuning it is not unless you have tuning experience. I am still trying to tune mine after installing it on one of my cars over 2 years ago.

I recommend that you remove the glasses on your cars and check the rollers first. It may be that they are just loose and you can tighten them as described on the thread I linked. But if one of the tabs/wings of the rollers are broken, you will need new ones. I do not know your capabilities, make sure you understood how I installed them because you need to be able to remove the old ones, modify the original fastener by drilling and tapping. If you still want 12 rollers without checking them first, that is fine with me but you have to give me some time before I can print them.

You should be good, moving the seat risers back does not affect the console mounting.

I can make some if you need any.

They are not reproduced. But this link have couple ideas for you.

Bob, my 70 vert does not have one piece seat riser with hump either. As far as I know, one piece seat riser is on 65-68 verts. On 69-70 all body styles have 2 piece seat riser with verts having provisions on risers to fit over inner vert rockers.

Vic, as far as I know, there is no such thing as mini console on 69-70, just the console you have; I believe this includes Shelby too. And 69-70 have 2 piece seat platform on all body styles; not like 65-68 vert specific one piece seat platform. So 65-68 have vert specific consoles but there is no vert specific console on 69-70. If a 69-70 did not come with console, the ash tray is hung under heater control panel; cars with console have the ashtray as part of console (and you have a gauge pod in ashtray spot). So you are good if you have the correct top piece (chrome piece) for auto shifter. As a side note, 69 have cigar lighter on console by arm rest, non console cars have the lighter on ash tray assy under heater control panel. 70 console does not have a lighter, lighter is next to wiper switch. Last time I looked for a console all reproduction consoles were 69 consoles with lighter, don't know if they started to reproduce 70 consoles without lighter. Install your carpet, center the shifter bezel, press on the console and drill the side holes. I would recommend that before you drill the holes, heat up a nail or something and burn through the carpet through console holes carefully otherwise your drill bit may catch the carpet loop and pull the string damaging your carpet, happened to me on a 66. Burn, drill install a screw; one hole at a time.

Is your issue not sitting flush on the sides of the tunnel? If so, that is normal, need to be installed over carpet/padding. Install to last piece that goes on top of the console (the piece with chrome and woodgrain vinyl). That top piece is either auto or manual trans specific, make sure you have the one for the auto so it fits over shifter bezel. One side of the opening is angled different on auto one as auto shifter is not centered on tunnel. Install your carpet/padding then put the console over the tunnel. Drill the holes for the side of the console, then drill the top holes.

Ridge, that can't be from Harbor Freight, because looks like it says made in USA on it.

Hankook Optimo H724 comes with whitewall like your Mastercraft. And you can get them from a few places including Walmart. I have them on my daily driver 1969 Mustang and no complaints. Cheers PS: My daily driver is also champain gold.

3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive availiable at any auto parts store should work. I used that to put headliner on a coupe and don't remember it bleeding through the moonskin vinyl.

I put a small block on a Mustang that came with 200 over 20 years ago. Kept 6 cylinder springs, 7.25 diff, front factory discs and rear drums. This is a daily driver/cruiser. Diff was still working until last year and started whining as it leaked fluid and I did not add some in time. Front springs were a little soft for the small block and the front of the car would roll and dip. Instead of changing the springs, I moved the spring perches about 1/2 inches inward (drilled 2 new holes on UCA). By changing the moment arm, 6 cylinder springs act stiffer. This change has been working good for me. In short, you do not have to change the diff, front springs etc. for a cruiser/daily driver.

Do the brake lights work?

Same clips used on door panels.

If you do not want to cut/splice your original harness, only solution I see is mount it in the trunk; hook up metermatch to the wire to the sender and post from the sender. You have to run a wire to the trunk to power the metermatch.

Len, there are different ways/tools/gauges used to do alignment and they will all have different numbers for same color but give the same result; so It is difficult to give a paint by numbers version without knowing which tools/gauges you have. You do not need to buy a special gauge (like the one use on the link above) unless you need to adjust caster which is not necessary in your case just to drive to an alignment shop (unless the shop is a few counties over). Just search for "how to adjust camber with a digital angle finder (or level)" and "how to adjust toe with a tape measure". Then you will see many ways and find one that you can accomplish with the gauges/tools you already have or by only buying a cheap angle finder. On a side note, you even don't need a special gauge to align caster.