det0326

As far as I remember, the rivets are to attach the pull cups.
 
I do not think there is a template for the screws on the bottom of the door panels, because the old panels I have on my cars do not have the holes at same exact locations. The screws are about 1" inches from the bottom (and front and aft edges). Seems like they installed the panel, and drilled/screwed the panel and door at the same time.

Many people suggest using soldering irons.
This is NPDs kit. The screws with the cone shaped washers are for the bottom of the door panel where the carpet is. I'm not sure what the pop rivets are for- someone here will know.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-door-panel/104260?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bpanel%2Bfasteners%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969
ACC Auto Custom Carpet gets the highest marks, mass backed. The Essex cut pile is thick, dense and plush and the top of their line. When last I checked it was 46% cheaper at Rock Auto.
 

This guy forgot about installing the fender extension moldings before attaching them to the fenders. It can be done when the extension is bolted to the fender, but I'd rather stack BBs that do that again. 
 

Thanks for the compliment, sir. I'm currently living in Asheville, NC, but I'm originally from Franklin, NC. So, I'm familiar with Murphy. When they closed down Books A Million years ago here in Asheville I used to drive down to Anderson, SC to Books A Million just to buy Hot Rod magazines. Then they quit publishing about 18 different car magazines and I quit going to Anderson. They were a car show / fund raiser for a cop that had been injured a few weeks ago in Seneca that I was wanting to go to, but I was working that weekend so I wasn't able to make it.

I use to own this car and sold to a guy that I stay in touch with. He wants to change to 4R for a couple of reasons. First and foremost  the 4R has  stronger input shaft ( in stock form anyway ) than the AOD and with the electronic shifter will be able to change shift points to anything he wants. 

I use to own this car and sold to a guy that I stay in touch with. He wants to change to 4R for a couple of reasons. First and foremost  the 4R has  stronger input shaft ( in stock form anyway ) than the AOD and with the electronic shifter will be able to change shift points to anything he wants. 

Same!

Glad the site is back up n running!
 
Happy New Year everyone!

Hope everyone has a Happy New Year's and that this forum has a more stable year. :)

I'm running a 15x8 Magnum wheel with 4.5" backspace. My tire is a Mickey Thompson ET Street radial tire size 275/60/15. And the rear has been lowered a inch from factory height. No modifications have been done to my car to make the rear tires to fit. Below is a picture of my car, hope this helps.

I have the Magnum 500s on my car.  This is the size and the look.
Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear
Suspension Mods Sourced from Opentrackerracing :
1" UCA drop, 560 1" drop coil springs, 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators, 1 1/8" front sway bar kit, Roller spring perches, Standard Upper arms, Standard Lower arms, New Strut rod bushings, KYB Front shocks, Grab-A-Track rear shocks, 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit

Bob,  no holes; it is attached with a "S clip".

Actually, there’s no holes there and I use the S clip and it worked fine.
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Dave, see my post above ^^^

Pretty sure Midlife answered it. It's the highlighted print in the original quote. 

Try running with the gas cap open/off. This will eliminate fuel tank venting as the cause.

I have built 2 cars so far, a 1969 mach 1 and another I won't describe here, I fought a low vacuum condition on both because of high performance engine. I am with Bob, if I built another  one I would do manual disk on front drums on back. If you build a performance SBF with vacuum assist brakes you may wind up doing a lot of this 
 

The simplist and without mods would be that C4, if he rebuilt it correctly. While it may not be the optimal transmission, I'll all for getting these Mustangs on the road without necessarily building the perfect car. 
 

I drive my 69 daily and would recommend stock factory parts. Preferably from 1969. I put many Mustang parts on my 69 from newer Mustangs, but it's a lot of work and sometimes affects a few other parts and modifications. If you want front discs I'd use some from a 69. I have manual discs, which make it easy to stop. My brother has manual drums on his 69 SCJ which work as well as mine. Adding power brakes sounds simple enough, but is a lot of work and involves different parts, pedal, pedal hanger, booster etc.

Don't forget the FMX, that's what came behind the 351W in my Mach. They are strong and reliable and should have the same bolt pattern as a 302, since AODs fit all these blocks, the FMX should too. I'd stick a 4R70W on there, as its the last and most perfected version of the AOD- then you get overdrive.

These kits you are contemplating are from aftermarket manufacturers. Much of it will not fit without problems. The further you venture from a stock 69, they more problems you will encounter. Also, Ford build parts from newer models will not just drop-in and operate trouble free- they weren't designed for your car. You see a number of Coyote Mustangs for sale, and I believe it is because they are not satisfied with the end result. You end up with odd combinations that just don't work well together. 
These cars gave hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles. The technology is 50+ years old, but it still works fine. If you want to add an EFI, fine- but stick with an engine that was originally offered in the car; a six or SBF, or BB of the era. Adding aluminum heads is an easy way to increase horsepower. A Coyote just doesn't fit well in there in either width or height. You would need to get rid of the shock towers and revamp the entire front suspension.
You can upgrade to an AOD or 4R70W trans from newer Fords because they will bolt right up to a SBF, but even then it will need an aftermarket trans support and shortened drive shaft. This is a fairly easy upgrade and well worth it. The 4R70W will require an electronic transmission control, but the 4R70W is the last of the AOD line, and has all the problems fixed. Expect a custom exhaust, since the overdrive transmissions are wider than their predecessors. The linkage is different but can be modified to work well.
There are a huge number of carburetors available but be cautious what you stick on top of the engine as the 69 does not have a lot of clearance to the hood. These new carbs are the same height as the old Ford carbs, but aftermarket intake manifolds are all taller. Same goes with EFI, it isn't any taller but watch the manifold. For EFI you need a new fuel delivery system: tank, pump, fuel and return lines, and regulator to make it work. Don't expect anything electronic to last forever (like an EFI). Electronics aren't warrantied for longer than 10 years and equivalent parts are no longer made or supported in as few as 5 years. Heck, we hear all the time that brand new parts don't work.
To do all these things you need to be mechanically inclined. It will take determination and perseverance to get it all to work together reliably. You become the engineer. I'm not trying to discourage you, but you need to proceed with your eyes wide open. Advice is available, but you are about to go down a path that most people can not and should not travel. In the end it will be worth it.
Are you from Georgia? I'm northwest of Atlanta.

Don't know if it will work in your case or not but I have gained a little more clearance by removing the transmission mount bolts. With my foot put some pressure on tail of transmission and actually slide it over some. I was taking my header out bottom tho. If you just need a tiny bit more clearance at back part of engine it might allow you to remove from the top.   

Don't know if it will work in your case or not but I have gained a little more clearance by removing the transmission mount bolts. With my foot put some pressure on tail of transmission and actually slide it over some. I was taking my header out bottom tho. If you just need a tiny bit more clearance at back part of engine it might allow you to remove from the top.   

Here is another great site.
https://www.mustangtek.com/

I just skimmed through the web page.  What a great resource!  Thank you for posting it.  I have save it for future reference.