Cruzzar
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Everything posted by Cruzzar
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As I recall the drum brake spindle is very easy to adapt disc brakes to. I would definitely not get rid of them. I put a set of Baer brakes on my 70 that originally came with the drum brakes. They are just as strong as the Mach 1 disc brake spindles.
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RPM thanks for the heads up, I think I have deleted all previous messages. Mach1 please resend your e-mail. ImageShack (my photo hosting program) decided to start charging for each photo posted a while back and I did not sign up, so they blocked out all of my previous posts. Is there another posting site that does not charge a fee? If anyone wants to see a video of my car there was a video of it made while at the All Ford show at Knott's. If you go to YouTube and type in "1970 Mustang owner built" it should come up.(Guy Evans)
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Mach 1 driver, I have not visited this forum since it went down with a virus many moons ago. Evidently the site lost all of its data when it was resurrected since I had posted information on my electric outside mirrors. If you will pm me your e-mail I will see if I can find my old pics of the conversion. I used the electric servos from a honda civic (as I recall). The driver's side was really easy but the passenger side required a special bracket that I made on my mill.
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I had my housing on my '70 narrowed 1 1/4" per side from the stock dimension to provide a 'more reversed' effect. I went with a custom setback to get a good fit for the 18x10 rims.
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Blueblood, sorry for not responding but I didn't see your request for additional pictures of my '70 until today. Probably the best pictures can be found on here http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea..._ford_mustang/. I have recently sold the '70 so it is no longer in my stable.
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Blueblood, sorry for not responding but I didn't see your request for additional pictures of my '70 until today. Probably the best pictures can be found on here http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea..._ford_mustang/. I have recently sold the '70 so it is no longer in my stable.
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Blueblood, sorry for not responding but I didn't see your request for additional pictures of my '70 until today. Probably the best pictures can be found on here http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea..._ford_mustang/. I have recently sold the '70 so it is no longer in my stable.
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I used a mirror out of a 5.0 mustang convertible but the same mirror can be found in other makes of automobiles. Be sure to get the mirror, metal attachment that glues to the windshield and the plastic cover that covers the wires coming from the headliner. Since you have a convertible I suspect you can route your wires under the stainless top header since you have no headliner. The mirror attaches (glues) to windshield just like the stock one does. The mirror I got from pick-a-part had the same shoe as the stock '70 mirror but I don't think it was mounted the same distance down from the top as the '70 mirror was. I installed a new windshield so I'm not sure of the measurements. I like the fact that you have an overhead light source when you get into your car at night. I seldom used the map lights but they are there when needed.
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I used a mirror out of a 5.0 mustang convertible but the same mirror can be found in other makes of automobiles. Be sure to get the mirror, metal attachment that glues to the windshield and the plastic cover that covers the wires coming from the headliner. Since you have a convertible I suspect you can route your wires under the stainless top header since you have no headliner. The mirror attaches (glues) to windshield just like the stock one does. The mirror I got from pick-a-part had the same shoe as the stock '70 mirror but I don't think it was mounted the same distance down from the top as the '70 mirror was. I installed a new windshield so I'm not sure of the measurements. I like the fact that you have an overhead light source when you get into your car at night. I seldom used the map lights but they are there when needed.
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I used a mirror out of a 5.0 mustang convertible but the same mirror can be found in other makes of automobiles. Be sure to get the mirror, metal attachment that glues to the windshield and the plastic cover that covers the wires coming from the headliner. Since you have a convertible I suspect you can route your wires under the stainless top header since you have no headliner. The mirror attaches (glues) to windshield just like the stock one does. The mirror I got from pick-a-part had the same shoe as the stock '70 mirror but I don't think it was mounted the same distance down from the top as the '70 mirror was. I installed a new windshield so I'm not sure of the measurements. I like the fact that you have an overhead light source when you get into your car at night. I seldom used the map lights but they are there when needed.
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Having never had another mustang I have nothing to compare to. I had the complete air ride suspension on my '70 and found it to ride relatively smooth and slightly firm. It did translate road imperfections such as concrete joints and pot holes with a firm jolt. This is probably expected when you run a lower profile tire (245/40/18 & 275/40/18 on 18x8 and 18x10 rims). One advantage with the air ride is that the suspension bags work as a variable rate spring. At ride height it is a comfortable ride and as the suspension is compressed the theoretical spring rate increases as the air is compressed to the point I don't think I ever bottomed the suspension out. The instructions indicate that the car will set about 2 inches lower than stock after installing the package. I set my car a little lower than that (I believe). The distance from the floor to the top of the front wheel well lip was 24 3/4" (front) and 25 1/2" (back) when the car was at ride height. I really liked the option of raising the car when entering a parking lot or encountering a speed bump (never scraped the bottom in 5500 miles) while having a relative low driving stance.
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That is correct. Don't tighten the bolt down until you have let the car back down on the ground and jumped up and down on the suspension to 'settle' the suspension and then tighten it down when the car is a ride height.
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Is JME still in business?
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I always thought the the inliners were a great design with near equal runner length from venturi to intake valve. I wonder why they didn't continue to develop it after they banned the boss motors, was it because of space limitations?
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Hey DOZX, are you going to run that inline Autolite carb on your new car? Neat looking but sorta of a pain on the street.
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1969 mach aftermarket cruise control install
Cruzzar replied to Jetwrencher's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I have a Rostra cruise control on my '70 fastback, it has a 427 windsor, TKO 500 and 750 QFT carb. I am using an elect. speedometer (AutoMeter) and I pull the speed sensor for the cruise control right off the back of the speedometer. I don't know if other electric speedometers have this capability. I installed a shut off switch on the clutch pedal when I had the whole thing out to install the ball bearing on the pivot shaft. I use it all the time I am on the freeway. -
I'll see if I can get a pic of it. You can't hardly see the pump anymore. I've got a friends 39 Ford coupe on my rack now so it might be a few days.
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I have got one installed on Cruzzar and have had no problems with it. It does look like a quality product but it is not wisper quiet. I can hear it running as I idle but it goes away as I get up to speed. I have it mounted with lourd mounts (rubber isolators) and have built an enclosure around it lined with dynamat and I still hear it at idle. I have never had any other electric pump installed to compare it with and it may be one of the quietest pumps on the market but it is not as quiet as I would like. Just my .02 cents.
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If your brackets are powder coated be sure to run a ground wire from alternator to block.
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Z-bar pivot in small blocks that are lowered
Cruzzar replied to Patriotgamez's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
You could remove the pivot that screws into the block and purchase a engine side pivot that bolts onto the bellhousing (they are made for the late model blocks that have no threaded hole in them for the pivot) and modify it by cutting and rewelding to make it hang down a shorter distance or make one from scratch. This would keep the main shaft of the z-bar horizontal as designed and not shift the other rods out of alignment. -
Are you talking about slicing and making the forward, inner wheel well area wider to accommodate wider tires?
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Remove the power seat motor assembly for the bottom of the seat. It will reduce the seat height significantly. I had seats out of a 87 t-bird (same seat) and had to give up the power part. Cool idea but they take up a lot of height.
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Not without a tremendous amount of work. Trying to affix the stock Mustang II front sheet metal to your mustang's is a pain and should be engineered which is beyond most people's budget and besides they look sort of clutsky. The kits are really complete, look good but still require welding skills. The stock front ends can be rebuilt to handle much better than what you describe with a lot less money and no welding involved.
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You might want to ask if it is 304 or 409 grade. The 304 is the food grade and can be polished to a high gloss while the 409 can't, if that matters. Both are stainless and will last a lifetime. You will need some mandrel bends if you are going to build it yourself. If you are having a muffler shop bend them, then the straight tubing will do.
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Snookman35, love your attitude. Every time you get in your finished car you will enjoy it more than what it was before and you bettered your construction skills in the process.