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About metalgraver

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/23/1960


  • Biography
    New 69 owner
  • Location
    Austin Tx
  • Interests
    Engraving, fishing, hunting, restor a 69
  • Occupation
    Plumbing estimator

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  1. As some of you know I am rebuilding a 69 Mach 1 that was pretty much a total rust bucket. ( See Rags to Riches ) So while I am going thru the car I am trying to make good choices for the reconstruction. The rear end that came with the car is a 9" 28 spline open differential with 3:00/1 gear ratio. Now I know that I could run this car just fine with this set up, but while I am rebuilding this car I was thinking that I should put a Posi-traction in it while I had the rear end out. I am going to have to take it apart and clean it up anyway. I am thinking about 17" tires. I have a 351W with a mild cam and Edlebrock RPM manifold with a T5 transmission. Not over 400 HP. It has been suggested that I put a Detroit Tru-Trac differential for the type of driving I will be doing, but Currie told me to go to the calculator to see what gear ratio I would want. Problem is I do not know enough to put the right RPM numbers in for the calculation. Here is the numbers they want to be able to calculate the gear ratio. What RPM should I be running at 70 MPH ? 1- RPM ? 2- Tire size- 17" 3- MPH- 70
  2. More work. I have crossed braced the car after I made sure that she was perfectly level and square. I need to put her on a rotisserie so I can weld the floor seams from the bottom side. As you can see in the first picture, I have finished the welds on the top side. While I have her on the rotisserie I will weld in the frame connectors and generally clean her up and epoxy primer and paint the underside.
  3. Hello everybody. I am trying to rebuild a 1969 Mach 1 that is pretty much a basket case, go to the topic, "Measurement" for some pictures of the car. Any way since this car was so far gone and most of the sheet metal needed to be replaced I decided not to try and keep the car original, even though it is an all matching numbers car, all original rust, that is. So I thought I would lower the stance and up grade the handling with a IFS from R&C which drops the front 2". Problem is I have not figured out how to drop the rear end to match unless I go with R&C`s 4 link rear suspension. Another chunk of $, so I was hoping to do it with leaf springs and shocks. Since I do not plan on running this car on a drag strip I think that with a sway bar and traction bars it should work fine. But since I really do not know what I am doing and learning as I go, I thought I would throw it out there for discussion. Her is a picture of a car that I like the stance on. It dose have the R&C IFC and 4 link system, but I am trying to get there for a little less $ in the back. Any body have any idea`s or have done this and can shoot me a picture of their car and how they did it.
  4. Very nice, thank you very much, I think I can build what I need out of some sheet metal to fit the curve. It is that flange on the inside that I am missing. That shaker on e-bay is going for around $900.00 but that is for a NOS 427/429. I think the Mach 1 are around $500.00. I thank my lucky stars for that hood and shaker for the $400.00. I went to go look at an add for the drive line. The guy went to Arizona and bought a 69 sport roof with a T5 transmission and a 351W rebuilt motor and drove it back to Austin. He had intentions of tearing it down and rebuilding it up to a 600HP pro Turing car, so he did not want the 351W, transmission, drive shaft, headers, pipes, hood and shaker. He was asking $1200.00 for the motor, T5 transmission, drive shaft, headers and exhaust system which I jumped on because my car did not have a drive line, exhaust system or headers, the motor was going to need a complete overhaul and the original transmission is a C4. He then offered to sell me the shaker and hood for another $400.00 which I new what hoods and shakers cost and the hood on my car was all rotted out on the front lip. So I made a little up for the pile of rust I payed way to much for. Lucky for me when the guy went to pick up the car he was pulling it up onto the trailer by the stone guard and half way up it came loose and careened of the trailer and thru a fence. It put a big ole scratch down the side and dented one of the 1/4 panel extensions. The insurance Co. gave me $3000.00 to fix it, which I promptly used to replace the cowling and floors, paid some one to do that and got screwed there also. So now I am doing this whole build myself. Started off just wanting something that I could do some minor work but ended up with a total rebuild. I have never done any body or paint work and have rebuilt a 390 twice in a 69 chevy SS and drove it like a kid, blew it up and sold it. Thankfully there are some great guys on sites like this one that I can ask questions. This build is going to be in the $40,000.00 range by the time I am done and that's doing it all my self, paint and cost of car included. Here is a picture of the car before the guy dropped it off the trailer.
  5. Some more pictures of the rust rot on the A pillars. This is why I am going to just cut them out, there is to much rot to try and fix.
  6. Thank you Brian, Dave and RPM very much. I did measure last night and I have it close. I will make some small adjustments tonight and start welding in the aprons. I set my hood on there last night, with no hinges and noticed that the driver side of the hood was bowed up more than the passenger side. Is this common and is it some thing I can fix? I was thinking I could apply some downward pressure on that side to straiten it out. The hood came off of a car from Arizona, got the hood and a shaker for $400.00. Do you guys know anybody that needs a shaker. I am living in the Austin Texas area now. I graduated from Livermore High in 1978. Dave I noticed that you are working on your car and I was wondering if you could send me some pictures of the wing window area. I am going to need to do some work there in the corner before I put my 1/4 panels back on and would like some pictures to reference. Here are a few more pictures of the rust I am dealing with. The first picture is the back window top corner. It is like this on both sides. The second picture is the A pillar at the top corner of the windshield on both sides. The back window areas I have already rebuilt but the front A pillar I am going to cut out both pillars and weld new ones in. It is going to be the last thing I do before I epoxy the whole car.
  7. After I get the back all welded up and the front radiator and aprons welded on I need to replace both A pillars above the cowling. I had a guy out in Carolina cut them out of a car he had out back and mail them to me. When I get that done I will need to put some filler where the 1/4 panels meet the roof. I am leaning towards, "All Metal filler" after I shoot the car with epoxy. Anybody use this stuff?
  8. Bob, I think the back would be the critical point because of the hood hinges. The front will be dictated by the radiator support, but to make sure everything is fitting properly, give me both front and back. Brian gave me a dimension of 18-3/16th but I do not know if it is the front or the back. Can you also give me the inside to inside dimension from the right side to left side up front. I have everything screwed in, but I want to make double sure every thing is fitting properly before I weld it all in. I have a sister that lives in Bakersfield, I went to Livermore High in the 70`s.
  9. Here is another picture of what I did to make the fit tighter at the wheel wells. and a picture with the 1/4 panels screwed in place to check the fitment. I cut out the flange and trimmed the curve back until the wheel well fit tight making sure to leave enough room to weld a flange back in.
  10. Hello everybody, I have been dismantling my rust bucket for the past 6 months or so but I am now starting to put her back together. There are so many measurement's needed that I did not get them all and before I start welding things back together I want to make sure the measurements are correct. I have replaced all of the sheet metal up front, fire wall, cowling, outer cowlings, fender aprons and the radiator support. I also pulled out the shock towers because the prior owners had cut holes on both sides of each tower to get access to the grease fitting. The passenger tower had split across so I have decided to go ahead and install a IFS by R&C and do away with the towers. I took everything out of the front and forgot to measure the height from the top of the frame rail to the top of the fender aprons. Can some one take a measurement of this for me. Here is a picture installing the trunk floor with the wheel wells just screwed in for fitment. I had to rework the inside corner on both sides to make the wheel wells pull in tight so there would be no gap between the trunk floor and the wheel well and be able to mate the flange up tight.
  11. Last time I wrote something on here I had just put the car up on a cart and pulled the rear end out. I have now come a long way and have actually started putting her back together. I found out a few things along the way. This was a one owner car out of Florida, and at one time she was hit on the rear passenger side. The frame was not bent so she is still square but the wheel well had crinkles in it and there was brazing on the B-pillar. Because she was from Florida she was a total rust bucket and I found this all out the hard way. I was suppose to only have to do some minor repairs and put the carburetor and drive shaft in and she would be a drivable car and probably would have been for some one not as particular as I am. I have since pulled off most of the sheet metal and started replacing it with all new parts. I have started putting the trunk floor back in and just need to weld the seam between the new floor pans and trunk floor. I have put in a new fire wall and need to finish the seam between the new floor pan and fire wall. Replaced the cowling, passenger outer rocker panel, and both outer cowlings. I have also deleted the air vents at the kick panels and welded in a solid panel. I have The 1/4 panels, tail light panel, wheel wells and trunk brace screwed in right now for fitment. As soon as I finish the trunk floor seam I will weld in the rest of the rear end.
  12. Bob, Iam saying that after spending a lot of time researching the different options out there and the costs, I have decided to go ahead and spend a few more dollars to get the best ride I can. Of coarse this is just for the front, there is also the rear end that needs to be addressed. I think it all comes down to what you really want and how much you have to spend. My opinion.
  13. Thanks for all the input. I have looked at almost everything out there from just a simple rebuild of existing components, replacing the springs, 1" Shelby drop, roller perches etc. to the full IFS kits with racket pinion. For a little more money I think Iam leaning towards the Rod & custom RC-107 set up, full adjustable coil overs with the rack and pinion steering. Of all the things that can be upgraded I think that the handling and steering is the most important, but that's my opinion. I want a car that I can drive for 4 hours and enjoy the ride and when I get to where Iam going I do not want to feel like I just wrestled a bear for 4 hours. My wife wants to drive the car also so this will make it more enjoyable for her. It is more expensive but I do not want to sacrifice enjoyment for a few dollars. Any body else have the rack and pinion steering?
  14. Any body put an Independent front suspension in their 69? such as what Rod & Custom or Heidts sells. I need to rebuild the whole front suspension and after looking at all new stock parts and disk brakes, I will spend almost as much on that or the coil overs as a complete IFS will cost. The added benefit with the IFS is the rack and pinion steering. Not sure though. I want a lower stance than stock and really nice handling for the street and hwy. Let me know what you guys have and some pics of that low ride.
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