det0326

Are you talking about the area at the top of the seat back? If you are then there is a plastic or fiberglass piece that fills that area in but it would not have anything to do with the width of the lower part of the seat.

I personally don.t know but there is a member on here that I think has that same tranny update and I think a 351 what I am not sure of is if it is a Windsor or Cleveland. His name is Mike and members name is MikeStang you could PM him because I know from some of his treads he is having a time with headers.

Does anyone have there car at the state where the back bottom seat cushion is out but the interior quarter trim is still mounted. The area that I am interested in is where the interior quarter trim panel meets the floor pan. The trim seems to hit the lip at the rear torque box the one that runs perpendicular to the bracket that welds to the floor and the trim bolts to. I could trim a notch in it and it would probably fit but didn't know if this was the proper way to do it but I don't see any other way. This is a recently purchased quarter trim the one they call plastic but if you look at the back it looks like fiberglass. I didn't know if the originals where notched or not because I don't have any to compare. If anyone has there seat out and trim still in a picture would be worth a 1000 words. BTW this is 69 fastback Thanks for any help Dave

Now that would be a sweet ride. I'll bet it could lift the left front off the ground.

Don't know what to tell you about that except x2 on what Brian said. The little 289's has more spunk than one may think. Owned a couple of them myself. Really like your car I am leaning toward that same color. Nice.

What does it do when you fill it up? I don't know if I would even worry about it because if you only have 5 gallons when it gets to the E its time to get more gas. Glade you have it fixed and that CJP warrantied your tank and sender. So I guess if you are going to replace the tank its best to go with the stainless steel one. Which I will probably be doing when I get to that point.

Second thought this may not be a good test, this would insure that the markings on your pulley would be correct but the timing between the crank and cam could still possibly be off a little. If the timing chain was off a complete tooth do you think that it would even run? I've never intentionally tried it so I don't know but I personally don't think it would.

Nice headers, yes do let us know how they work out. They do look like they would have lots of ground clearance. If they miss everything else they should workout fine.

I prefer sportsroof69's method it is cleaner and effective. while you can adjust with the engine running if you can stand the mess be careful and turn the nut in small increments because it is possible to drive the valve in to the piston if you turn to fast and to much especially if your compression ratio is higher than stock. Also 1/4 turn from 0 lash should be plenty of preload because you could get to much if not careful. I think you could start anywhere adjusting the valves the reason for starting at # 1 is it's just easier to keep track of by knowing you are on compression stroke on that particular cylinder. Take your time and do it as sportsroof69 said and you'll do fine. Dave PS Forgot to mention if you use the engine not running method and the engine hasn't been run in a while crank it up for a couple of min. just incase some lifters has bleed down, it can happen. Also when starting never by mistake turn the nut down first this could cause the 0 lash point not to be accurate .

Could you take a piece of flexible wire or something and remove #1 spark plug, shape the wire so you can feel the piston coming up to tdc (making sure you are on compression stroke and not exhaust stroke) then when piston is all way up just before starting down check your timing mark. If it is on 0 timing chain should be OK. That way it might save you some work.

I have the panels ordered, thanks for all the help.

Thanks so much for the information. Also Wycked69 if I understand this right the most rearward hole in the panel is where this bracket will secure the panel. I don't have these panels yet (I need to order them) I also found out that I don't even have the old ones . Also it is my understanding that since I don't have the fold down seat there will not be anything behind this quarter trim panel so I should be able to simply put it in place with the other brackets that are still on the car and be able to see where this bracket needs to marked so I can weld to wheel housing. Hope I didn't confuse you as much as I confused myself but does this seem doable to you?

Wycked69 is this the panel that you and Mike speak of. And the rear most hole is the one that is secured with that bracket. Thanks Dave

Thanks all for your replies. Now that I know I guess I could maybe get the piece and locate the position where to weld it. Measurements to locate the brackets would be nice though .

My car had one of those panels that closed the opening sort of where the trap door goes and it was riveted in. I think it was just for safety to keep gasoline from entering the passenger compartment in the event of a rear end collision. I don't know if this was totally after market or if it was original to some cars.

Yes Mike that is the bracket that you have circled. Does the fold down and non fold down both get this f/glass panel because if so I guess I am missing the panel. I have the fixed rear seat and since the interior was already removed when I got the car I'm not sure what all I need but I am finding out that more things are missing than I first thought. Thanks for your info. Dave

Not sure if this will help you are not. I think it is a mid to late 70's 302 but it does have the water pump connection on the drivers side. If its the bracket you need I can take a picture tomorrow of it because it is off the engine now.

Thought I was the only retired Old Timer on this forum LiLMike

The attached image has a bracket near the bottom support bracket for the rear seat steel panel. What is this bracket for, is it for the fold down seat only? The reason I need to know is my car had no interior in it when I received it had already been stripped, and of course its a pain to try and figure out how to fit it all back. There could be a piece missing but I just don't see that there is anything that bolts to that bracket. I replaced the inner wheel housings where these brackets are welded to (one on each side) so if they are needed I will have to somehow locate where to weld them back on. Any help will be appreciated. Dave

Wouldn't hurt to try I guess but IMHO that amount of rust your talking about had to come from water in the tank. Do you think maybe your body shop took the tank out for some reason and left it out side? I just don't see how all this rust accumulated without being exposed to the elements. Really glade you found you problem but it is bad that it had to be already replace parts that sucks. Dave

Did you have the 1 piece floor pan installed or cut out and the patches installed. If it is the 1 piece, it is a pain sometime to get it to sit down on the frame rail extensions and the cross member too. I had to do a lot of massaging, bending and clamping everywhere I could to get mine to set down right. Then when plug welding the pan if you are not careful it will cause it to kick up somewhere else too. Did you say you had the cowl replaced also? If so did you get the windshield stops off you old cowl? Just thought I would mention because they are easy overlooked.

If you disconnect the wire at the sending unit and turn the ignition switch on, does the gauge stay the same or does it go to empty?

I would check the continuity at the tank sending unit by using an ohm meter connecting one lead to the terminal where the wire connects and the other lead to the metal case of the sending unit. What we are looking for would be a reading of around 60 ohms since you know the tank is empty. Check this before pulling the sending unit out may save you some work.

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