69 mach 408w build

[LindenBruce 27]

Cool. I have never used a tig, but the concept seems to be similar to oxy-acetylene welding where you are fusing more of the existing metals and adding metal in much smaller amounts as needed where as mig is a constant supply of metal. I always loved oxy-acetylene in school so maybe I will love tig to if I can ever afford a machine.

 

So what are you working on with the tig? B

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Cool. I have never used a tig, but the concept seems to be similar to oxy-acetylene welding where you are fusing more of the existing metals and adding metal in much smaller amounts as needed where as mig is a constant supply of metal. I always loved oxy-acetylene in school so maybe I will love tig to if I can ever afford a machine.

 

So what are you working on with the tig? B

 

i would speculate some of the coordination involved with oxy-acet setup would carry over to tig.

 

i wanted to get the major part of the learning curve out of the way before starting on my next real project (don't plan on anything new for a year or two at least). that way i don't screw it up. i learned to mig while doing a car and i ended up redoing everything...

 

i'm simply making a metal workshop table out of the scrap metal i have laying around (mainly the box tube i had used for the car dolly). i've hated the wooden table i threw together a few years ago, just never had the time to get something better.

[Klutch 17]

Can you describe your welding technique? Do you move the rod up and down, or do you make little "C" shapes? People have told me they do both, but I can't seem to get that "stack of coins" look with my welds.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i've been trying a lot of different techniques. seems to depend on the situation.

 

i can get something that almost looks like a stack of dimes without any filler material.

 

i've found myself letting off the peddle a bit between puddles.

 

the large nut and heavy bracket were welded using continuous circles and moving at a steady rate. the fillet in the box tubes in the last pics were by pausing/add throttle/filler, move/off the throttle, pause/add throttle/filler, move...

 

your best bet is to probably get tig advice from a veteran though... :)

[TF69 14]

The best tip I would give anybody starting to tig is hold off on using any filler material until you get your tig gun hand moving correctly. Bringing both hands in right off the start will lead to frustrations. Welding tips/tricks guy is pretty helpful for beginners.

[Klutch 17]

i've been trying a lot of different techniques. seems to depend on the situation.

 

i can get something that almost looks like a stack of dimes without any filler material.

 

i've found myself letting off the peddle a bit between puddles.

 

the large nut and heavy bracket were welded using continuous circles and moving at a steady rate. the fillet in the box tubes in the last pics were by pausing/add throttle/filler, move/off the throttle, pause/add throttle/filler, move...

 

your best bet is to probably get tig advice from a veteran though... :)

 

Thanks, Buckeye. Are your techniques similar for MIG?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

mig is a different animal.

 

you can kind of make a similar effect with a mig, you basically just have to weld, stop and move, weld, stop and move...quickly.

 

 

[Klutch 17]

mig is a different animal.

 

you can kind of make a similar effect with a mig, you basically just have to weld, stop and move, weld, stop and move...quickly.

 

OK. Thanks.

[buening 63]

With mig try using cursive "e" continuously for the stacked dimes. Be careful with the start-stop-start-stop method, as it will typically produce a poorly penetrated weld. A stack of dimes does nothing if you don't get good penetration ;)

[Klutch 17]

With mig try using cursive "e" continuously for the stacked dimes. Be careful with the start-stop-start-stop method, as it will typically produce a poorly penetrated weld. A stack of dimes does nothing if you don't get good penetration ;)

 

I will give that a try. Thanks.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

yes, if you are going to start and stop with a mig, you have to turn up the heat (i.e. voltage). it should be easy to tell if your welds are cold as they won't flow out.

 

a pulser on a tig does the same thing (the background amps doesn't go all the way to zero though...)

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

almost finished. need to get the plate for the top. i want 1/2" and it will overhang all sides by 4".

 

it will hold the body hammers/spoons, dollies, aviation snips, c-clamps, vise-grips, transfer punches, torch, etc.

 

good experience welding at different angles, at less than optimal positions, etc.

 

 

i don't have the smallest torch, but i was able to get a small bead in this tight area. my mig gun isn't the smallest and i'm sure i would have struggled to get anything in this gap.

 

 

 

 

i just thinned some rustoleum and sprayed it on using my primer gun after cleaning.

 

 

 

[buening 63]

I bet that matches the blue on your Tig too :) Nice looking Wilton.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i've seen the topic on sheetmetal thickness come up a handful of times on various forums over the last couple of years. while i was cleaning out the attic tonight i found the remaining door skin and quarter panel.

 

so i thought i would snap some pics for future reference. this of course is just one sample, so if you are repairing metal, measure your own (in an area that isn't thinned from rust, grinding or an edge that may be thinner due to stretching. items like frame rails and shock towers are quite a bit thicker.

 

this is the top side of an original fastback quarter panel probably an inch from where the quarter extension would mount. it measures around .032" and has two reduced coats of epoxy on one side only (probably only adds about 1 mil). The underside was the factory, slightly surface rusted factory primer overspray.

 

 

 

this is an original door skin, measured on the order of 0.5" in from an edge. it's measuring around .035". no paint.

 

 

 

the was an aftermarket quarter skin (installed back in 94). measured about half way down from the body line just in front of the quarter extension. it's a little thicker, around .041".

 

 

based on this chart, i would consider the original metal to be on the order of 19-20 gauge.

 

Metal Gauge

[Klutch 17]

Hiya, Buckeye. Hope you are hanging tough through the Ohio winter.

 

I wanted to ask you some questions about your painting process. After talking to lots of people about getting my car painted, I'm considering doing it myself. I've just seen way too many "professional" paint jobs that were lackluster or downright lousy.

 

- Did you use a book are some other reference for setting up your home spray booth? I was very impressed with you how you did it and thought I could find some details in a book, or something.

 

- Did you do any color sanding or buffing? Based on the oustanding finish you achieved, I assumed you sanded and buffed. But I don't recall seeing any mention of this.

 

- How large is your compressor? Also, do you think it's necessary to have a very large compressor to paint a car? My compressor is a two-stage, but the tank is only a 32 gallon.

 

- Did you use the same gun to shoot the base and the clear? What gun do you use?

 

I plan to do lots of research. But I would greatly appreciate anything you can share about painting.

 

Thanks.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

- Did you use a book are some other reference for setting up your home spray booth? I was very impressed with you how you did it and thought I could find some details in a book, or something.

 

No book. Just some experimentation. Better to push filtered air in to a homemade booth than suck air in. If you suck air in, it can pull unfiltered air through cracks, sucking in dirt.

 

- Did you do any color sanding or buffing? Based on the oustanding finish you achieved, I assumed you sanded and buffed. But I don't recall seeing any mention of this.

 

Absolutely have to sand/buff a garage paint job. Too much dirt. Plus i can't handle any sort of peel. I'm in process now. Car is half sanded. Some parts have been buffed.

 

- How large is your compressor? Also, do you think it's necessary to have a very large compressor to paint a car? My compressor is a two-stage, but the tank is only a 32 gallon.

 

A larger compressor is nice as it doesn't build as much heat since it doesn't have to run as much. A large reserve tank in my mind allows the air additional time to cool before hitting the pipes. An overworked compressor can produce a lot of water. Long pipe runs and filter should help.

 

- Did you use the same gun to shoot the base and the clear? What gun do you use?

 

 

i use the same gun to spray reduced epoxy, single stage urethanes, base and urethane clears. it has a 1.4 tip. high build sprays out of another gun with a 1.8 tip.

 

just sprayed my friends trunk lid (bottom side) last weekend.

 

 

[Klutch 17]

^^ Wow, that deck lid looks fabulous.

 

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions. I sincerely appreciate this and all that you've shared with your build thread.

 

Can you reveal the brand of your paint guns? My brother was a body man many years ago and he used a DeVilbiss gun. (He lives in another state. Maybe I'll fly him in to paint my car.) I don't mind spending big on a nice paint gun if it will make the spraying easier and better. I'd even spring for a Tekna Copper. But I wouldn't want to spend big on a gun that was just name brand hype.

 

And if you can post up some pics of your sanding/buffing process, that would be great. I'm sure I'm not the only one champing at the bit for more Buckeye build pics.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

my main gun is an Iwata LPH400 w/1.4 tip. My other gun is an Astro (not sure of model), but it has a 1.8 tip.

 

i think more important is getting a gun (tip size is important though) that you get some practice with and used to.

 

technique is the bigger factor in my opinion.

 

not sure what to post on the sanding/buffing process. 2000 grit will quickly take out the rough orange peel.

 

i use a variable speed rotary and also a small 3". The small one is really nice for small areas. i have a combination of wool pads for each where i rough it in with compound. i have various foam pads (some waffle) for polishing.

 

in particular i've been using 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound (06085), Machine Polish (06064)and Ultrafine Machine Polish (06068).

 

DCU2021 after curing for several months buffs like concrete.

 

 

 

after buffing out the trunk lid.

 

looking into the trunk lid, reflecting outside to a tree about 15 feet away.

 

 

[Klutch 17]

That is extremely helpful. Thanks again, Buckeye.

 

Dude, you're like the Tom Scholz of project cars. You're both from Ohio, you're both engineers, you both do amazing things, you do them at home and you both rock!

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Scholz

[Machspeed 219]

His build and his abilities are indeed awe inspiring. I, for one, am grateful that he has posted it here, as I know it has benefited many.

[craig429 10]

His build and his abilities are indeed awe inspiring. I, for one, am grateful that he has posted it here, as I know it has benefited many.

 

 

+1. He also inspired me that I could do my project. I am learning that welding is not so bad as long as you have a good grinder :ohmy:

 

Also a good Mig machine doesn't help either. My welds with my Hobart welder are better than with an Campbell Hausfeld I used to use.

[waketek516 10]

Just read this entire thread.... this is amazing!

 

Keep up the good work!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

thanks for the comments. forums can be a great tool for capturing and documenting ideas.

[Mike65 475]

Thanks for all the pics & info Buckeyedemon, they are a GREAT help especially when I was reassembling my dash last weekend. Any time I need info about my 69 Mustang I go right to your build thread & the answer is usually there.Thanks again.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I was curious so a friend let me borrow his sound meter.

 

I just did some walk arounds of the car.

 

 

a video. i think i had the averaging was slowing the response in the video which is why i took some of the stills. I don't have the door panels, quarter windows, etc installed.

 

 

 

 

ambient noise outside

 

in front of my driver

 

side of the car (no hood installed)

 

about 5" from the pipe

 

about 8' away