SM69Mach

I used Street or Tracks kits that uses the SN95 Rear brake calipers.

I am sure that will look great...but I might be biased :)

Sorry to hear about your bad luck on the trip. These old cars are always an adventure, but sounds like it is good hands to the repair work and hope it all works out. At least you got on the road some, my motor is out of the car for some wiped cam lobes and bad cam bearings. So I feel your pain. Good luck with all the repairs and getting it back on the road.

Good luck guys and get plenty of pics. Didn't work out for me this year. Maybe next year.

I cant really comment on the kit that you linked to, but I can tell you that I had stock power 11" disc up front stock and converted to 13 in Rotors and disc out back and it made a HUGE difference for me. I am however using the Bullitt/cobra caliper and the ones in that kit appear to be a bit more stout than mine, so I can imagine that there would be some difference. I run Baer Rotors and I have no complaints with the set up.

That is one sweet set up. I like all the changes made. Very nicely done!

Hey All Figured I would post these here first. I changed over to the black wheels that are on the car now, and really have no need for these except taking up room in storage. Rears are 18X10 with Nitto DR's size 305/35/18 Fronts are 17X8 with Summitomo 245/45/17 Will need lugs and center caps as I used them with the new wheels. Tires are in great shape, not many miles at all on them. Rear wheel has a couple of nicks on it, but not very noticeable. I am located in NC, will ship them at buyers expense. $900OBO

I will have to dig through my paperwork to be sure as I ordered it through Gateway Classic Mustang. I was originally going to use their set up but couldn't get it to work with the big block and headers.

I went with the Ididit column and it worked out great. ZERO regrets on this system, and honestly would rank this one of my favorite mods for driving the car. If I measured turning radius I am sure there would be some, but from the driver seat, its hard to tell. I have not had one circumstance were low turning radius has caused me any issues. In fact, it feels better since I don't have to me moving to start turning the wheel like I did with the old non power set up.

I opted for the unisteer system when I upgraded my suspension. Bolted right up. I enlarged the holes they had for the LCA eccentric bolts cause I used eliminators, but other than that no issues bolting it up. I also went with a Tilt column and new wheel and could not be happier. My old non power steering was wore out and somewhat scary to drive. Love the feel of the rack, especially with the bigger tires I am running and the weight of a big block. I don't feel like I have been to the gym after driving the car any more.

Thanks for sharing your story. Sorry for the loss of your dad, as I could only imagine not being able to work on this project with him. My dad was my inspiration for getting into cars and I am thankful that we can share time with the car now it is close to being done and drivable again. On to the car. Looks great and love the upgrades. I have a similar motor with the 445 Survival Stroker. Slightly different head and cam package, but with the 5 speed it is a friggen blast to drive. I am sure you can't wait to get it all done, but it will be worth it when it is. Good luck on all the work.

Can you just cut the longer springs some. I know it changes the spring rate, but you as high as they are, it would seem you have some room to work with them. Just a thought.

That is what I usually do, give a little more room with the engine raised a bit. I could get some of the bolts from the top and others from the bottom. Don't be surprised if you can reach some of the lower bolts from the top and vice versa as well. If you can get the starter out of the way, it also gives you a bit more room to work. The exhaust was always the biggest PIA for me on pulling and putting the motor back in. Other than that was always pretty straight forward. I never had any issues with the MC/Brake booster being in the way.

Good luck. Either way with or without headers on its a tight fit. I have never pulled or installed with the headers on in my car. I just cussed my way through putting the headers on with the motor already in the car. After a few times doing it its not all that bad. Of course having a buddy with a lift sure is helpful.

Sucks to hear about and see the damage. I don't have any other advice than what was given already, but good luck with getting it worked out.

Just seeing if anyone had any plans to go to the Good Guys Show in Raleigh April 17-19. I plan to be there with the car. If anyone is planning to go, maybe we could meet up at some point over the weekend.

When I did my swap I used the Modern Driveline kit just for the ease of getting everything I needed. I also opted for this since I have a big block. I know some of the small blocks you can get different bell housings to fit some of the TKO's (I am not sure what fits what) but that could help save some money. I found a good deal on the tranny and then got everything else from them. Even helped during the install with some questions I had. Was easy enough to call them up and they walked me through a couple of things. I probably could have saved money by searching around for the cheapest price on every item, but I like what they put together and was happy with the Customer Service. As for the trans tunnel. I did not have to modify mine to get the trans to fit. I ordered their trans mount that lowers the back of the trans but it didn't fit properly, so I ended up using my stock mount and modifying it a bit to fit around the bottom part of the trans. Worked out fine with no issues. Now, its a tight fit, but I did not have to modify anything in the tunnel to get it to fit. The tightest spot is thee cross over brace in the tunnel. You may have to clearance some there. Just for reference, I used their hydraulic clutch set up with the hydraulic TO bearing and not the salve unit. Just a personal decision, as I know a lot of guys go for the slave unit as it is easier to repair/replace if something goes wrong. So far no issues. I also bought their offset shifter and it fit perfectly in the shifter hole with no modifications either. Good luck, I certainly have enjoyed the car much more since the 5 speed swap and the lower RPM's while cruising are a nice bonus.

I ended up going the stroker route as well using one of Barry's kits. By the time I was to reconditioned everything I had, with new pistons, it was only a little more to get the full kit from Barry. It was a fairly simple build with just a bore on the block and everything slides right in. As mentioned above,definitely get a hold of Barry's book as there is some great info in there on all of the FE stuff. I did a pretty mild build and it is still runs pretty darn good with tons of low end torque. Good luck.

Awesome work and great fab work. That is great that this is a family project and your son is so into it. That is really what helps keep our hobby going by passing it down generations. Great job!!!!

Looks great!!!!

Maybe it was just the angle, it just seemed taller than what I remembered my set up to look like. Looks like a decent fit on the shaker.

I don't have a shaker and using a Edlebrock RPM intake so I cant really help much, but that intake looks tall.

I used the TMI panels as I had the seats from them as well. Good quality product. I wasn't super concerned about original as my car is modified, but it is a good quality piece.

Was thinking the exact same thing......WINNER!!!!!!

The sides are wood and the trunk lid piece is made from foam yes. Its pretty light.