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Continued mocking up my brake tubes with the steel brake lines. Got them bent and installed the master cylinder. I used the Ford Ranger master cylinder body, and the Mustang reservoir with my Master Power Brakes proportioning valve mounted underneath. I am also going to use an in-line, pressure actuated brake light switch, so I routed those lines from the front brake line outlet. Looks like that arrangement will work nicely. I will now re bend all of these lines in their final configuration, making sure they are not over bent, scratched, dented, etc, and mount my brass tee and brake light switch securely. Then bench bleed the master cylinder, and call that part done. I also need to hook up my rear brake line, but that is the easy one. Took a brake (no pun intended.....) from the tube bending to assemble my adjustable motor mounts and take some measurements. I have both the stock height and 1/2" drop, and after several iterations of measuring, decided I had at least an inch clearance from my big oil pan to the center link. So, I am going with the 1/2" drop, as that will help me with my high rise intake/shaker hood fit up. The picture of the engine bay shows the adjustable motor mount plates attached to the front crossmember support. You can see the slotted hole that runs horizontally, that allows for the side to side adjustment of the engine. The picture of the other mounting plates show the front to back slot and that adjustment. What is missing in the pictures is the rear leaf spring poly bushings that go into the engine side assembly. Those are on the way..... This should also allow me to steer the engine clear of the Borgeson box, my big-ass C-6 transmission, and the shorty headers that want to hit everything... Should be fun...

I got an aluminum driveshaft for the Coupe from a JY out of a 2000 Explorer 2WD 4 door 4.0 V-6. It is the same length as the stock driveshaft. Now I just need the replace the u joints & install the T-5 yoke.

I plan on finding something to replace the existing O.E. "black paint over rust" swap meet jack that I currently have with something new that meets current scissor jack specs. Many modern / generic scissor jacks that I have looked at are too big to store under the spare ... and to me that is a requirement. In the 37 years I've owned this car, I've never had to change a flat but just want to have all the equipment there. A scissor jack works fine, but you must: Use only on a hard level surface Put Parking Brake On & chock at least one other wheel if flat is on back Break all the lug nuts loose to snug-tight BEFORE jacking the car up Jack up just high enough to swap the tire Snug-Tight Lug Nuts only before lowering down, then torque tight once back on the ground If you can't do it on a hard level surface, call for a flat bed Most recent flat I changed was on my 1998 Mustang (about 18 years ago) using the O.E. Scissor Jack and Temp Spare ... had zero problems nor any safety concern as I did it per above. Doug

I'd look at Accel points. Summit racing carries them. Back in the 1980's Standard Motor Products had an ignition line of parts called "Blue Streak" that was very good. I use to run Blue Streak points, condenser, and ignition coil. I had good luck with them. If you want to go to a parts store I would choose NAPA before any others. To get any stock type parts from a local parts store I always go to my local NAPA store. Aside from that. To switch to electronic ignition, I think the least expensive and very reliable solution would be Duraspark. NPD sells a wiring harness for that conversion and the ignition module and ignition coil. Or you can get the ignition module and coil from a parts store. You can get a rebuilt Duraspark distributor from a parts store or Summit Racing. I'm sure there are members here that can tell you what year Duraspark distributor to get.

a 16 oz spray bottle with a little liquid dish washing soap mixed in works fine. that gel can sometimes be difficult to work with. many of the pros install them dry.

Going off the MM article is was pretty easy. Measure between the top and bottom door crease lines. Half that and thats the top of the stripe between the tires. Then place the rear one so its centred around the marker light and we ran a line from the top of the rear stripe to the top of the stripe on the front quarter. The stripes are tapered from front to back so they can only go on one way. The sides went on easy . The back stripes are tricky though.