Mach1 Driver

update,   took clock apart,   after playing with it for a hour or so,  I found one broken wire,  which I resoldered on,  and found that the ground connection has a 2 point connection,  1 for a wirre the other touches the clock  housing which acts as a ground for the whole car,  whch might not be making a connection so I soldered a wire from that to the housing,  and now the clock works fine

My father-in-law was a building contractor, and built every house on his street. He became friends with one of the neighbors, and whenever something went wrong  at his house (even 40 years later) he always jokingly claimed that he still had a warranty from the builder. I think you should evoke such a warranty from Mustang Steve :)

$700 for an alternator? I've bought several running cars for less than $700.

I hate it when the garden hose gets a kink in it…

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Went with Mach1drivers suggestion, helical gears. I went with the 3:50s

My usual source for a 69 is Buckeye Demons build thread here (look under paint in the index). Another source is the Concours Mustang forum.
  
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15352.0
 
 
 
 
 

Its just like Goldilocks said when she ate from the little bowl...its just right ;)

OK, I have to admit that I've never paid attention to the coupes (uh, sorry), but why is the back seat bigger and the trunk? The coupe isn't longer is it? Something doesn't jive.

Those of us with our worthless " red-headed-stepchild" Hardtops ... this is probably our only "ONE-UP" / bragging feature we (can) have that no big brother highly sought after Sportsroof car could have !!
That and a back window you can actually see out of, a back seat that 1 or 2 average size people could sit in, and a larger / more usable trunk ... features that just don't matter in the '69-70 Sportsroof world !!
Doug 

Oh I just knew you'd say something. They were all neatly zip tied to the main under dash harness, but took up too much room to fit the AC pieces I'm now installing. It'll work out fine grasshopper. 

I have the Holley Sniper installed on my 408 stroked Cleveland M- code. I also installed Holley's Hyperspark Coil, Distributor, and Ignition box. The fuel pump is also a Holley in tank 69-70 retro fit return-less pump with fuel sender. I have no complaints, with the Hyperspark the initial turning done by selecting Hyperspark when first configuring the ECU. You can refine it from there.  The return-less in tank pump you just use you exiting fuel line and modify both ends to connect to the pump and the sniper. 
Most important is to run adequate size wire gauge and connect the power to a clean dedicated right off the battery, Tao into the ignition wire as sloe to the ignition switch as possible to avoid issue with factory resistance wires. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks before or right after the O2 Sensor. Exhaust leaks before or close to the O2 sensor wreak havoc on the Sniper closed loop system causing constant fluctuation between rich and lean fuel conditions as the Sniper ECU tries to maintain the target air/fuel ratio.  If you have an original (unconverted Ohm driven) factory Tach, you will need to have Rocketman convert it to a voltage driven tach, or buy a product called Tach Adapter from MSD. The Tach Adapter converts the Sniper voltage tach signal to a Ohm driven signal. Essentially mimicking the factory coil output to the factory tach.
Finally, I have found Holley's Tech support to be outstanding. Available Monday thru Saturday from 8am to 8pm Eastern time and usually only a 10-15 min wait time. 

I feel your pain Jerry, this is from today. And btw, I am lazy. 

For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?
Dakota has DIM GRD and DIM SIG inputs and they sell a 10k pot to dim the display. Keep in mind that the ash tray, heater, radio, and clock lights are still on the light switch dimmer, have a different power source and fuse, so the two circuits need to be separate. I've contemplated machining a shaft for the light switch to interface with the Dakota dimmer in some Rube Goldberg contraption. That would be a fun little project.

You do know that MSD stands for my spark disappeared, right? Although I've never had one, and many people love them. 

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.  

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Which one of the classics are you? Whats not to love about a 56!

Drove to Canyon Lake TX to pick up my first love from a buddy.  My first vehicle was a 56 F100, which I foolishly sold circa 1980. 

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.
Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.
Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.
I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
 

I would put in an Eaton Truetrac- try Quick Performance. The EATON Truetrac uses helical gears instead of clutches to perform its limited-slip function.

As nice as your car looks I personally would not race it, I would be treating it like a baby. If you never intend to race or do any mud slinging an open rear would be my choice. If you ever want to race again take the 411 and build a race car around it.