Midlife

Wow.  Another reason why I can't really understand what are the reasons for the variances...I prefer to restore customer's wiring so I know it is appropriate to their vehicle.  Otherwise, it is simply a crap shoot and I don't like that at all!  Now it is even more of a crapshoot!

An update on my saga of the vibration. Decided to put a dial indicator on the tail shaft at the front, middle and rear and it is good. 
Ran it again on the stands and definitely speed related, not RPM. Did a runout on the axles, all good. The right hand rear tire seems to be a little out of round. Could be just from sitting. I swapped the RH front and rear and ran on the stands again. NO VIBRATION!!!!!!. 
I was thinking a needed a new tire (BFG 245/55/15) so happy to do that. Turning the wheel by hand it appears the drum is out of round. I had a look at the drum and the bolt holes are larger than the studs so can be installed slightly off center. I replaced the original rear wheel and di my best to keep the drum centered. Did another run on the stands and NO VIBRATION. 
Took it for a drive and its a different car. I will be ordering two new drums and shoes this week. 
I am very happy!!!!

Lizard skin on the exterior of the car?  Isn't that bedliner?  WTF?

The constant voltage regulator can be adjusted but it affects the fuel, oil, and temperature gauges.  On the back of the CVR is either a small post or screw, often potted in epoxy.  Turning it one way or another changes all 3 gauges at the same time.  My preference is to ensure I have a 1/4 tank of gas, and set the CVR so that the fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank exactly.  Both the oil and water gauges are "indicator gauges", in that once you determine where normal is, once they deviate from that position, then something is amiss.  They are not precision instruments.

No; she's a professional archeologist and I'm simply a bum.

My e-mail provider is terminating support for the domain that I was using.  So, I need to switch e-mail addresses.  Please use:
harnesses66@gmail.com

My replacement hip is back to near normal, and the wife's hip replacement is doing good as well.  So...I guess I need to inform everyone that I'm now back in business!
Thanks for your patience.

My replacement hip is back to near normal, and the wife's hip replacement is doing good as well.  So...I guess I need to inform everyone that I'm now back in business!
Thanks for your patience.

My replacement hip is back to near normal, and the wife's hip replacement is doing good as well.  So...I guess I need to inform everyone that I'm now back in business!
Thanks for your patience.

I cut a slot out of a 2x4 such that the pinch weld wasn't touching the bottom of the slot.  Then, I used that 2x4 with a 2 post lift when I needed to access frame rails and other areas normally used as a lift point.

No retainer clip.  You do need to remove the headlight knob and the shaft by pressing on the button on the bracket and pulling the knob completely out.

Ask for someone smarter and they show up. Like a bat-signal. :)

Almost all custom muffler shops have lifts with ramps to support the car on its suspension.  I'm sure they would be happy to install your subframes for a nominal fee.

The ground wire for the washer pump is tied to the driver's side ground lug.

Damn, that's the first correct answer out of the last 8,439 responses!  I'm slipping, I tell ya...

Damn, that's the first correct answer out of the last 8,439 responses!  I'm slipping, I tell ya...

Damn, that's the first correct answer out of the last 8,439 responses!  I'm slipping, I tell ya...

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

Are your rear drums adjusted?  If there's a lot of space between the pads and drum, your brake pedal will feel much as you described.
The brake fluid must be going somewhere without affecting the braking ability.

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

Stupid design engineers or penny-pinching bean-counters.

By replacing the circuit card, your gauges are probably shorting out to the metal case.  Measure resistance between any gauge post and the metal dash cluster itself, and if you see 1 or 14 ohms (approximate), then one of them has shorted (all are connected via the CVR output line except for the ammeter).  Loosen the nuts and re-set the gauge until you get kilo-ohm resistance.
There should not be a separate ground line to the dash cluster; there is a separate ground line that attaches to every item that uses a ground, including the main lug that holds the CVR in place.  The latter is how the dash cluster itself gets its ground, in addition to any screws that holds it in place.

Grey is probably the carb anti-stall wire.  You can ignore that.  The PRNDL wire is brown or blue/red.  And yes, the BU and NSS wires are all in the same plug.

I've used a kitchen or large garbage trash bag, folded over, under each wheel to assist in caster/camber measuring.  The tool that I have is an old bubble gauge, but quite accurate.  It was also quite cheap, less than $50, IIRC.

I've used a kitchen or large garbage trash bag, folded over, under each wheel to assist in caster/camber measuring.  The tool that I have is an old bubble gauge, but quite accurate.  It was also quite cheap, less than $50, IIRC.