panteramatt 1 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 Maybe I was expecting too much but I expected this thing to handle like it was on rails. I put edelbrock ias shocks all around, 1" lowering springs (which didnt lower the car), shelby drop, and roller perches and the front still bounces a little and while it does handle better, not what I expected. Should I replace all the swaybar bushings? I havent had the alignment done, but I adjusted the toe 1/4" in and it steers straight. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1BAD351 21 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 I'm redoing mine soon, and I'm doing everything. If you want the car to handle well, replace everything. I would do all the bushings and leave nothing original, that will tighten it up I'm sure. Also do Poly, not factory rubber, but don't do any crazy stuff like TPR. I did that once and the crap wears out so fast it's stupid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 are the shocks adjustable? what spring rate did you have before? what is the rate of the new springs? what size sway bar do you currently have? everyone seems to swear by the roller perches. personally i don't understand how they can possibly make that much of a difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Unfortunately I am nowhere near ready to be thinking about the suspension, as I am still replacing rotted sheet metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Stock sway bars. Do thicker swaybars really make that much of a difference? I was told that teh stock swaybar would be better for drag racing. I think the springs were like 520#? The shocks are not adjustable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 no sway bar is the best sway bar for drag racing since it adds weight. whoever told you the stock sway bar was better for drag racing was probably joking given that it's on the small side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 I was told a stock swaybar was better than the bigger ones thats all. Didnt think it had to do with weight but for weight transfer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Replace the bar bushings and endlink rubbers for better control of front body roll. The roller perches DO make the ride better and allow and increase to handling also releaving the bind in the up and down motion. If you have a fastback adding a rear sway bar helps keeping the rear body roll to a min when cornering. For serious drag racing the sway bars should be disconnected at the end links to help in weight transfer to the rear wheels. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 The ride is better just not what it should be. The front still seems to float a little like the rebound needs adjusting but theres no way to do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969 Mach1 14 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 What engine is in this 1969 Mustang? Are the front springs rated at 520 lb./inch or are they called 520's which in that case refers to the wire diameter of the spring? In either case, if your engine is anything more than a 302 the front springs seem a little too soft. Also, the OEM sway bars on these Mustangs are always too small for any type of performance use. Adding a rear sway bar also helps these Mustangs. Just stay away from the cheap rear sway bars. The way some mount to the chassis tend to tear it open like a can opener. Maier racing is a good place for performance suspension pieces and advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cornerstone 15 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Well I'm hoping the roller perches help some, it sure seems like a good thing to have zero binding. I just finished building my set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69shelbycoupe 11 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 I was told a stock swaybar was better than the bigger ones thats all. Didnt think it had to do with weight but for weight transfer? That is true. The best is to remove it all together not for weight but for lift in the front to get weight transfer. It will not handle well on the street though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 520s do seem a little soft to me. Mine has 620s with GW suspension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Well I'm hoping the roller perches help some, it sure seems like a good thing to have zero binding. I just finished building my set. when i installed the roller perches (built my own) there was still some binding because the strength of the coil spring wanted to tilt the perch at a slight angle. maybe some are removing this binding by shimming one of the shock mounts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 What does good handling have to do with drag racing? I'm not sure what your trying to accomplish here.:confused1: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Yes they are 520s and I have a 351w. Thats what opentracker recomended to me. Would cutting them down a little help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 What does good handling have to do with drag racing? I'm not sure what your trying to accomplish here.:confused1: Nothing! I want the best of both worlds. Im just stating here that with the parts I threw at it, it should be better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Front end alignment specs? http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaleRider 12 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) 520 seem light also. When I got recommendations from open tracker he said 620s. Based on his recommnedations and others below is what I did. 1. 620s - I cut a qtr ring for stance 2. 1 1/8" Sway Bar 3. Kyb Gas Adjusts in Front 4. Gr2s in back (could be other way around Gas adjust in back gr2 in front) 5. New idlerarm, tie rods, upper and lower control arms 6. New poly struts bushings 7. 4 1/2 standard eye leafs 8. Roller spring perches 9. Rear Sway bar 10. Export braces 11. Monte carlo bar Very happy with the ride - pretty close to new car feel. Will probably swap to borgeson set up in future. Edited October 1, 2011 by PaleRider Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Nothing! I want the best of both worlds. Im just stating here that with the parts I threw at it, it should be better. What condition are the rest of the suspension parts in? upper and lower arms, steering parts? Get it adjusted to spec's Grabber shows and test. A 1 1/8 front bar will help and a 7/8 rear bar will make it drive like a go kart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJ_Bob 10 Report post Posted October 1, 2011 Nothing! I want the best of both worlds. Im just stating here that with the parts I threw at it, it should be better. I have a super front heavy car but good shocks and especially tires make all the difference in the world. I actually have impressive handling with KYBs and Goodridge T/As. What tires do you have? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 The biggest difference on my car was the sway bars hands down. Just installing a bigger front one is a huge difference. I dont have sfc, so I would feel the rear of the car still wanting to sway while the front stayed flat. So I added a 7/8" bar in the back. Car is suprisingly flat now even without sfc. Roller purches made a noticeable difference on the ride quality. Not much in handling I think. I have the 620s. I cut about 1 maybe 1.5 coils off to lower the car. I can remove and install them without a compressor. Last time I did it without even removing the wheel! 4.5 mid eye grab a track leafs. And cheap Autozone shocks all around. If you want it to handle well, you NEED larger sway bars. Trust me. I think you'll prefer having a better handling car, than shaving off half a tenth on your et. Plus you can enjoy better handling EVERY time you drive your car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klevor 10 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 Monte carlo bar seemed to help mine handle alot better with all new bushings installed with factoory shocks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 Ok, so Im going to get a swaybar and montecarlo bar and see if I can return the springs for 620's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
panteramatt 1 Report post Posted October 2, 2011 I guess the springs are 560 lbs. The other set is 750 lbs. Just wondering if it is my springs cause I cant see them giving me bad advice after I gave him my specs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites