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Sorry Vic, I should be arrested for hijacking. Yes it would be easier to put in SFCs but I've seen a test that shows that they do zero for torsional twist and inner rockers are the way that Ford decided to strengthen the vert when they took the roof off, so I'll stick with that. Latoracing from your picture it looks like the rocker only extends back about 6-8" more from where you welded. I like the fillet you did and wondered why Street or Track didn't do that also. Ridge you are always a wealth of information. Do you think that could be done if the floor was left in- my floor is still in excellent condition. I plan on custom sheet metal for the inner rockers that won't require me to cut the floor from the outside rockers. I should probably start a post on this and get all of your expertise.

Went back on face book and called him out ,he didnt respond this time ,i am almost sure he is from one of the shops building the new bodies . Just imagine everyone that has had to replace frame rails or do extensive repairststructural parts of their cars , i have yet to see a car that someone has been killed in because it was welded with a mig . I have removed a lot of panels ,and structural metal from cars ,and i can tell you they come apart much easier with factory spot welds than a part that has been mig welded

You have to slice the floor 1/4 inch from the original rocker for the convertible rocker to pass through ,the floor will now weld to the bottom of the convert rocker same as a convert would the rear box is cut for a tight slip fit ,but you must brace the back half because it cuts the torque box loose ,the front is fairly simple ,you cut for a slip fit and knock the convert rocker in from the rear ant it will weld to the front of the torque box with plug welds or cut a slot and fill weld . The floor remains in the car . Adding the convert seat box will also stiffen the structure ,especially since you still have a roof unlike a convert

Cutting them through is a pain in the but but it ties them all the way from front to back , notching the front through is a bit of a trick also because it doesnt go through the front of the box

I did not use the original bracket. There is an inner DIN 1 shell that mounts in the stock location. The new head unit inserts into that. Then just support it from the back and you are ready to rock.

I installed them to the rear torque box, much like everyone else, but I did a fillet weld instead of tabs. I wanted a little more contact area, plus it was fun :)

Thanks JET, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I use Firefox too but I think the issue was more behind the scenes with the Forum Woohoo! Just logged in without having to reset my password!! Thanks Rich for your efforts and thanks bswor (I'm assuming you fixed mine when you fixed Rich's)!!

I've been fooling with cars for a few years now. I've come to feel I'd very much prefer modification/repair work done by someone who actually CARES about what he is doing along with having the skills. There's a pretty big difference between a workman and a craftsman and their end products. The reason factories do spot welding is that's it cheap and fast. Basically the minimum necessary to produce parts quickly. People that work in such situations tend to take the same mindset, don't do what's best, do what keeps the production numbers up and keeps the bosses happy with the least effort on their part. Due to my unscientific and anecdotal observations of what happens in crashes and from taking stuff apart, I'm not personally terribly impressed by "factory spot welds".