69RavenConv

Hard to tell from the pic but that doesn't look like an OEM vent. Looks like a salvage part and the knobs may be the directional controls for the vanes? Then again, maybe not. Found this pic of a '70 on the web..

Here's the original thread for anyone interested.

Can you post a schematic? We all know Ford loved to run every circuit in the car through the turn signal switch, so that part doesn't surprise me. Wild guess is that run-only means the circuit is energized only when the ignition switch is in run, so you'd only get the warning light when the engine running, not in accessory (or off, of course) On the other hand, I may have no idea what I'm talking about.

To you as well!

Just click on the icon in post #1 and you can download it yourself. Welcome to the site.

Maybe stating the obvious here but modern mini-starters have an integral solenoid, so if you're still using the stock solenoid on the inner fender, you've actually got 2 solenoids and you have to wire things accordingly, like Mach I Driver's diagram illustrates..

Old thread but for the record my 69 (manual top) has those latches. I agree the latches are for manual tops only as they are not only unnecessary on a power top but trying to raise a power top with a mechanical latch in place would be, um, problematic. I can see a lot of unhappy customers returning to their Ford dealership for repairs back in the day. Curious why they were deleted in 1970, unless they just figured it wasn't necessary to secure the top in the down position.

And all the folks I meet that had a '69 just like mine with the 289 in it...

That's a nice stable of vintage iron for sure. Love the vintage vanity plate.

No, not true. Ford made them on the assembly line. There are many differences between a 'vert and a hardtop, much more than just cutting the roof off.

Thanks, wouldn't be the first time I wasted money on a near miss :) Glad I posted the part number although it occurs to me I should have asked first. Hmmm. [edit:] I pulled the data sheets, the pins I specified are for 18-24 ga wire; the ones Midlife listed will take 14-20 ga. wire. Otherwise they're the same length and diameter. So mine are ok for the 18 ga. wires in the harness; Midlife's are ok for all the wires, so those are the parts to buy.

I also found this at the local big box store. Way more convenient for covering the rivets on the turn signal switch than trying to get tape to stay put. Lifetime supply, too

Ok, backup lights actually work - 4-pin firewall connector wasn't fully seated after troubleshooting. Right rear brake/flasher filament problem points to turn signal switch since swapping left and right wires in the connector moves the problem from one side to the other. Bought some new pins, a pin pusher and crimper. Plan on removing the pins from the mating connector to buzz, inspect, and repair as needed. Still have the old switch to use as a mule also. I will figure this out before the snow flies :) If anyone is interested (and so I can remember, too): Male pins (TE AMP 61116-1) Female pins (TE AMP 61314-1) Pusher (don't worry about it being a GM tool, it works great for the Mate-n-Lok style pins. Cheap on eBay. Midlife says the innards from a BIC pen work, too) Crimper (any Mate-n-Lok compatible 18 ga. to 24 ga. crimper should work)

I think I wired mine like the original post only I moved the heavy red wire to the other side of the apron solenoid, in parallel with the yellow. I'll check tomorrow, not that it matters :)

I actually have mine wired this way and it works, as you would expect. (I like that it looks stock, for whatever that's worth) You're essentially running two solenoids in series and it's easy enough to bypass the old solenoid in the circuit if needed.

Update for those following along at home. After taking time off to tend to a flooded basement and all the joy that goes with it, I've got time to revisit the Mustang again. Systematically troubleshooting, I've found out that headlights, taillights, parking and side marker lights all work. Same for interior and dash lights, wipers and radio. Car starts and runs fine. Backup lights and right rear flasher/brake do NOT work. Emergency flashers did not work but discovered fuse #7 was blown - replaced it and flashers came back except right rear. Swapped flasher wires in turn signal connector and problem moved to left rear. Seems to vindicate wiring to tail lights. Determined with a meter that backup light switch is closing properly with shifter in Reverse. 12V is present in underhood connector with key on, yet lights don't illuminate. Seems like a clue. There's no obvious connection between BU lights and brake light but something's goofy... Ran out of time but will continue troubleshooting as time allows. Special thanks to Mach 1 Driver for the Real Schematic. So much nicer than that awful 2-page wiring mess that Ford gave us.

Back in college, I remember the machines that punched the cards collected all the little punch-outs in a waste basket inside the cabinet. We called them "beta particles". If you dumped a bunch of beta particles in somebody's car, there wasn't a vacuum cleaner made that could get them all out. Or so I've heard.

Hi Sam, The fuel sender is really just a variable resistor that reads something like 73 ohms on empty and 12 ohms on full. The voltage from your CVR across this resistance determines how far the needle deflects. I hear bending the arm can work , I've read about people using an old tank with water in it to calibrate the bend prior to install. Or you can just use trial and error which doesn't seem like fun to me. I suspect all replacement senders will be less than perfect out of the box. I do believe the sender can be removed with the tank in the car. Some people claim replacing the OEM CVR can help. The OEM is a bimetallic device that delivers a weird pulse width modulated average voltage around 6VDC while modern solid state devices give you a solid 5VDC. Good luck and let us know what you find. Others who know more about this will undoubtedly have more/better advice. I always fill up above a quarter tank and am not too concerned about accuracy beyond "not empty/empty"

May not be the switch after all. Put the new one in and still having trouble. Deduced that the right rear brake light/flasher filament is a problem. Step on the brake (or activate the flasher) and there appears to be excessive current flowing through that conductor, which is routed through the turn signal switch as we know. More to come as I troubleshoot. On the bright side, I got to take my steering wheel off and remove my radio, heater controls and flashers looking for problems. Probably shouldn't have washed the car; everything worked great while it was dirty.

No, it doesn't appear to be an overload/melting problem, although I still run the incandescent 1157 bulbs on the 4 corners (lots of LEDs elsewhere). There appears to be a slight discoloration under the turn signal stalk so I'm thinking my pre-flight checkout may have been aggressive enough to move a rivet too close to ground. I did not have any insulation there but I will on the new install. I've got a new one on order from NPD but of course I missed all the 4th of July sale prices :)

Certainly could be, or Hux's car is a '70. I don't know for sure.

Good advice Midlife and I honestly don't remember if I did that the last time I replaced the switch but I will this time for sure. What is odd is that it has worked flawlessly for about 4 years and I exercised all the signals prior to departing; they worked, then failed . I'm an electrical engineer so I should know what I'm doing (insert laugh track). I'll pull it apart tomorrow and see what smoked.

Washed and polished the 'Stang for a little 4th of July cruise today, checked the brakes and lights, and all systems were go - until I get to the end of my driveway. My wife goes "the steering column is smoking!" At least I was still home so I didn't have to deal with traffic without signals. I'm convinced the Scott Drake unit is crap and I'm not thrilled about dropping another $80 on a new one. This is the 3rd switch I've needed in the last 8 years! I see NPD has one by an unnamed vendor who is not Scott Drake. It's $30 more but if I never have to replace it again it's worth it. CJ Pony Parts also has a house brand that's a little cheaper but I suspect it's just a re-branded Scott Drake. Anybody use either of these alternates? Any other suggestions? Thanks

I checked our little informal registry here, the closest I came is by user Hux who registered a 351-4V as unit number 144XXX. As you said, the odds of a 50 year old car surviving 47 years after you sold it are slim, to put it mildly. Good luck on your search, though, you never know. Hux 144xxx 18-Dec-1969 63* 351-4V, 3.25 gears. Richmond DSO

Welcome back! I can't help with any of those parts but other than the tilt column, most should be available with a little effort and patience.