det0326

I push the yoke all the way in, and make a mark on the yoke at the rear of the transmission. Then, pull it out 1" and mark the yoke again for reference.
Ask the person who is going to make your driveshaft how they want it to be measured.  Typically, it is from centerline to centerline of the u-joints.  A CRITICAL step is to make sure the weight of the car is on the rear suspension when you do the measuring.
 
 

This is the bane of the new generation.   I call it the "history of now". If they find it on their IPhone, it must be true.  
They don't have to worry thought, when their Tesla convertible batteries die and it starts to rain, the top will not go up.  They can go Google that....
 
 

Sorry bigmal I have seen some nice racks but I know nothing about steering racks so I can't help u there. 
Not sure if CPP or Borgenson makes a right hand drive box or not but it keeps all your steering geometry correct. If u ever tried one I believe u would like it. 

Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else.
I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. 
I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled  on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing  straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering. 
 

Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else.
I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. 
I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled  on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing  straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering. 
 

Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.

I have found a lot of times if the gauge is reading low it is usually a ground problem, that is if the sender is in proper working order. I always run a dedicated ground from where battery ground connects to engine block to the rear of car. Speaking of the Dakota gauges the VHX series that I used on the chev  had a menu selection for different resistance ranges. I don't think they were close enough tho if the proper selection does not work that you could select another one higher or lower to help correct the situation.

Kris.. my son has a shop building custom vehicles and he shys away from the in line electric pump. Most are noisy and run hotter due to the fact that they are not submerged in fuel like the intank one. He sticks with sniper...great tech support...and in comparision with the FI Tech comes with everything you need. Fi Tech if i recall was sort of a'la'carte as far as the necessary brackets, studs etc. whereas it all came with the Holley. However that may have changed....He usually orders his exact fit tanks from Tanks Inc.
....John

Yes Terry, I believe u are right if it is a PMGM, that I would assume OP is using. The only way it would work as I described would be to jump the two terminals on the starter with a heavy duty diode. lol  

I have given this a little thought also. I don't see why u couldn't leave stock sol. connected as is and jump the little terminal to the big one on the starter and of course put the big wire from stock sol to the big terminal on starter as it should be. What this would do for u is all power would be off starter when ignition switch is in the run position just like stock wiring was.  I did connect mine as u have drawn tho and never changed it but again I think it would work and safer too incase of a hot starter wire getting burned by a hot header.

I have given this a little thought also. I don't see why u couldn't leave stock sol. connected as is and jump the little terminal to the big one on the starter and of course put the big wire from stock sol to the big terminal on starter as it should be. What this would do for u is all power would be off starter when ignition switch is in the run position just like stock wiring was.  I did connect mine as u have drawn tho and never changed it but again I think it would work and safer too incase of a hot starter wire getting burned by a hot header.

f the other gauges work, then replacing the IVR with an aftermarket replacement won't help, and actually slows down the gauges at start-up. As said previously, if the float isn't full of gas, then bending the float arm or MeterMatch is probably the solution. If you need to buy a new sender go with NPDs best (call them). None of the replacement senders match the OEM according to Rick , the owner of NPD. The following may be of interest:
Edit: I removed the diagram and data from below, because with further testing done today, I found that both the OEM and aftermarket IVRs bring the gauges up to their operating ranges in about the same time. That was unexpected given the higher voltage for the OEM version just after start-up. What I found interesting was that the aftermarket IVR gave lower values when on high- about two needle widths lower. This may take a bit more investigation, because the OEM version of the IVR was outputting 5v continuous on high, but I'm not yet certain if the aftermarket IVR got loaded down and dropped it's output when on high, because it was also 5v ...when on low.
 
 
 
 

U are making way to much out of this. Buy the neutral balanced 164 tooth  flex plate that  is advertised for the C4 Aod 4R and when u marry the transmission to the engine check the clearance as I posted above and u have no worries.  

what kinda rpm's u planning on running this beast?  If u cut the weight off and not remove any material from flexplate it would have to be as neutral as it could be. That weight is only put on there to counter balance the crank throws. If u are afraid of it tho I would get a 0 balanced one but in the after market world that's no guarantee either. Another solution is cut the weight off and get it balanced by whoever balanced your engine. More money more money never ends does it.  I sure know that feeling. Good luck with your engine.

Just curious. are u planning on more power or more abuse than normally?  The stock axles usually do well on the street. Not so much on hard launches tho.. 

That looks like a guy sitting there with his hands on his head, with a headache ;)
Now try to get that image out of your head.

I have used the Dakota gauges, not on a mustang but another application, they worked fine. There is a control box that most of your inputs will be connected to and from the box the signals are transferred to the cluster via cat 5 cable. There's 4 inputs, ebrake, hi beam indicator, right and left turn that is a direct connection from existing wires from harness. I will also say that the oil pressure gauge stopped working and after a few diagnostic tests with a tec. at dakota he recommended returning the cluster for further inspection.   This was like over a year later and I thought there would be a charge but he told us the gauges were warranted for life.

I have since sold that car but I don't ever remember having to steer it back straight, if it didn't come back dead center it was by such a small amount I never noticed it. Turning radius was just like stock box, stop to stop. 

I am sure u have seen this guy around the forum used to be on alot. He did an excellent job I think. If u PM him I bet he could throw some numbers at you. 
New Center Console - The Garage - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite

I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.

Any sheet metal that might have been replace on the drivers side with after market panels could cause this issue. Check the length of all the panels on that side with the other side to see if there are any differences. I had an after market door once that was too short. DreamCar is right that would be my first move is to measure the wheel base on both sides, if the drivers side comes up short because the caster is set negative then check panels. 

Just press down the adjuster knob to release tension, and remove the cables.

I think the remote is too big in diameter to drill a bigger hole in the housing and pedestal. They made at least two types of remotes, one of which would allow you to pry the pot metal back from the ball at the end of each cable. Then remove the cables from the remote, string them through the housing and pedestal and reattach to the remote. Can  you show a closeup of the remote?  The cable looks longer than the drivers side to me, but someone else should be able to verify

There is ample volts at the battery- install relays and things should brighten things up. You are loosing it in the harness, light switch and connectors along the way. Stock low beams are 35w/35 w and the high beam is 50w. Your halogen high beam is probably 50w?
Don't skimp on the relays, get a good brand like Bosch, and 40A like 0332019157. You want short runs from the battery to relays to lights with heavy gauge wire, something like the attached
 
 
HEADLIGHTS.pdf

exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.