MN69Grande

Funny I watched that video 2 dozen times at least to prepare for the job.  What a huge hassle.  All the doors were frozen shut, the gaskets had turned to dust,  the fiberglass needed repair.  Nightmare.  Glad to hear you like the Classic Air kit.

If that's the case you can get a lot of power out of a 351c.  It might we worth exploring your options on the motor you have before switching platforms.  Also if it is about the reliability of EFI.  There are great kits that can replace your Carb without an ECU now days.

I'm not sure this is the controller Ford used.  Ford used a resistor, temp sender, 2 relays, and other bits to make the fan 2 speed.  When I look at the controller you posted, but on Summit Racing and Amazon, it says universal.  This controller looks like it is a relay that kicks on once a temperature (set by the owner) is reached but is just a single speed.  Unless I'm reading something wrong.  I don't think it is a bad way to go if you don't want to spend the money on a more advanced controller.  I would note the reviews on Summit for the part is 2.8 of 5 and Amazon is better at 3.7 of 5.
Also you'll need to use some kind of t-connector I think to run a gauge and this controller.

I love the DynoMax VTs.  They really cut the drone down at cruise but have great sound under load.  Also they are decently subdued at idle.  I had flowmaster turbo 50s which were quieter in general but had a drone that really got to me after an hour or so.  Now I feel I have the best of both worlds.  Open it up and you get a nice loud exhaust ease off and it gets more reasonable.

its a complicated question but i was also considering mileage when i suggested a 331 instead of something bigger . in general  the bigger the engine the lower the mileage so the 331 will likely get worse mileage than a 302 but it will have more tire burning power.
unless you have fuel injection and/or an overdrive, you will likely get around 14 mpg with a mildly built 331 at 100 - 110 kph.
 

There sure is a lot of Buzz around this event...

Hope these help.  Sorry about the color on the one photo.  Used my cell.  Like I said dremmel, dremmel, dremmel, and test, test, test.  Good luck.

Started her up and started the process of tuning the Carb after taking it apart and making some changes over the winter.  Hopefully She'll be on the road next weekend at least for a short test drive.   Also cleaned up some of the wiring for the Gear Vendors.

Thanks for all the hard work keeping this thing alive BSWOR.  I think it's a big part of most members' day/week.

Thanks for all the hard work keeping this thing alive BSWOR.  I think it's a big part of most members' day/week.

Oh man Mike you have a fun job ahead of you with those leaf spring bolts. I don't know what you have to use but I cut them out with a sawzall. It took a while. I suggest using new blades though. That would probably make it a less sucky job than when I did it. Have fun getting in there!

I saw something similar to this last year on Might Car Mods.  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  Looks nice.  I don't think you need to hide but that is me.
 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiejr3psdTSAhXEHJAKHfckAEAQyCkIHjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dx28_c9QZMFM&usg=AFQjCNHkFoDsxdAvoKceNR93TbvJ_l3EDQ&sig2=793xrl0SWFjWjjRI23q10A

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

I've got one too. I purchased a controller from DCC. It's a nice setup but it take 6-7 weeks to receive. There are other more basic controllers on Summit that would do the job.

Well I just got the notification on Power Tour 2017.  Unfortunately the dates seem a little later this year and I've already promised the wife a trip to Iceland (where I don't think there is a single Mustang).  But for those interested here is a link to the page with venues and dates.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-hot-rod-power-tour-dates-locations/
 
https://www.raceit.com/Register/?event=39043&_wcsid=E1D73A3F09C81307F97239A76F7FEACCDCAFC66E5CC99422

Well I just got the notification on Power Tour 2017.  Unfortunately the dates seem a little later this year and I've already promised the wife a trip to Iceland (where I don't think there is a single Mustang).  But for those interested here is a link to the page with venues and dates.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-hot-rod-power-tour-dates-locations/
 
https://www.raceit.com/Register/?event=39043&_wcsid=E1D73A3F09C81307F97239A76F7FEACCDCAFC66E5CC99422

3-4 years ago, in the final rush to get the car back on the road, I swapped out the old Midland Brake boosters with the Bendix style.  Simply because I couldn't find the Midland style in stock with anyone and sending it out for 10 weeks to be rebuilt seemed too long as we were so close to getting on the road. I'm not sure what Master Cylinder we got, but knowing the person that ordered the part I'm assuming he did it by using the part number stamped on the one we pulled from the vehicle.  Looking at Napa's site tonight I see different listings for W/ and w/o Bendix Casting. 
 
The brakes have a ton of travel on the pedal before stopping, and they've been bled a number of times to every wheel.  I'm thinking I need to at a minimum adjust the power brake booster pin.  But now looking at Napa's website, would it be stupid to pay $45 dollars and make sure I'm matching a W/ Bendix Casting to the Bendix Booster?  They stop OK but the pedal feel is horrible.  Also to note I did the CSRP Kelsey Hayes style swap but they stop great you just have no feel.  I mean a panic stop will put anyone not wearing a seat belt into the windshield.

3-4 years ago, in the final rush to get the car back on the road, I swapped out the old Midland Brake boosters with the Bendix style.  Simply because I couldn't find the Midland style in stock with anyone and sending it out for 10 weeks to be rebuilt seemed too long as we were so close to getting on the road. I'm not sure what Master Cylinder we got, but knowing the person that ordered the part I'm assuming he did it by using the part number stamped on the one we pulled from the vehicle.  Looking at Napa's site tonight I see different listings for W/ and w/o Bendix Casting. 
 
The brakes have a ton of travel on the pedal before stopping, and they've been bled a number of times to every wheel.  I'm thinking I need to at a minimum adjust the power brake booster pin.  But now looking at Napa's website, would it be stupid to pay $45 dollars and make sure I'm matching a W/ Bendix Casting to the Bendix Booster?  They stop OK but the pedal feel is horrible.  Also to note I did the CSRP Kelsey Hayes style swap but they stop great you just have no feel.  I mean a panic stop will put anyone not wearing a seat belt into the windshield.

3-4 years ago, in the final rush to get the car back on the road, I swapped out the old Midland Brake boosters with the Bendix style.  Simply because I couldn't find the Midland style in stock with anyone and sending it out for 10 weeks to be rebuilt seemed too long as we were so close to getting on the road. I'm not sure what Master Cylinder we got, but knowing the person that ordered the part I'm assuming he did it by using the part number stamped on the one we pulled from the vehicle.  Looking at Napa's site tonight I see different listings for W/ and w/o Bendix Casting. 
 
The brakes have a ton of travel on the pedal before stopping, and they've been bled a number of times to every wheel.  I'm thinking I need to at a minimum adjust the power brake booster pin.  But now looking at Napa's website, would it be stupid to pay $45 dollars and make sure I'm matching a W/ Bendix Casting to the Bendix Booster?  They stop OK but the pedal feel is horrible.  Also to note I did the CSRP Kelsey Hayes style swap but they stop great you just have no feel.  I mean a panic stop will put anyone not wearing a seat belt into the windshield.

3-4 years ago, in the final rush to get the car back on the road, I swapped out the old Midland Brake boosters with the Bendix style.  Simply because I couldn't find the Midland style in stock with anyone and sending it out for 10 weeks to be rebuilt seemed too long as we were so close to getting on the road. I'm not sure what Master Cylinder we got, but knowing the person that ordered the part I'm assuming he did it by using the part number stamped on the one we pulled from the vehicle.  Looking at Napa's site tonight I see different listings for W/ and w/o Bendix Casting. 
 
The brakes have a ton of travel on the pedal before stopping, and they've been bled a number of times to every wheel.  I'm thinking I need to at a minimum adjust the power brake booster pin.  But now looking at Napa's website, would it be stupid to pay $45 dollars and make sure I'm matching a W/ Bendix Casting to the Bendix Booster?  They stop OK but the pedal feel is horrible.  Also to note I did the CSRP Kelsey Hayes style swap but they stop great you just have no feel.  I mean a panic stop will put anyone not wearing a seat belt into the windshield.

3-4 years ago, in the final rush to get the car back on the road, I swapped out the old Midland Brake boosters with the Bendix style.  Simply because I couldn't find the Midland style in stock with anyone and sending it out for 10 weeks to be rebuilt seemed too long as we were so close to getting on the road. I'm not sure what Master Cylinder we got, but knowing the person that ordered the part I'm assuming he did it by using the part number stamped on the one we pulled from the vehicle.  Looking at Napa's site tonight I see different listings for W/ and w/o Bendix Casting. 
 
The brakes have a ton of travel on the pedal before stopping, and they've been bled a number of times to every wheel.  I'm thinking I need to at a minimum adjust the power brake booster pin.  But now looking at Napa's website, would it be stupid to pay $45 dollars and make sure I'm matching a W/ Bendix Casting to the Bendix Booster?  They stop OK but the pedal feel is horrible.  Also to note I did the CSRP Kelsey Hayes style swap but they stop great you just have no feel.  I mean a panic stop will put anyone not wearing a seat belt into the windshield.

Well I just got the notification on Power Tour 2017.  Unfortunately the dates seem a little later this year and I've already promised the wife a trip to Iceland (where I don't think there is a single Mustang).  But for those interested here is a link to the page with venues and dates.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-hot-rod-power-tour-dates-locations/
 
https://www.raceit.com/Register/?event=39043&_wcsid=E1D73A3F09C81307F97239A76F7FEACCDCAFC66E5CC99422

Well I just got the notification on Power Tour 2017.  Unfortunately the dates seem a little later this year and I've already promised the wife a trip to Iceland (where I don't think there is a single Mustang).  But for those interested here is a link to the page with venues and dates.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-hot-rod-power-tour-dates-locations/
 
https://www.raceit.com/Register/?event=39043&_wcsid=E1D73A3F09C81307F97239A76F7FEACCDCAFC66E5CC99422

I would in my lowly opinion say he already has one of the best carbs made after he watches the Summit Holley carb videos he'll fully understand how to tune and setup the carb for his car. He could purchase a jetting & secondary vacuum spring for under $100.00 and get excellent performance for street driving & re-tune it when he wants more power in less than 1/2 hour.
 
The one thing he didn't mention is if he has a single or dual plenum manifold, if it's a single plenum he might want to change manifolds.
 
Just my opinion everyone has their own thoughts on which is the best.