Autolite battery issues...

[Guillaume69 150]

I went for a 50 miles ride today. Beautiful weather, nice pics, perfect life.

 

Until I parked in the driveway, where I picked up a very unpleasant acrid smell... What the heck?! Went and quickly popped the hood up to find this brand new battery hissing, fuming, bubbling (it is supposed to be dry)... I am not very impressed at all. It might have led to a potentially dangerous situation, and might have splashed acid in my brand new engine bay. Thank God I got home as it started. Ok, I confess, I fell for the look. Those are pretty pricey as well! My electrical set up is very conservative: 60 Amp new Powermaster 3 wire alternator, external voltage regulator, and stock pulleys. No electrical adds-on, car is stock-like. Measured 12.4 engine stopped and 13.5 with engine running, if I remember well.

 

What the heck happened here? The battery casing is not cracked, swollen or anything. The caps are were it was leaking. Are these batteries of poor quality? Should I look for another brand/type?

 

Thanks for your help with this.

 

G

 

 

 

 

[det0326 179]

I had this happen to me a couple of times in my life and both times it was indeed the battery. That said however it is possible that a mechanical regulator to hang/stick and cause an overcharge problem. The voltages that you posted when you checked it prior to this event seems about right.

Dave

[magician 13]

Boiling batteries can mean overcharging..check for proper voltage from vr.

[det0326 179]

If it were mine I would replace battery and voltage regulator before it harms that beautiful engine bay.

 

Dave

[Guillaume69 150]

Well, as surprising as it might be, it seems that the voltage regulator is at fault here. After my first post, I mesured 17v with engine running!! I understand faulty parts out of the box, but this regulator, brand new repo, worked fine for 2000 miles and then decided to quit today... The battery has suffered in the process (got it tested at Advanced: 13,5V and 445 CCA).

 

So what does "stuck mechanical regulator means"? Are there other options (with 3 wires alternator)?

[det0326 179]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/electronic-voltage-regulator-1964-1973/p/VR8/

 

Not as pretty as yours and may need some sort of plug adapter but it says will fit 64- 73. I believe I would call them or email and make sure it is plug and play.

Dave

[SA69mach 39]

I had exactly the same thing happen to me these last two weeks. Autolite battery and voltage regulator, all new and reproductions, same as yours.

 

Two weeks back it failed to start after 60 minute drive. Dry battery cells. Topped up and recharged, all good. Voltage at idle 14.4. 12.6 engine off. Seems all good, right?

 

Run about 100 miles on it last weekend, no problems.

 

Yesterday I checked the battery cells. A few dry and the rest were low. Just by luck I started the car and running at fast idle it showed 16.8 volts !!!

After the choke opened, at normal idle it showed 14.4 volts.

 

I changed out the VR to a aftermarket transistorized (electronic, solid state, cheap parts store brand) Voltage regulator. Charge to the battery is steady at 14.6 volts at any revs.

 

Its the voltage regulator. Exact same symptoms. The high voltage whilst driving boils the battery.

 

I opened up my Autolite repo VR and it has all the expected mechanical contraptions. I have adjusted the part that is supposed to limit the voltage output, as per the Ford manual, by bending the arm holding the spring, so as to reduce spring pressure and hopefully keep the voltage in the correct range.

Seems kind of innacurate to me. I will be keeping the solid state VR installed for now, until I can test fit the adjusted VR and check it's output.

 

This is a common issue with the aftermarket VR's. They look nice, but are not adjusted properly during the quality control in production.

 

Now have to remove battery and clean up the bay, the tray and the hood.

 

Always check voltage at higher revs than just idle. Lesson learned for me.

[barnett468 418]

buy a good electronic regulater and switch the tops . . it will look the same.

 

see if your red battery caps UNSCREW . . IF THEY DO, LOOK INSIDE . . IF YOU SEE WATER OR PLATES IT IS NOT A DRY CELL.

.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

buy a good electronic regulater and switch the tops . . it will look the same.

 

see if your red battery caps UNSCREW . . IF THEY DO, LOOK INSIDE . . IF YOU SEE WATER OR PLATES IT IS NOT A DRY CELL.

.

 

+1 :rockon:

[Guillaume69 150]

Agreed, solid state is the way to go. And I definitely like the idea of swapping the covers to keep that blue/yellow original look. I just can't believe those mechanical repos are so poorly calibrated... Before restoring the car last year, the original mechanical VR was on. I've been driving this car for 20 years and never had a single issue.

 

As far as the Autolite battery goes, there was liquid bubbling out of the red caps, through very tiny holes probably designed for this type of situation. So much for the dry cells. That's weird as the instructions for this battery were saying to never mess with the red caps to add any liquid, etc. I'll talk to the guys at NPD, where I bought it.

 

I cleaned the battery tray, fender apron and hood with water immediately after removing the boiling battery. There was not any liquid spill (yet!) but definitely some acid vapors. Engine bay still looking good.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience on this, and Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

 

G

Edited November 27, 2014 by Guillaume69

[Rsanter 152]

I can't believe they don't just use the electronics innards in the repo VR and then install the correct cover

 

Bob

[1969_Mach1 333]

I agree that those mechanical regulators were never very good, are slow to respond to changing electrical loads, and stick. I would replace (upgrade) it simply because they do not work very well. I have had batteries do what yours is doing on many cars or trucks. On mine, it was always a bad battery and never a voltage regulator/charging issue. Load testing the battery would indicate a bad or shorted cell. Three times specifically the batteries have been fairly new, one was an Interstate, another from Sears, and the third from Napa and on different vehicles. The other times the batteries have been 4+ years old.

Edited November 27, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[Guillaume69 150]

Yep, I am gonna try my luck with NPD, and see if they will accept to swap it. You never know!

[barnett468 418]

the mechanical regulators are all made in china now many 50 year old originals still work.

 

maybe they tell you not to mess with the caps because they don't want you to know that its really not a dry cell.

.

[Flanders 46]

Do the caps easily swap out with the electronic regulators? I have no idea if mine is original or not, but now I'm paranoid!

 

(ie. http://www.cjponyparts.com/electronic-voltage-regulator-1964-1973/p/VR8/ )

[1969_Mach1 333]

Well, as surprising as it might be, it seems that the voltage regulator is at fault here. After my first post, I mesured 17v with engine running!! I understand faulty parts out of the box, but this regulator, brand new repo, worked fine for 2000 miles and then decided to quit today... The battery has suffered in the process (got it tested at Advanced: 13,5V and 445 CCA).

 

So what does "stuck mechanical regulator means"? Are there other options (with 3 wires alternator)?

 

Myself and many others have replaced the original style alternator and external regulator with a newer Ford 3G (small case model) alternator with internal regulator. I bought mine through Ford Racing years ago and it came with the electrical connectors and instructions. It's discontinued. I think it fits a 1994 or 1995 Mustang GT with a 5.0 motor. You would also have to get the wiring connectors. Most parts stores also sell the connectors these days. The alt. pulley (not the alt. fan) off the original 1969 alternator will fit the 3G alternator. The 3G has two internal cooling fans. Since the belt is more prone to slip with that small diameter pulley on the 3G alt., a larger diameter aftermarket or I think Boss 302 alt. pulley is needed. The larger pulley enables more belt contact surface which stops the slipping. Since it is a higher amperage alt., it still operates fine with a larger pulley, even at idle.

 

The end result doesn't look original like yours, but certainly operates much better.

 

It would be nice if they made an AGM battery that looked original.

Edited November 27, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I used to hunt the wrecking yards for the old regulators ,the ones with screws that held the cover in place .They were adjustable with a screw to set the proper voltage . They would outlast any new regulator .Glass bead the top ,repaint ,and put the sticker on top and they looked great .

I went through 2 of those Autolite batteries and finally went a Duralast Gold ,they do not look anywhere correct but will last forever .

[stangs-R-me 120]

I've been stealthfully using Motorcraft Electronic Regulators with repainted old covers & repro stickers since the 80's.

 

When I replaced my front & alternator wiring harnesses in 2011, I had my alternator overhauled and bought another new Motorcraft electronic regulator and repro AMK cover kit with the correct rivets from NPD.

 

This is the only way to go if you want a reliable driver and especially if you have one of those expensive repro Autolite batteries !!

 

Back in 2008 I got a new "Autolite" branded modern battery from Checker Auto Parts. It is obviously NOT correct, but hey it says Autolite on it and was only $64 !! 6 years old / connected to a Battery Tender when parked and not dead yet.

 

Doug

[Guillaume69 150]

Electronic VR is on the way from NPD. I have already removed the cap from mechanical VR, and we are ready for the swap. NPD has also agreed to swap the "Autolite " battery, as it should never have spilled acid as advertised on their website.

 

Absolutely amazing customer service from NPD all along!

 

 

 

Edited November 30, 2014 by Guillaume69

[Guillaume69 150]

When I replaced my front & alternator wiring harnesses in 2011, I had my alternator overhauled and bought another new Motorcraft electronic regulator and repro AMK cover kit with the correct rivets from NPD.

 

I can't seem to find rivets that would do the trick anywhere. Could someone may be point me in the right direction? Thanks.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Glad NPD is replacing the battery for you. I don't quite understand why NPD would claim it cannot leak. I like the looks of the original style battery but am afraid of possible acid leaks. I've had good customer service with NPD, although slow shipping in my opinion.

Edited December 8, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I can't seem to find rivets that would do the trick anywhere. Could someone may be point me in the right direction? Thanks.

 

I reused the rivets by using panel bond adhesive to hold the cover onto the solid state regulator base along with holding the rivets in place.

[stangs-R-me 120]

I can't seem to find rivets that would do the trick anywhere. Could someone may be point me in the right direction? Thanks.

 

The rivets came with the AMK Cover Kit I got from NPD. I think you can buy just the rivets direct from AMK too.

 

Doug

[Guillaume69 150]

Thanks guys. As I did not care to save the repo rivets, I'll try my luck with AMK. I have their phone book style catalog. Pretty amazing what these guys sell...

[SA69mach 39]

I put the old mechanical VR back on the car last weekend and started adjusting it, as per the old Ford workshop manual.

It was surprisingly easy, and only needed two tweeks with a set of needle nose pliers.

I had my dad in the car altering the idle/throttle, and turning on the headlights, heater fan, Ac brake lights etc, to alter the load.

 

The voltage output took about one or two seconds to change with various loads, but the good news for me is that it never exceeded the 14.6 volts at any revs with any load.

So, they can be adjusted. I guess time will tell how stable the settings are. I decided to just screw the cover back in place, and I left the mechanical VR in place - I always carry the solid state VR as a back up now.

 

I tested my dads 70 coupe, and his mechanical VR was pushing 15.2 volts at 3000 revs. He opted to put a transistorized VR in immediately, even after I adjusted his and got it dead on at 14.4 volts. Maybe that was the better call, don't know yet....

 

So, I would say that the quality control at whatever factory is making the repo mechanical VR's, well,.....suck.

AND - they still adjust as per the Ford factory designed them, so, you have some choices and options.

 

I urge you owners to make sure you inspect, identify and check your VR's. Today.