Mach1 Driver

Terry, I think we may have talked about the one I used on another project before. I have no knowledge of using one on a Mustang but I can tell u that after we got this thing on the road the learning ability of it is awesome. The more u drive it the better it gets.

All working now 

Doesn't make the manifold bad.  Does make the 'lower oil baffle' bad.  The purpose for the baffle is two-fold.  Provide an insulated area below the carb. pad from hot air and hot oil splash.  Brian 

Mucho beuno ! I like these wheels !
I didnt know it was independent rear end . The car automatically resets the tire pressure sensors as well   

You can get a crate engine from Ford that is a stroked 351 in 427 or 460, with a warranty, and it'll fit a whole lot better than a 429 that bounces off the shock towers:
https://performanceparts.ford.com/engines/#351
In any event, you'll be needing a 9" rear end, and that sure didn't come with a 6.

Rich, thanks!   I will use the later model year set, and find some.
I had a long discussion at the stop about paint on/off the car.  The entire car will be assembled for final body seam alignment and fit up.  Then the car will be painted assembled.   The front  fenders will have bedliner type paint on the inside.    The trunk lid, cowl, stone deflector valences, etc will be painted off of the car.   The reason for this is to ensure the final seam alignment and fitup can be done with body panels without the final top coat.   Expecially with the way the Mustang hoods mount, it is almost a certainty that the hood will never go back to the right place if you remove it.
It also allows the paint shop to totally mask my car only once, as the undercarriage and engine bay are done, and they will wrap the tires/wheels and mask the car off to the floor.

Hi Vic,
Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70.  The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together.
They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr
Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots.
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair
Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left). 

I love these seats ,black leather with black swade insets but they are a bit hard to get into with the wrap around on the seat backs ,it doesnt give much but feels good when you are setting in them . Back seat has quite a bit of room also ,but those quarter sails are impossible to see around . I like the navigation but most of all i like the fact that it has dials for the radio ,heater and AC instead of the touch screen crap .they had installed Corsa exhaust ,quiet at an idle and normal driving but when you step on it you know it .i looked it up and that cost $2,000.
It has factory 3:92 gears as part of the super track pack and it turns around 2200 rpms at 60 mph .
it even has one of those new fangled BOOM BOOM radios ,you know the kind ,the kind that rattles your windows when they pull up next to you . On the way home my brother asked what that boom was coming from the trunk area ,i told him it was the sub woofers BOOM BOOM BOOM HAHA!

Last minute decision and had to get there fast ,got home even faster !

Well, since it isn't OEM, then no one but American Auto Wire can tell you how its wired- we have no diagrams for their products.
However, if you have a tach, then you should have an alternator warning light instead of an ammeter, and the light should come on in "Accy", or "ON". The dual brake warning light should come on in "Start"- that's part of the prove out circuit. If so equipped you could have a seat belt light, and a park brake light. The seat belt light would come on with "Accy  or "ON", and go out in less than a minute. The park brake light would come on in "ON" or "Start" if the brake is on. 

The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips.   Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4".
1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips.   Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here:
https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm
 
Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES.
To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips.
My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984.   
Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway.
 In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have.   They are works of art !!    Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !!
Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here:
New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
 
Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !!
Doug

1969 Mach 1s had Quad tips and 1970 Mach 1s had oval tips.

following in Andy Worhol's footsteps

Correct. Depending on the size of the pipes you're running, there are several tips listed on eBay right now.

Dude, you're about 6 months too late. I had a pair that I'd have let you have for my cost, $100. Crap!

I bought a pair from an outfit in Michigan. The welds were pretty rough but can't be seen when installed. They were nowhere near $463. I will see if I can find the name, assuming they are still making them.
 
[edit] I couldn't find my old post but I found another one. It's Great Lakes Customs in Mt. Clemons, MI. Looks like they are still around, maybe give them a call. 

All 69 Mach1 received the stainless rolled tips. The "exact" repo are quite expensive. But there are several lower cost alternatives.:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/tail-pipe-extensions/214326/200414?year=1969

I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo .
I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else .
The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .

20 years ago i was the only one that made a patch panel for the back of the cab ,a friend machined the dies for my bead roller ,it cost me a whole $80 ,i wonder what it would cost to make these dies today?

Found a pic of my fiberglass 37 pick up grill

I kinda got this get out of jail card that works so well I haven't had a speeding ticket since 1977.

Yes I've been doing little stuff on and off while I work on the compressor and parts shed. I just can't stand being in the same room with the compressor banging away, plus I'll need more room to store parts, so that is the next big push. The pad is prepared and ready for building. Of course SWMBO has other ideas- we have a cabinet refacing job/new counter-tops in three rooms coming up shortly too. I'm busy.

A/C glove box fits both cars, but you can’t fit as many speeding tickets in it.

Its kinda hard to read, so included the link to the How To's section first: