Vicfreg

No but do like the look!

Opened up my FiTech command center today. Spotless inside. I have the sintered filter on the vent. Comments? Any updates I need to do before I close it back up?

Mike. So sad about you losing your dog last June. Ours is 13 years old and this is her second car restoration project. Hope she gets to see it finished....

Wow. That is really wild. I have never seen that modification. Also not sure I would dump fuel in the frame rail. But, very cool to see the original instructions.

I have never seen before, and I have seen a lot of Mustangs. Is there a Ford part # on that cross shaped piece? So you actually have a factory shaker hood with a functioning fixed hood scoop? Very cool

Nice work

Doug, where and how does it connect to the filler neck? I am interested in this also

Mine was a rescue dog. Go get one....!

Here is what I found.... Here is the link, text below. Also lot's of stuff on these vented fuel tanks and design related to the 1971 and later Pinto fires. This is why the Ford "service" replacement gas caps for the cars with flip down gas caps were the screw on type. My 1968 Mustang has a flip down gas cap, and it has popped open on occasion.... https://www.diyford.com/shelby-mustang-history-19691970-gt350-gt500-end-line/ ....But the crowning achievement of the Shelby-unique rear fascia styling had to be the exhaust pipes, which exited in the center of the rear face. But the great appearance was not without issue: the close proximity of the vented fuel cap to the exhaust outlet might not have been one of Shelby’s better ideas from a safety point of view. The fuel cap continuously vented gasoline vapors from the tank, resulting in a fuel vapor cloud lingering around the fuel cap. Fuel vapors, being heavier than air, tend to settle toward the ground, and as the fuel vapor cloud settled, the design of the car’s rear fascia dictated that they settled right into the area of the exhaust outlet. Under certain running conditions, when the carburetor was set just right and there was a rapid backing off of the throttle, the engine could backfire. It was known as “pop back” and it was unique to the GT500’s 428 powerplants. On a couple of occasions, this pop back ignited the fuel vapor cloud and actually set the tail end of the car on fire! It was incredibly ironic that one advertising tag line for the 1969 Shelby was “fire, and refinement” but that was not the kind of fire either Ford or Shelby Automotive had in mind. The fix was to install nonvented fuel caps and replumb the fuel tanks so that they were vented via a hose that exited at the bottom of the rear quarter panel, away from the exhaust exit. GT350s and their 351 powerplants were not subject to pop back and didn’t receive the plumbed tank venting. The whole deal was a very close call, as some worst-case engineering analyses actually had the pop-back ignition of the fuel vapors work its way back to the fuel tank, causing an explosion. The few fires that were experienced were small and, save for some damaged fiberglass and paint, caused no catastrophic effects.

I would keep the Red. It's cool.

I actually have a Shaker hood that someone installed a scoop on, and it is a mess. You wind up with extra holes in the hood, and it looks like crap when you open the hood. In my case, one of the former owners also tried to install hood pins. Not good. This hood is currently in my storage building, not sure what to do with it. It's a shame, as it is an original hood that came off of a 1970 Mach 1.

Wrapping up my wiring in preparation for dropping the engine in. Installed my alternator main feed through the firewall, and the wiring to my Vintage Air control valve. Finished my under dash power distribution center, and my trunk mounted grounding block wiring. Last thing to do is get under the car and run the wiring for my VHX speed sensor and my reverse lights. Then a new mini-project, which is to run my power steering lines through the drivers side fenderwell. Got my Earl's power steering hose and a pile of 6 AN fittings from Summit today, so will start that next week. The area by the Borgeson steering box is so tight, I need to run the hoses now, or else I won't be able to do it with the engine in... First pic is engine compartment, starting to get the wires out of the way for the engine install. Second pic is the power block under my passenger side dash. Really big red wire is my starter wire coming from the trunk. It runs through a high amperage bulkhead connector at the top of the footwell. Next largest red wire at the bottom most terminal (4th) on the right is my main power feed to/from the trunk mounted battery. The wire on the left side of the bottom most terminal is my main feed from the alternator coming in through the firewall. It goes through a 200 amp MIDI fuse. Same size wire on the 3rd terminal from the top is my power feed to the front of the car, which feeds another terminal block mounted on the radiator support. Brownish wire on the 1st terminal (top) on the right is the fusible link connector that feeds the AAW fuse block. 3rd pics is my alternator wire (#6) going through the firewall, and my Vintage Air heater control valve, where I routed that wire through the Vintage Air block off plate, in a hole that was already there. 4th pic is the grounding wires in my trunk. The big ass black wire is a military surplus negative battery cable that is grounded to the a steel bracket that is located in the trunk, about in the middle of the taillight hole, right above the bumper bracket holes. This spot is "heavy metal", not sheet metal, so I carefully drilled and tapped it, and installed the cable there. This goes to the top post of my Optima battery. The large black wire at the bottom of the picture, attached to the lowest terminal point, goes to the front post of my Optima battery. The 4 small wires are individual ground wires that run to the front (under dash) ground terminal block, my PWM electronics, and the Vintage Air blower motor and electronics. The other large black wire at the top of the terminal block is the main ground wire for my PWM Fan controller, which is located in the trunk.

My car is approx. 27-3/8' from the UCA front bolt hole to bolt hole. At least one of my shock towers were cracked, so I did the Boss 302 "dog bone" reinforcement and also wrapped the shock towers. This work was done by Mike (Latoracing), our forum resident fabrication genius. The car was on a frame table and checked (with lasers) to the factory dimensions. I did the 1" drop while I was at it. In these pics, you can see the size of the plates used to wrap the shock towers, and the use of the lowered mounting holes for the UCAs.

That's one talented dog, standing up on the arms of the Chair....

Mark, what a great color combination. Awesome...

I have a Milodon 7 Qt front sump oil pan with no issues. There is really no way to use a rear sump pan on the early Mustangs.

I am posting this wiring diagram tidbit based on a discussion on grounding I was having... For my AAW wiring install, I did not ground my front lighting yet. On page 13 of the thread, I installed some "intermediate" connectors for the front lighting that I will use to finish my headlights, parking/directional, and front led (fog lamp feed) later after the car is painted. For these cars, the original wiring diagrams show the ground points, and generally (not always) the ground wires are a number "57". You can see that on the attached pictures, where there is a common ground point for the front lights, and a single ground for things like washer pump. The AAW kit doesn't come with this common ground, so Mike65 and I were exchanging on the idea of installing a front grounding block, similar to what I did in my trunk. Actually a good idea, and allows you to run a main ground wire to a solid ground point somewhere, rather than drilling holes in your sheetmetal and hoping for the best.

Hey Mark. Thanks. Congrats on getting your stripes on....

Oh, the other advantage of the Ford box is that it has a spark retard-on-start feature that makes it easier to start.

I have a late model Duraspark II setup from a 1985 Mustang GT on my 302. This was recommended by Ford Motorsport technicians. 1985 was the only year for a carbureted 5.0, and the distributor and ignition box setup works great, and is designed for the higher revving roller cam motor and cam. Painless sells a wiring conversion kit to allow use of the "horseshoe" coil connector with your stock wiring harness. I used a MSD blaster coil and eliminated the infamous "pink" resistor wire. My Duraspark module has the "blue" plug, which is also known as the Ford Part Number "DY184". This is the non-California" module... Got the distributor and box from Autozone.

$900 sounds high. You can buy a 351W remanufactured complete short block all day long for probably $1200, and bolt your stuff back on. I would stay with the Windsor if you could. The extra stuff, like all of your accessory brackets are available, but take time and money to retrofit on a 289 or 302.

stunning picture. Who did the photography?

Not sure about Mach 1 for an electric vehicle... Hmmmm. I think there is already an Mach electric vehicle.... Go Speed Racer....

Too funny. Here is my 1968 "S" code coupe that I owned until 1981. I will find a better pic. Had the rear marker lights covered over by previous owner. 390 - 4 Barrel, 4 speed toploader, front disc brakes, factory tach. .... Mistake to get rid of it....

I did the bushing install with a kit that had zirc fittings, and did not have to weld them in. I will have to go look to see where I got them, but very happy with the result. I would not buy aftermarket hinges......