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Everything posted by MN69Grande

  1. I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.
  2. Saw an ad for a rolled over 88 Fox Body GT 5.0 Convertible. I'm thinking about building a Factory Five Mark IV roadster (I hope people don't mind me posting here I always like the advice provided). The ad states the car has 36k original miles, that he rolled it 20 years ago. The price is $1200. I really only want the Engine to rebuild, the rear end, and possibly the spindles. The car is a disaster so I'd have to find a place to take it apart and haul it in for scrap. My garage is currently full, but I might be able to use a shop at my dads. I'd still want to change the rear axels out to 5 lug but Factory Five wants $2600 just for the rear axel assembly. Any thoughts on the price? Second question would a stock 8.8 take ~415 hp with similar torque? Anyone interested in the AOD? How much should I ask if I pull it and sell it?
  3. I dont know what pumps he used. But I would take it out, clean it, and look for any stamping with a Part number. I believe Randall's racks were gm parts. So if can find a part number u can have a parts store look it up in their reference guide. Most likely they can get you a new pump pretty cheap. I think most the main components in that kit were over the counter.
  4. I've come up with the following plan to deal with the Corona Virus. I'm telling my wife we need to practice 'social distancing' and I'll be in the garage for the next 6 weeks. I've stock piled all the major supplies of shop towels, pumice soap, and beer (probably Dos Equis). I've moved the big screen into the garage for news updates and old Chevy Chase films. And she should be on the look out for emergency supplies that will be marked Summit Racing, Jegs, CJ Pony Parts, and NPD. With a little luck and some time the car and I will get through this pandemic with some decent upgrades completed. I'll let you all know how it goes.
  5. For the first time in nearly 25 years I have working courtesy lights, clock, map light, and cigarette lighter. It's funny how these smaller things make the car feel way more complete. Also I pulled out a poorly wired remote door lock setup that never did work right.
  6. IMO without changing at least the CAM both of the carbs are more than you engine needs. If you aren't planning any more upgrades I'd go on the lower side with the Eddie. If a CAM and Mild - Medium heads are in the future I'd go with the Holley 570, this is plenty of carb for most 302 applications. But another option that might save you money is a Holley 2300 2 bbl. These can be had with 500 CFM and you wouldn't need to change your intake. If you want to see what you are running now - look at your stock carb you can find out the venturi size and then use the below to determine what the factory CFM is. "These following numbers are for Motorcraft/Autolite carbs. This number can be found on the side of the float bowl, right behind the accelerator pump rod, inside of a circle. The number on the right corresponds with the cfm rating on the left. Thanks to chas1234 for these numbers. The first numbers are the venturi size, the second is the corresponding cfm. These numbers are for 2BBL carbs only. Number = CFM .98 = 190 1.01 = 240 1.02 = 245 1.08 = 287 1.14 = 300 1.21 = 351 1.23 = 356 1.33 = 424" - this is from a truck forum but same parts on our cars https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/116072-autolite-motorcraft-cfm-ratings-and-general-info.html My guess is in the middle somewhere since the same carbs were used on bigger engines than 302s (like 400s) which would need more CFMs.
  7. +1 on changing over to solid type adjustables with a joint. I got mine from Rosehill performance and they made a huge difference. I think you can't go wrong with open tracker or street or tracks either. TCP also used to sell them I think. If you really want a change go with roller spring perches and lower control arms.
  8. I have a DCC it took a long time to get. I'm looking at my emails and I ordered/paid for it Mid June and received it mid August. So basically 2 months. It's worked great the 3 years I've had it. They are notorious for not communicating between sale and shipment. After I received the unit and installed it response time was fine on support issues. If you are on a time crunch to get your Fan setup working you might want to look at alternatives if not I'd give it a couple more weeks. Good luck I know how frustrating waiting on parts can be.
  9. I second or third the heddman's. I've been running them 7 years. Mine are ceramic coated. They have been pretty good to work with even with an after market rack and pinion. I have run the quiter versions of flow masters (50 series) and now run dynomax VTs. The flow masters had a good mellow tone without a lot of drown. The dynomaxes are more fun because they are quiter when cruising but when u stand on the throttle a valve opens under pressure and they make a lot more noise. Not as much as magna flow but it is fun in a tunnel or by stone walls.
  10. Dash Circuit Board and Voltage regulator https://www.cjponyparts.com/circuit-board-without-tach-1969-1970/p/DCB1/ and https://www.cjponyparts.com/constant-voltage-regulator-1969-1973/p/HW1567/ I was having issues with the fuel gauge and bought these for trouble shooting. They didn't help I ended up replacing the actual gauge. So now I have and extra circuit board and regulator. If some needs them PM me. ~$84 at CJ Pony Parts, sell them for $35 + shipping.
  11. Saw this on you tube. I thought they did a nice job. Car looks great.
  12. HAHa. I meant to come and look at this forum when the announcement was made about this thing and forgot. Pretty much what I expected. I think true Mustang enthusiasts will hate this thing no matter how good it looks (which it doesn't look great) or how well it will perform (the stats actually look decent). Electric - Bah, Four doors - NOOOOOO!!!!, SUV ---- Forget about it!, oh and it doesn't really look like a Mustang - plus that huge flat running horse on the front is offensive. I have no hate for Electric cars or self driving cars. In fact a full on electric 2 door sports car Mustang could be cool if done right (the Teslas put up amazing performance figures and most of those are family mobiles). Someday I'll probably have an electric car. But I still love the old stuff too and hope we are allowed to continue to play with them and drive them on public roads in the futures... and I suppose get gas for them once the majority of cars are electric. But for most sheeple out there a car is just a utility or appliance, the marketing folks know this and are trying to jump start Fords move to electric so they are using the massive good will Mustangs have to do it. We'll hate it but - it will probably work. I thought this was an interesting analysis of the whole thing.
  13. Hi stang-R-me. I ordered and installed your insert. It works very well. One of my favorite mods. People at the local show think I'm nuts when i say 'let me show you the fuel filler it's a neat trick'. I used a punch to hold it in position then JB welded it. It's held for 2 summers and looks as strong as when I put it in.
  14. I have a similar kit as Mike65(Installed about 2012). They work pretty well. But I will say I did have one caliper have a seal fail on me already. Could be my driving though. The nice thing is I could get the parts from Napa to fix it. They can get similar calipers, pads, etc as this was optional equipment on a few cars from I think 1965 through 1968.
  15. If you are going with a rack and pinion most manufactures have instructions/other parts for the iDidit columns. I have a Unisteer Rack and love it, but I kept the stock column. https://www.unisteer.com/1965-1970-mustang/search-by-vehicle/ford/65-70-mustang.html
  16. I second barnett468's suggestion at looking at the torque converter specs if you didn't rebuild the engine with stock parts. In high school I put a performance build in with a stock converter with a stock transmission and had to stand on the brakes to keep the car from moving at a light. Normally you can either talk to a good transmission shop or email performance torque converter manufactures with your engine and rear end specs and they can tell you the correct stall to use. Also if you have a modified engine I would recommend getting an aftermarket tach. They are easy to install with no modification to the car. Just run 3 wires. I've got one strapped to the steering column. The more information you get about how your car is running the better you can trouble shoot and maintain the car. @Ridge Runner I also thought he was calling FMX guys jerks! I always found FMX owners pretty decent folk :)
  17. You need to subscribe to MotorTrendOnDemand.com to see the whole episode. But a year or maybe 2 ago the RoadKill crew found a 69 Mustang in a junk yard in Colorado. They got it running for a couple miles and that was the end of the first episode. Then in another video they slapped another motor into it and killed that motor. The Frieburger sent it off for rust repair and now they are putting in a good Drive Train. I'm kind of excited to see end result. It sounds like they want to make it a reliable daily but leave all the patina and bit of the nastiness of 30+ years in the junkyard. Just for fun I sent them an email about the site.. who knows maybe they'll start a build thread (probably not).
  18. Yeah every couple years an article or two pops up about these. The production numbers were supposedly really low. I read once only 50 of them sold. I think they had strange gearing like 2.30 and a high stall converter. 0-60 in the mid 13 second range. At least they tried something.
  19. I think foothilltom is looking for the tree/port in the back of the engine bay behind the carb on the drivers side. The parts mike65 is showing are a tempurater switch that changes the vacuum advance on the distributor from manifold to port vacuum based on engine temp. It goes in the front just behind the thermostat housing. I blocked this off with a brass plug and run the ported vacuum from my holley to the distributor. Not sure where to get the part foothilltom is looking for but you could try somengood salvage yards. West coast cougars seem to always a ton of weird ford and mercury parts. Here is what I found on their site: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/vacuum-fitting-brass-intake-manifold-used-1968-1969-mercury-cougar-/-1968-1969-ford-mustang.html?attribs=88 Also if you search 'Vacuum Fitting' on Summit some generic ones popup. A final option is a standard brass fitting from the hardware store that screws into the manifold with a large out, hose clamp, and finally a series of plastic tees from the auto store.
  20. I had similar issues as well with new shocks, springs, larger wheels and tires. I ended up having rock hard bushings in my spring perches and strut rods. As well as a bent strut rod. This kept the wheels from traveling correctly and added a bit of a wiggle. Not really a bump steer. I replaced them with roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods from opentracker. It really improved my handling. Though I also added roller LCAs as well. Either way if these parts are worn out they are probably worth looking at to replace with stock or upgrade. Perches https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-high-performance-1965-1973/p/CSS4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/ Strut rods or bushings https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushing-kit-1967-1973/p/SRB8/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushings-heavy-duty-1967-1973/p/SRB10/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-passenger-side-1968-1973/p/SR3/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-driver-side-1968-1973/p/SR4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods-1968-1973/ LCA https://opentrackerracing.com/product/drag-racing-roller-lower-control-arm-1968-1973-mustang/
  21. When I had an Edelbrock we modified a 302 2v bracket just slightly to deal with the vacuum on the back similar to above. just took some metal out really. For the kick down we cut and extended the little tab of metal that connects to carb. However Holley now has a kick down extension you can buy. Funny though I didn't need the extension with a Holley 4 bbl just with the Edelbrock. But I eventually went with a lokar cable and bracket. Much happier the stock cable would bind for me. Here is the kick down extension https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-41 This bracket came up when I was looking for the kickdown link. It looks like it might be worth considering https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1419
  22. You are correct of course. But all of this on my install was measured and the angles are well within tolerances. One reason I used a shop theat specializes in drive trains for the install was to avoid such a scenario but plenty of people have installed GVs with good success. The shop also created a new custom and balanced drive shaft for a reasonable price too. My current set up has zero vibration. So really I think the note here is to make sure your angles are with in tolerances and you get a good balanced drive shaft.
  23. I love mine. 302/347 built c4 and 3.5 trutrak. I did the rear gears and GV at the same time and get almost the same rpms and the stock 2.8 gearing and c4. All it required was slight modification to the transmission cross member to lower the transmission like 1/2 in and a new drive shaft. I had the shop that did the rear gears put in the GV( and inspect it as it was used) and I wired it. I didn't like the foot switch or main on/off switches. So I found a USB power supply for screwing in under the dash on amazon pulled the guts on and put in a round on/off. Hid it right under the windshield wiper switch by angling it a little behind the center console. I then used a motorcycle handle bar mount on/off switch and attached it to the gear shifter of the activation. I did have to use some rubber gripping material to get this to work as handlebars are larger in diameter than the gear shifter. The biggest choice will be deciding where to mount the controller. I 3m trim double sided taped it to the bottom of the ac/heater box. That's held for 3 years. Another guy in MN did his own on his 1970 with a Cleveland and C6 and also loves it. Its fun to be able to switch gears manually. He uses it to drag race. He's burnt out 3 C6s and not hurt the GV unit. My recommendation would be if your transmission Is week or high milage or worn out. Do some kind of built AOD swap (I had looked at silver fox). However if everything else is good do the GV. On a side note the GVs keep about 70% of their value. So it can always be pulled and sold.
  24. Hey mid-life welcome back! Hope life is getting back to normal. Danno thanks for the offer this weekend is crazy I'll send a PM to see if we can connect.
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