Grabber70Mach

Been making steady but what seems like slow  progress  over the last 2 months, whilst waiting for some parts to come over via US.
New brake lines  installed. Had a right  game bench bleeding the master cylinder but all done now.
Wiring harness is in and connected - thanks to Randy  at Midlife for the refurb one, top drawer as usual - all electrics work fine 
All lights now working including my new sequential LED’s - love them ! 
Original column refurbed and manual steering all now complete - but I think the internal column is way to close the external housing nr to the coupling  - I’ll put a post up in tech parts of forum - any  thoughts ?
(going to EPAS later down the line) 
the 408W stroker is about to land via US to Felixstowe U.K. in the next 10 days, been a long time coming, then I’ll fit it and hopefully drive it around the block 
Chris 

Sorry I’ve not posted in here for ages…
Car was more or less ready at end of September and was getting it ready for a large local show over here in England. Basically I never got there because ihas all sorts of issues with my C4, which I bought used and was supposed to have been rebuilt….needless to say it screwed up, so no show…
Collected the box and TQ today, so that will be going back in over next 2 weeks or so, when I get a spare moment.
In the meanwhile, I’ve been busy tidying up/fitting new interior parts eg one piece headliner, BMW E30 seats, 3 point sets belts, gauge pod etc and tidy up engine bay wiring etc 
chris 

For the first time in 3 yrs the car is back in terra firms, slowly putting it back together - just trying to find all those bits you think you saved/took off,  but can’t find in the myriad of boxes…

Sorry it’s been a fair time  since I’ve updated progress.
Relatively slow progress we work has been so busy, but I’ve started the long refit process:
street or track front suspension in
rear suspension in with axle 
fuel tank and lines in
Changes to manual steering, quick rack, ready  for EPAS later down the line 
Just trying to work out the brake lines and prop valve (bought a booster via mustang  steve, we manual before)
rear lights, bumper and new flush lenses with LED’s in 
just keep working up my new parts list, stuff is so hard to get over to U.K. at the moment, having to work 2 months in advance.
408W engine via Blueprint is on 5 month lead time (ordered 2 months ago) 
Chris 

It has been almost a year, but true to his word, Bruce gave me first shot at it when he decided to put it back up for sale.  Thank you Bruce. Bruce texted me on Wednesday to see if I was still interested.  I drove 12 hours to get there on Sunday and it is in my garage now.  I can’t wait to get to work on it.  Bruce has done all the hard stuff already.  Plenty more to do and more parts to buy.  This car goes to the front of the line in my garage.  Now I have a brother to my 1970 Mach 1.

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down.  My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website.
Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups.
Also my email has been cleared for future communications. 

Congrats on your new project, good find.  Looking forward to following along as you progress. 

Got a little bit of me time this morning ,pulled the driver side door off and took a little metal prep to it . Took two shots to get it this clean ,the trick is keeping it wet . While it did remove some fairly heavy surface i still want to lightly hit it with my smaller blasting pot just to get anything out of any crevices or light pits . All in all this would have been a perfect door if someone hadent drilled 4 holes for mounting big mirrors ,a hit with the Miller and they should disappear.  
These doors have been sitting bare metal for at least 15 years inside my shop.

Just finished this one ,i have made several but i have yet to see a pic of it on the car finished .
@newstang

I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood.
you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.
 

Not the best photo but full rebuild of the diff.  Sandblasted the housing then repainted in 2 pack satin black.  Same with the drum backing plates.  Everything new in the brakes.  Then a nice new centre, Strange modular centre and big bearing pinion with 1350.  cryo polished Motive 3.25 gear set, Eaton Tru Trac.
Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.
 

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.
it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

A big day off to the paint shop!
 

More interior work. I trimmed the rear carpet installed the rear fiberglass panels, got a custom color paint for the package tray and installed the rear seats. 

New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters. 
 

And YES, I see that the rotor is on the wrong side. I flipped it after the pic. Doh!

New Wilwood rear discs, and changed the rear gears from 3.0 to 3.55 posi. Now I just gotta bleed the dang things... god I hate brake fluid... 

It was not today but this past weekend my 69 Coupe got moved to its new home.

You'd be better off in the long run with the electric pump in the tank. I.E. Aeromotive Stealth II tank.  Other companies offer retrofit kits for existing tanks.  I just think this is a cleaner solution.

Another option is Shaun's (Street or Track) spindles with his front coilovers.
https://streetortrack.com/suspension/front-suspension/spindles/billet-big-spindles
From his webpage:
We are extremely proud to be able to offer our customers our Billet Big Spindle (patent pending).  Offering a 2" drop, verifiable geometry improvements as well as a significant reduction in bump steer over the factory spindle.  3 years of engineering, CAD design and testing have produced a spindle that fits inside a 17" wheel and allows the wheel to clear the upper ball joint and steering arm.  This means you can fit up to 2" of rim and tire further inboard.  No flares required to fit up to a 10.5" rim and a 315 tire up front with only rolled fender lips.
CNC machined, Tig welded, heat treated & powder coated right here in the USA, this spindle is a major upgrade to the original Mustang spindles.  Think about it.  The original cars were designed for bias ply tires that didn't grip very well.  Now, we are using modern radial tires with lots more grip.  The early spindles are prone to breaking under harsh driving conditions with sticky tires.  If you are serious about road racing, open tracking, building a corner carving restomod or pro-touring street machine, you should upgrade your early spindles.
Tire size possibilities - measured on cars with SOT coilover and rolled fender lips:
1965-66 Mustang 1967-68 Mustang 1969-73 Mustang 17x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/40/17 tires

18x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/35/18 tires 17x10" with 6.30" backspacing & 295/40/17 tires

18x10" with 6.30" backspacing & 295/35/18 tires 17x10.5" with 6.80" backspacing & 315/35/17 tires
  18x10.5" with 6.80" backspacing & 315/30/18 tires

Did a couple of these lower holes too...
 

Just a quickie very low production stamp, there is a lot of wrinkles and waves along the outside. The shape and a little around the edge was the goal.  My shop press (20 ton) is useful for the majority of patch panel parts and they surprisingly do fairly well. Having mirrored parts usually requires me to have crude setups, but majority of parts are stamped using laser cut pieces of plate and sharpie marks for alignment. The vent repair part was done by hand, but I have an idea on how to stamp it :)