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Found 11 results

  1. Hi all. Im new to this site (not new to mustangs). My name is Terry and have been a long time member of other Mustang and Ford forums. I am a retired Air Force Jet Engine Tech and am currently in the machining buisness. I am getting ready to retire from this current job and start my own machining buisness. I will be making aftermarket parts and have started with reuseable drilling jigs/templates to perform the popular Shelby modification to relocate the upper control arms for better handling If you are anal like me and like things to be "dead on" and not "close enough" then consider this. No paper template and pilot drilling just bolt on and drill. CNC machined to exact specs. Also available for 65/66. $25 plus shipping
  2. I've tried some searching, but haven't directly found the answers to what I am trying to do. I am short on classic mustang experts where I live. I do have similar problems on my 1969 and my 1964.5, but I believe they have different problems/needs. My goal is to have a comfortable driving experience that doesn't break the budget. Except for maybe new shocks, the rear suspension will not change. Right now both are "squirrelly" on the highway, feel EVERY crack in the road, and feel like something is about to fall off when there is something larger than a crack. I know I need to look into the steering part of this by making sure that its packed with grease with the possibility that it/they might need to be replaced. The 1969 has a rebuilt front suspension with the same shocks (Monroe) with 18 inch wheels with disc brakes. I believe the 18 wheels (previous owner put them on) are a part of the problem in its current setup. So should I get new shocks? Which brands are best for daily driver? Should I install a negative camber wedge kit? https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Suspension_Tuning-367-1.html Should I also install a bump steering kit as well? https://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-bumpsteer-kit-1967-1969/p/BSK2/ What else would you recommend? (we are already at 55 + 355 + 190 = 600.00 in parts) The 1964.5 (I know I'm technically in the wrong forum, but I believe the problem/solutions can apply) I have not spent my full attention on yet. It has the "Granada swap" disc brakes and 15 inch wheels. I am not sure of the condition of the suspension parts. Should I just do the "Shelby drop" since it has 15 inch wheels? Purchase correct geometry spindles? http://www.discbrakeswap.com/Mustang Disc Brake Conversion Kits Parts SWAP.2.html and replace any worn out components What else would you recommend?
  3. Guys, I'm about to lose it! I got an entire suspension setup (just for street driving/daily driver) from global west which came with Double Adjustable Viking shocks and now my car is SO bouncy! I hate driving my car now! It looks so great and rides so terrible. I've tried so many different settings and none seem to be close to a normal ride. Right now I'm at 1C 4R and that's about the closest I've been, but I'm still boy confused so much on a road that seems pretty flat. I have 18" torque thrust 2's with meaty low pro Nittos. I got All Global West uca and lca, sway bar, frame rails, Shelby drop, Monte Carlo, Viking DA coilovers in front, reverse eye leafs w DA Vikings in rear....borgeson ps if moreinfo is needed I'm glad to give it! Just PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!
  4. nickjames138

    Which Suspension

    Hey guys, I want better handling in my car. I want it to handle like a newer car (some say you can't do it, others say you can get it better than a newer car). I started out with 5k in mind, but I just got a quote from TCP for $10,500. Now that's a complete suspension (Rack, Upper and lower, coilover, strut rods, antiroll, pumps, hoses etc for front, Subframe Connectors and G-bar coilover setup with antiroll in the rear). I definitely want the internals of my car to be brand new since I'm slowly transforming this car into a daily driver for decades to come. I'm just double checking my work to make sure this is the route I should go or are there components I should switch out from TCP to another brand? Also, I would love to have a lower cost, but I've heard that Unisteer is a cheap rack from a few different shops. I've also heard cons about Flaming River. Who has switched to a Rack? How do you feel about it? As of now I have a pretty stock car with a fairly new manual steering box, Willwood disks all around, 18" wheels and it's fun to drive. I'm just getting sick of manual and I'd like it to handle better around corners and be easier to drive.
  5. premix

    '69 Mach 1

    From the album: Another '69 Mach 1

    Front suspension by SOT
  6. Well, here we are the day before Thanksgiving. Some of us are stuck at work, some are traveling, and others are already out in the garage being thankful for the horsepower that has been given them. We will be closed tomorrow and Mike will be the only guy answering the phone Friday (7-3) and Saturday (8-1). That's Pacific time, of course. You can also stop in for will calls. However, that's not the only way you can save. We are not going to limit our sales to just one day, or just one weekend. All of the special pricing and discount codes are live NOW on our website. They're good through December 31st. You can use them ordering online or over the phone. CLICK HERE To View Sales and Discount Codes on Suspension and Chassis Components from Total Control Products!
  7. Hello all, I'm glad I found this forum. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice here. I have a 69 coupe that I started restoring 8years ago. Then the kids started coming, and the car restoration stopped. I got it back on the road last year, but I really don't like putting my kids in it the way it likes to drift all over the road. Unfortunately, I really don't have any real money to put into it these days. But I found a guy selling an entire Mustang II front end. I know the are kits that you can buy for the car, but will it work just using the actual front end from the 2? Thanks in advance for any help.
  8. I've got my engine parts on order to get the motor running. Next project is suspension and steering upgrades/replacement. 1. I'm want to replace it all with stock style suspension with upgrades like adjustable strut rods and roller spring perches. I also want to do the UCA drop and install an export brace. 2. For the steering I have stock power steering with new valve, power ram and rebuilt pump from Chocko and and want to do new tie rod ends and roller idler arm. I've been looking at ORP, Daze and Street or Track. It gets a little confusing because ordering kits from one site or another include different parts. Also, I don't readily see things like the sway bar bushings or rubber bump stops. Should I just replace the sway bar? Does anyone have a good list of the parts I need to check off on this job? This is the first time doing this for me and I'd hate to get sidelined half-way through a weekend of work because of something that I forgot to order. When I get to this it should be the last thing before I can drive my car again.
  9. Hey guys! I am new to this forum and have a question about some parts on a 73 Ranchero GT working on my 69 Mach which I'm building into a driver Boss 429 tribute. I just bought the Ranchero for the 429 4V and the auto trans but I'm wondering if I can use anything else from it? PS setup, PB parts, AC system, pedals, steering column, etc? My car is a rolling shell of all new metal so anything I can use from this Ranchero is a big help to me. The Ranchero is a complete running and driving car that is just rotting and the interior is shot. Being a 73 its not worth saving but the engine and trans can be built and are worth something to me! :laugh: Thanks in advance for any input guys! Brad..
  10. All, I am in the midst of restoring my 69 coupe, and my 14 yr old son has been having a great time helping me. So much so that he began to want to have his "own" car (I kept telling him he wasn't stealing my baby..) As fortune would have it, a beautiful 71 coupe popped up for sale locally. Great shape, good driver, and many,many parts in common with my 69. So - being the "coolest dad ever", I snatched up the vehicle, and well now I am wanting to make this the safest mustang ever when he starts driving next year. So far, on suspension we have replaced front bearings, front strut bushings, both lower control arms including ball joints, and all 4 shocks. We also got a good alignment. We replaced the master cylinder and already have front disc brakes, which now has good hard pedal. I'm considering putting disc brakes on the back, but it's a $500 upgrade, and frankly, the current system can lock em up, so I'm not sure how much of an improvement that is for the money. I'm not afraid of the work however - looks like it would be fun. I want to put a great set of shoulder belts in (it has some old stock shoulder straps -no retractor- which clip into the lap belt) , but don't know what kind to get. It's got the tiny chrome round bullet mirrors, which I would like to replace with something a little larger. But what else? How can I make this car safer for my son? The coolest dad would quickly turn into the saddest dad if his kid gets hurt in this car. The car starts/runs great, steering has very little slack, and the braking is smooth/straight. I'd like to hear all your ideas for safety improvements. Aftermarket and all. Thanks for the help! Jay
  11. I have pulled the front strut rod (drivers side) on my 69. When I followed the shop manual, it said to pry the forward washer forward with two 18in pry bars on either side to "separate the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve". My parts are all original (I believe), and these sleeves were stuck so bad that I pulled the flange of the inner sleeve through the hole in the forward washer. See pic. No big deal really since I have a rebuild kit. However, the rebuild kit I have doesn't use the inner/outer sleeve design. My new kit has a single "fairly thick" sleeve, 2 bumpers, 2 washers - but only a single piece that could go on either the front side of the frame hole, or the back side. The pic shows this configuration. There are no instructions with the kit. Does it even matter which side I put the "frame washer" (for lack of a better word)? Let me know if anyone has any idea how this is supposed to go... Thanks, Jay
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