Rsmach1

So what is the car used for, cruising, weekend warrior, any trips to the strip?

If you change to a bigger cam you might need new springs. Are you running Ford original or aftermarket rockers. If so whos?

If stock it will be 1.73, Ford adjustable 1.76.

One more question, are you using adjustable or non adjustable valvetrain?

Keep in mind, the more lope there is, the less low end performance, not to mention lower vacuum for power brakes. I'd look at something like this http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1673&gid=287 Or this max http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1674&gid=287 But this one will effect power brakes to some extent.

I'll say what was said to me when I asked the same question. If you plan on selling it the original color is always more desirable. If you're keeping it, paint it whatever color you like best. The Gulfstream Aqua is a nice color.

Well I bet you feel like a huge weight came off your shoulders when you pressed the brake pedal and it worked. It's a fairly common mistake if you're not familiar with these calipers (why I mentioned it early in this thread). The important thing is it's fixed, it stops, and you're smiling now. Go enjoy your car :)

I'll have to agree RPM, the plate would probably best best. I'll have to look at the car you're talking about.

Not 100% positive but think Ford relied on the pushrod clip locking into the M/C(at least for 69/70), ever tried to get one out? Pretty much have to break the locking clip and it takes some force to do so.

No adapters that I'm aware of (aftermarket is geared towards adding, not removing boosters lol), I was either going to fab and weld a piece to fill the void, or just make a backing plate to cover the area. Haven't really looked at a pedal stop yet as I'm still in the tear down phase of the whole car.

They are back in stock at yearone.

Look here http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html and scroll down and you can see what's done to the hole to add a booster.

The hole in the firewall gets enlarged when running a booster (the upper part of the opening), so yes you will need to fill in that gap.

If you're looking for a "drop in" 4 piston caliper that replaces the stock single, using the stock rotor, the only one I've seen is this one http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a213 But requires 15" wheels.

Nice write up, great job.

I say go with Dynomax race bullets like 5literfever, who needs a radio with that HARD ROCK screaming out of the pipes

The loss of compression would either be rings, or valves. Stem seals won't cause compression loss. If the plugs are covered in oil and the compression is low you have a tired engine. I wouldn't bother with trying stem seals (although they are probably bad too). If the plugs are so oily that they don't fire properly you can try using plug foulers, along with a tired engine oil additive, but you are running on borrowed time, sorry.

That was my guess as well.....

The manual brake pedal is available from West Coast Classic Cougar, http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/ although they don't list the pivot shaft and retaining clip, if you call them they can find it for you (they did for me). The other option is eBay, http://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Ford-Mustang-Brake-Pedal-Non-Power-Automatic-Boss-Shelby-Mach-Grande-/401080410358?nav=SEARCH and the pivot shaft with clip, http://m.ebay.com/itm/1970-Ford-Mustang-Automatic-Transmission-Brake-Pedal-Pin-Clip-/111934088327?nav=SEARCHScott Drake sells an adjustable pushrod, you will need to find out if the M/C from Baer retains the pushrod like stock, if not you will have to fab a pedal stop to keep the pushrod from coming out of the back of the M/C.

You will need a manual brake pedal assy, and the support shaft as well. I'm right in the middle of this conversion myself for the same reason. Not my thumbs.

Looks like Crane discontinued the adjustable vacuum advance for the points style distributor. They only list the kit for electronic distributors now. Any ideas?

Loose will do that lol, glad you figured it out.

Duraspark distributor rebuilt http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/distributor/cardone-reman-distributor/ford/ltd-ii/1977/8-cylinders-h-5-8l-2bl-windsor-ohv/700880_0_11714_4431/?checkfit=true New http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/distributor/duralast-gold-new-distributor/ford/ltd-ii/1977/8-cylinders-h-5-8l-2bl-windsor-ohv/193720_0_4618_4431/?checkfit=true Module http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-control-module/duralast-ignition-control-module/ford/ltd-ii/1977/8-cylinders-h-5-8l-2bl-windsor-ohv/118422_627227_0_2425/?checkfit=true Edit American autowire sells a harness for $116,.or you can buy the connectors and wire and do your own for around $50-60.

Stock http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/distributor/cardone-reman-distributor/108258_314885_0/?checkfit=true

I think the issues you're having are due to a couple things. First the inability to retard timing because of clearance with the fuel line leads me to believe the distributor was installed (clocked) incorrectly. Secondly the timing variances your having leads me to think something is wrong with the advance mechanism in the distributor. If it was me I'd look into getting a new distributor. You can replace it with a stock replacement type with a single vacuum advance, and reuse your Pertronix, or go new aftermarket like an MSD ready to run with vacuum advance. A third choice would be a Ford Duraspark distributor, ignition module and coil from a later 351w, wich will give you a complete electronic ignition system priced in between a stock and MSD units.