-mikko-

I am currently replacing battery side inner fender => replacement panel seems to sit too low with my new radiator support :ohmy: It seems that when you look at it from front to back shock tower is higher, it makes some sort of curve (hope you understand what I mean...). Is that top line of inner fender supposed to be straight line? If I put it straight there is cap between frame and bottom of this panel => it seems to be too short :thumbdown: Can someone measure distance between frame rail (top) and radiator support at highest point where that inner fender is welded? Thanks allready:yes:

Started to fabricate strut rods...

Is there originally somekind of deadening material inside b-pillar? If not what would you recommend to use there? I am replacing headliner so it´s good time to put some deadening material into roof at the same time...

I have stock disc brakes in my ar but they are that 1-piston model, is there any options just upgrade brake calipers but stay with stock disc? Cobra calipers and suitable brackets maybe? I have two set of wheels which I am using (15" and 17") so brakes can not be too big :001_huh:

That upper part of steering shaft moves up if I pull, snap rings are in place => it actually pulls that bearing out of it´s location, because it is not that tight (there is rubber around it)! I believe that I indeed must take that column out... Trickiest part of removing that column is ragjoint bolts, because my car is with manual transmission and clutch linkage is in the way along with disc brake master cylinder... Good thing is that I´ll be able paint the column at the same time :thumbup1:

It seems that those plastic pieces were so brittle that it gave up! Rag joint is ok, but I can pull steering shaft easily out or press in :helpsmilie: Is there any fix ideas or is this time to buy Flaming river, ididit or CPP tilt column :huh:

Got new tires and rims home :clap: 215/50-17 on 7" wide in front and 255/45-17 on 8" wide in rear

Endeavour32 can you post picture of your car? I have same springs (waiting installation), shelby drop and roller perches and 17" wheels but it is with 302 => I am afraid that front will be too high...

I´ll check that rag joint first, I have non tilt column in my car.. Thanks!!!

...today I was going to remove that old cracked grant rubber steering wheel and install Nardi wooden steering wheel. As you might know, hub was tight, I mean really tight!!! Before using any puller tools I deciden that I just grab that wheel and pull hard and so I did => result was that hub stayed in place and whole steering axle inside column moved inch out!:scared: Will I broke anything if I just push it back in? It seems that it is not going straight back into its original location. Should I take whole steering column away from car or how should I proceed? Thanks allready:blush:

is it originally just round hole or is its " as big as possible" to cut ? Picture would be nice...

Thanks for information, I find those bolts (square nuts), but not that bracket (Mustangsunlimited) => do you have part number?

Hello! My car is missing those metal pieces where front fender is bolted (body near rocker panel) I mean those lower two bolts which are located in fenders... => hope you understand what I mean :huh: Is there any repair parts for these available? If not could someone help me and measure how long are these (from body) and measure points where I should weld these also... Thank you allready!!!:blush:

Some previous owner has disconnected clock wire and when it is connected clock is moving high speed!!! Behind clock reads 12 volts => can you help me what is the issue with this clock! Clock is C9ZF-15000 if this helps

Wheel vintiques Series 62 is very close to original. I have 15 x 7 in Front and inch wider in rear => looks very nice :001_tongue: I have FoMoCo original hub caps and they are stainless steel! I believe that there is no repro of these hub caps...