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Thanks for the introduction RPM. I live in Redding Ca. I have a 1969 mustang coupe, 351w 4v. fmx automatic with factory air, power steering, power brakes. ive had the car for about 15 years (im 30). Im looking into making it into a gt350/traditional front of a 69.

but think of the fun if you lend her a hand...as it were

For what it is worth, here is the 1" drop template I received from Global West. I wrote the measurements all over it, if you want to make your own. The instruction are simple... Bolt it thru you existing upper control arm shack tower holes and drill two 1/4" holes thru the 1/4" holes in the template below the factory holes.. Also attached below are the alignment instructions, if you are using Global West's upper and lower control arms, Strut rods and Eccentric lock-outs... 1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733 (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car. This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.) The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA. Tech Information: Caster With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation: Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster. This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned. If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need! Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment. Coil Springs are stock height #: s-27 performance street with 640 pounds per inch. Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car. This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.) The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA. Tech Information: Caster With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown. The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation: Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster. This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned. If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need! Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment. Note: When using Plus 3 arms, there is now a right and left upper control arm. The original control arms (factory or first generation Global West Negative Roll control arms) are universal. 1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-mustang-cougar-fairlane-falcon-ranchero-mustang-eccentric-loc-out-kit-instructions-loc-2.pdf

Dealt with a company that made the wedges out of Sandy Utah. Think, Pro-Motorsports. Used them with my b joints in doing a 2 inch drop.

Bigmal I don't have any pics for measurement of my 2 inch drop. I ran a two inch Shelby drop for a while, but you need an upper control arm that has the proper ball joint angle to keep the bj from binding as the oe would do. Me being a crappy driver with no feel couldn't tell the difference between the one and two inch drop. Back around Y2K when I was looking into the drop, I think the info I got was from a place called Dr Gas out of Utah that made wedges to angle the ball joint for a drop more than one inch. They said that 69s could handle up to a two inch drop, so more of anything is better, right? I think I've read somewhere that 1-3/8" is the optimal drop. I've since gone back to the popular one inch drop.

looks like a home brew version of these: https://www.npdlink.com/product/reinforcement-plates-shock-tower/199383?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshock%2Btower%2Breinforcing%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

Whoa now there Strix, not so fast. Welcome to the forum Mustang brother. Tell us a bit about yourself and your Stang. Ya know, the regular interrogation. Age, where ya live, how long you've owned your 69, what you've done to it, any future mods...Ya, pretty much everything. Oh, and pictures. We love pics.

The Borgeson has the same problem with return to center if there is not enough caster. I have that setup on my '68 Mustang, and I ran out of space in the front wheel well when I tried to dial in the required caster that Borgeson specifies. On my 1970, with the (+) 3 UCA, that is not an issue. Bigmal, to answer your question, I am not sure how much caster the 1" drop adds, or if it adds any caster at all. The Boss 302 chassis mod book I attached earlier in this thread shows a 2 degree positive caster with the Shelby drop (Stage II), as opposed to the zero degree shown in Stage I. Not sure if that is due to the drop, or a required change in the caster to accommodate the revised suspension geometry . I am sure there are some suspension experts out there that can answer this question.

As I recall, you have to put the transmission shift lever in low- at least on an automatic. Remove the radio knobs (and nuts?). Take the two screws at the top of the wood grained bezel out, center the heater sliders, grab the bottom of the wood grain bezel and pull out. It has some pins or studs that engage with spring clips to hold it in- just yank on the bottom and watch for clearance to the knobs on the sliders.

From what i have seen there is all types of girdles ,some for women and some for men . Skimpy and full body ! The full body is nice but could be a bear to get off !