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takoarm

Dynamat or Lizardskin

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When I was restoring my car the previous owner placed dynamat in the doors. When i removed the mat, it trapped moisture which caused the doors to rust inside out...... Had to reskin the doors....

 

I do use dynamat on the 65 vette but I'm not worried about rust with that car

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I've read a lot of bad things about Dynamat on this and the Torino forum. Ultimately what I was able to deduce was that Dynamat is good for sound deadening but terrible for heat resistance. The Lizard Skin I think is best suited to address both. Personally I went for the more cost effective route and bought 3 rolls of Frost King adhesive backed duct insulation and foil duct tape for the seams from my local Home Depot. Cost me about $60 and did the entire floor. I also applied POR15 to the floor prior to putting down the insulation. I opted to pay extra for the upgraded MassBack from ACC when I ordered my carpet as well.

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I personally used Dynamat for the sound deadening only, with partial coverage (roof, floors, quarter panels). If you use Dynamat, you have to seal the sides of all the material with some aluminum tape. It will prevent it from oozing all over the place. It's a little time consuming, but the result is really clean and tight.

 

 

Without the tape:

image_zps7508fc90.jpg

 

Nice and sealed:

image_zpsb43f087a.jpg

 

Hope this helps!

 

G

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I went totally cheap and did the Frost King thing myself, but also used an elastomeric paint from Kool Seal that has micro-spheres added to it. It acts as a great thermal barrier and also helps with sound deadening. The two together have made a significant difference in temperature and sound deadening in my car.

 

 

Frost King foam (closed-cel) duct insulation (<$20 for a 12â€x20’ roll) is much cheaper than dynamat (~$400 just for floor) and Kool Seal w/microspheres (~$80 for 5 gal bucket) is less than half the cost of lizardskin (~ $170 for 2 gal bucket). I painted everything on the inside and still had paint left over and used around 7 to 8 rolls of the insulation to cover from firewall to trunk (including doors).

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i went with a "trifecta" lizard skin both the sound control and heat control products.. i also purchased eastwood brand product similar to dynomat and applied it on the firewall, trans tunnel, and rear seat area...

 

the lizard skin made a tremendous difference by itself applied to the doors, roof and floor... with no glass installed in the car and no headliner, carpet, door panels etc.. you could close a door and hear only a resounding thud.. no resonance.... im very pleased with it

 

i also went with the molded Shelby carpet with black inserts

Edited by stangme428

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You may not have missed my first post on this thread. I installed the ACC carpet with Mass Back in my Torino. The Mass Back material is approximately an 1/8" rubber that is very stiff to hold the shape of the molded carpet. It will for sure help with sound deadening, and they claim it will work as a heat barrier. I'm not sure how well everything works as I have not yet had my car out on the road since I installed it a month ago. But in my opinion the Mass Back was work the extra money.

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No, I saw that in your post but did not think it was the "Essex" which has carpet that is supposedly 3/8" thick.

 

I have ordered (and received) the "Essex" which is yet to be installed and I was wondering if I needed to do anything "additional." It will probably be a couple of months before I install the interior.

 

I am curious as to whether you (or anyone else) have the "Essex" and your experience ...I will probably start another thread later.

 

Thanks!

 

 

BT

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No, I saw that in your post but did not think it was the "Essex" which has carpet that is supposedly 3/8" thick.

 

I have ordered (and received) the "Essex" which is yet to be installed and I was wondering if I needed to do anything "additional." It will probably be a couple of months before I install the interior.

 

I am curious as to whether you (or anyone else) have the "Essex" and your experience ...I will probably start another thread later.

 

Thanks!

 

BT

 

 

Before I ordered my carpet I requested samples of the cut pile and Essex and they were identical. I opted to go with the cut pile. There's nothing extra you need to do with the Essex the extra work is due to the Mass Back. Due to the thickness and stiffness of the backing you may need to use a heat gun to make it a little more pliable to fit the contours better. I pulled mine out of the box and let it sit out in a spare room in my house for two weeks until I got around to installing it. Even then I still needed a heat gun for certain areas. Then the other challenge is making the holes for the seat belts and seats. I used an awl and an old wood burning tool I had lying around. The wood burning tool worked perfect to melt the holes but once you use it on the Mass Back it's no good for anything else. The rubber naturally melts to it. Some people heat up straight pins to melt carpet but that will not work with the Mass Back. It's just too thick.

Edited by Big Secz

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Before I ordered my carpet I requested samples of the cut pile and Essex and they were identical. I opted to go with the cut pile. There's nothing extra you need to do with the Essex the extra work is due to the Mass Back. Due to the thickness and stiffness of the backing you may need to use a heat gun to make it a little more pliable to fit the contours better. I pulled mine out of the box and let it sit out in a spare room in my house for two weeks until I got around to installing it. Even then I still needed a heat gun for certain areas. Then the other challenge is making the holes for the seat belts and seats. I used and awl and an old wood burning tool I had lying around. The wood burning tool worked perfect to melt the holes but once you use it on the Mass Back it's no good for anything else. The rubber naturally melts to it. Some people heat up straight pins to melt carpet but that will not work with the Mass Back. It's just too thick.

GREAT input!

 

Thanks.

 

BT

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i went with a "trifecta" lizard skin both the sound control and heat control products.. i also purchased eastwood brand product similar to dynomat and applied it on the firewall, trans tunnel, and rear seat area...

 

the lizard skin made a tremendous difference by itself applied to the doors, roof and floor... with no glass installed in the car and no headliner, carpet, door panels etc.. you could close a door and hear only a resounding thud.. no resonance.... im very pleased with it

 

 

I'll second that

Lizard skin made a unbelivable differance in my car for sound control100_0879_zpsd349370d.jpg

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Is there originally somekind of deadening material inside b-pillar?

If not what would you recommend to use there?

I am replacing headliner so it´s good time to put some deadening material into roof at the same time...

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Yes there is. You can buy the sail panel insulation but it is not the correct shape. It would suffice if you were not worried about originality. The insulation is essentially felt juke carpet padding.

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My body guy just did my '69 with Dynamat. My first exposure to it and the car isn't finished yet. That is primarily a sound deadener. Their heat control product is Dynaliner. It comes in several thicknesses. I have the Dynaliner over the Dynamat on the firewall as my car is a non-air 428.

About the Dynamat trapping moisture when placed inside the door. I believe the instructions call for it to be placed on the door underneath the door panel and not on the door skin. Dave.

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Not that carpet exactly but have used others made by ACC. Top quality stuff and made in Alabama!

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