six_sigma 12 Report post Posted April 28, 2012 Gotta love the ground pounding camera shake every time you rev the engine. Talk about a car you feel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted April 28, 2012 It's ALIVE!! :thumbup: Sounds great!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted April 29, 2012 my dad let me keep his video camera when he left. I had forgotten we had taken video from when we installed the engine/transmission. so if anyone is really bored, then take a look. i had to load it in two parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted April 30, 2012 AWESOME! Cool you videoed the install. I'll be removing my 351C/4 speed in the next few weeks, and installing my 408/TKO600, the same way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cobrakidz 10 Report post Posted April 30, 2012 A lot of hammering in part 2....haha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 1, 2012 A lot of hammering in part 2....haha. correct. my dad was tapping on the grade 8 fastener for the motor mount with a rubber mallet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 1, 2012 installed the blue bulb. everything is a lot darker in reality. it definately doesn't match the cluster. the repop cluster and ford tooling dash pad installed with zero problems. i thought sure i was going to have problems getting the holes to line up but they all went right in (still waiting on my original clock cluster to return from being metalized). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 1, 2012 Looking real nice. I'm sure you've posted earlier, but what are you going to do with the car? Will you race it, show it, etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 2, 2012 local shows, cruises, evening drives. i will drag race it once or twice a year. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stang1969 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2012 Wow. Great thread. I will definitely be referring back to this when I get my Mustang this summer. Your craftsmanship is amazingly detailed! Thanks for the good read. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969mustang 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Car looks and sounds awesome! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) taking it to the exhaust shop friday. it will probably be there for 1-2 weeks. trunk is pretty much done. not much left to do with the backseat area. i'll need to put the fasteners in the forward most inner quarters after the quarter windows and quarter scoops are installed. Edited May 17, 2012 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hollywoodknight69 14 Report post Posted May 5, 2012 taking it to the exhaust shop friday. it will probably be there for 1-2 weeks. trunk is pretty much done. not much left to do with the backseat area. i'll need to put the fasteners in the forward most inner quarters after the quarter windows and quarter scoops are installed. Great Job......it looks very clean! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 dropped the car off at the exhaust shop along with the requirements. after about 1.5 hours i think we were on the same page. i'm crossing my fingers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angel 24 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 Body looks straight!!! Nice job man. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 The car is looking great! My fingers are crossed your exhaust comes out as you have envisioned. I'll be dealing with the same issue soon! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 Buckeye... I tried to PM you... but your INBOX is full. I'll post the question here instead..... I saw one of your posts showing the work you had to do on your oil pan using the RM 1/2" drop mounts. I'll be installing my new 408w, and TKO-600, in a couple weeks. I'm also using a Shaker, and a Canton 7 qt pan. Did you find using the 1/2" drop mounts helped with clearance for both the trans, and the Shaker spacing? I assume that is why you opted to modify your oil pan. I have yet to order new engine mounts. Modern Driveline is machining the case of my TKO-600 for additional clearance in the trans tunnel. So.. I may not need the 1/2" mounts for trans reasons, more than I do for getting the Shaker to fit properly. Just wondering how you feel about the 1/2" drop mounts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 (edited) sorry. i forget that i have to continually delete messages in the mailbox... the shaker was the primary reason for using the drop mounts. i really had no choice. i will say with the mounts, the engine won't be going anywhere. they really limit engine movement it's hard to say whether or not they increased vibration in the car or not (since i don't have a before/after feeling), but with the thickness of the isolator and it's stiffness, it's hard for me to believe it wouldn't dramatically increase the vibration levels. dropping the engine can also cause problems with a z-bar, mechanical fan, steering, crossmember if you go that route. i've only read of one other person to have potential steering linkage issues with the drop mounts. i don't really understand why i had problems and others haven't. Edited May 25, 2012 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boozshey 12 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 I only can hope my car comes up looking half as nice as yours! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klevor 10 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 Second that It looks straight and well done on the body. Greeat art work. I wish it was mine.Or mine looked that great . Your workmanship and details show. Hope they get your pipes right. I know you cannot wait to hear it thump. Smooth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 sorry. i forget that i have to continually delete messages in the mailbox... the shaker was the primary reason for using the drop mounts. i really had no choice. i will say with the mounts, the engine won't be going anywhere. they really limit engine movement it's hard to say whether or not they increased vibration in the car or not (since i don't have a before/after feeling), but with the thickness of the isolator and it's stiffness, it's hard for me to believe it wouldn't dramatically increase the vibration levels. dropping the engine can also cause problems with a z-bar, mechanical fan, steering, crossmember if you go that route. i've only read of one other person to have potential steering linkage issues with the drop mounts. i don't really understand why i had problems and others haven't. Thanks for the input!! I'm using an electric fan setup, as well as a Hydraulic clutch. So, those two things shouldn't be issues for me. I just hope my steering linkage won't have the same issue your's did, and that the crossmember is trouble free too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) here's a comparison of standard 1142 bulb (i believe unique to 69's?) compared to the 1142-CW45-T led. i wanted a whiter light so i went with the cool white color. i would image the warm white option would have looked more stock. specified current for the 1142-CW45-T bulb was 240mA. an 1142 is specified at 1.6A. my volt gauge dropped about 0.4V with the reverse lights on. it barely tickled with the replacements. According to the MU catalog, the back up bulbs for 69-73 should be 1156, and 1142s are for 65-68, but apparently they are interchangeable. I just ordered the spring loaded paddle wheel type 1156 bulbs from superbrightleds.com so I hope they appear as bright as the tower style you purchased. Also, I installed the 360 degree blue dash bulbs: WLED-xHP9-T: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb Miniature Wedge Base Bulb(194/168 type)Tower type with 9 High Power SMD LEDs 9~30 VDC, 360 Viewing Angle, 35 lumen Polarized bulb I left two incandecent bulbs in place, one in each of the outer pods and my dimmer works fairly well, although I can't say for certain that that's the reason why, and I will probably just leave it at the brightest setting anyway. It made a huge difference, and I don't think it's too bright at all at least for my old eyes. I wonder if I had used the yellow lens if it would appear more blue green like the original lighting?? Maybe an experiment for another day. Edited May 22, 2012 by 69gmachine unnecessary text Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) According to the MU catalog, the back up bulbs for 69-73 should be 1156, and 1142s are for 65-68, but apparently they are interchangeable. I just ordered the spring loaded paddle wheel type 1156 bulbs from superbrightleds.com so I hope they appear as bright as the tower style you purchased. my reverse lamps have two contacts. the 1142 bulb uses two contacts. the 1156 bulb uses a center contact and the metal base as the second contact. the two bulbs are not interchangeable. the 69 ford shop manual indicates an 1142 bulb for the mustang backup lamps. Edited May 25, 2012 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 23, 2012 Well crap! Thanks for the info though. I hope they let me exchange them for the correct ones, because they certainly aren't cheap! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 23, 2012 i noticed some catalogs indicated the 1156 and some the 1142. very confusing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
