Rip Rock

The jic fittings can be painted, powder coated and anodized. I have done this before. If powder coating or painting, tape the threads off. A cheaper alternative on hose would be Ac Delco green shield hose http://www.acdelco.com/content/dam/ACDelco/North-America/ACDelco/nscwebsite/en/Home/Auto_Repair/PDF%C2%B4S/Maintenance/Belts_and_Hoses/professional-fuel-line-fuel-injection-hose-ACDelco.pdf I have not personally used this hose, so I have no further info about it. I however run goodridge ptfe Kevlar braided hose( this hose is not for the faint of heart! Major pocket digger). Light weight, very flexible and can run any type of gases and oils. The down side is that you need to buy their socket ends. Then there are some socket ends that only come in certain colours. When I ordered my hose and sockets, I got the company to anodize the sockets for me. I got the raw looking alum finish sockets and got the anodized black. It was cheaper than for me to do it. Here is a reference picture, some random web site I seen and have no idea about the web site https://www.google.ca/search?q=goodridge+fuel+hose&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=imvn&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&fir=fFuzLGlI2zB8DM%253A%252C3MS8lkgT35j22M%252C_%253B0MLXxMZ6BszGsM%253A%252C6S61f2NOFT8rIM%252C_%253BBX1Hgbd7N9DDVM%253A%252CjaTGKoXkgBFPeM%252C_%253BmLxLXfUbp_WADM%253A%252CdzetbnTtm4s0PM%252C_%253Bqw1O77nHDcNQ5M%253A%252CsUI1waLyBrMhwM%252C_%253B2jQrx-t5DdgWUM%253A%252CmlBuP6Nk-bevvM%252C_%253BPIR_2pvtTCWVlM%253A%252CyXBS6HWCX86w1M%252C_%253BuBCkq_3BlH90BM%253A%252CTsntYQn2LneFKM%252C_%253BAL6sGUTWvDFVQM%253A%252CJpKz-ZXReg17tM%252C_%253BIZuZLnyTWcmc7M%253A%252CDS7pQYm4tGrYvM%252C_&usg=__ux-Nng7CFXVv0k-zrBAg6gs93jQ%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwitotrp7KPLAhUNyGMKHS_DDAYQsAQIJQ&biw=1024&bih=728#imgrc=iDMFsX2m3IYtoM%3A Both of my cars are compatible with any type of fuels. It's a good practice to do imo, will save some headaches down the road. Pay me now or pay me later is what I was thinking. The pay me now part I thought was the cheaper alternative with my luck!

I can help out on the #4 question. I vented off of the filler neck. Did a loop to help prevent the gas smell. So I went to the drivers side, then looped it going up first then down and back towards the drivers side. Made a hole on the drivers side floor (trunk area) and then went down. Under the car I have a small k&n air filter on it. No gas smell. I also bought a new gas tank. Cut a big hole in it. I have 2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps. I cut a hole on the bottom of the tank were the pumps are and made a bowl like area. It's like a modern system, the sender and pumps drop in from the top and the oem sender hole was welded up. I have 1 -10 line per pump which feeds each side of the engine. The hole on the bottom of the tank was to make sure the pumps always have fuel no matter what situation the car was in. My vent line is a -10. The rule of thumb is to have the vent line the same size as the feed line or bigger to prevent cavitation.

Currently I use dynomax mufflers, due to there straight flow design for less back pressure with my set up. When I had the old 351c in my car , I loved the sound of the magnaflows with the Sanderson headers. I didn't like the sound with my hooker long tube headers and the magnaflows. The exhaust manifold design has lots to do with the sound as well imo, just something else to keep in mind.

If that's what he was driving at the time then yes I would have. Lol

You should of asked to see his car then pick that apart, hahahah Agreed rpm

I have a fluke dmm and a fluke clamp meter. I basically retired my dmm. The clamp meter does everything I need and use it often. http://www.fluke.com/fluke/caen/electrical-testers/clamp-meters/fluke-337.htm?PID=70328 This is the one I have. Discontinued, however there is better units than mine out there. Clamping a wire is a nice feature. I did this the other day. Had a no start on an ls foxbody swap. Clamped the starter wire to find out the cable was too small for starting. With a dmm, I would never found this problem. I can still check for ohms, ac power and dc power ect.

Had the same issue when I was on the factory spindle on my 70. Mine cleared either front or rear on the front. I chose facing the rear to match the rears. On my mustang 2 front end, I made calliper brackets. I am unsure if 69 has slightly different spindles that is causing your issue.

I have the tcp 4 link. Some welding required. I however have not did some racing to see if it hooks good.

When I was looking for some wires 2 years ago, I wanted to get the lest noisy wire out there. The one I found for the best noise suppression were the magnecor wires. They are about average for ohms per foot, which really didn't bother me over the noise suppression.

Isn't that a bit lean? I always run my stuff around 11.7-11.8 afr under boost. On my n/a Cleveland I tuned for 11.8 as well to be on the safe side.

Isn't there any way to manually program afr settings? Say idle at 13-14.0 afr and cruising at around 15 afr and wot at 11.8 or so. The higher the afr # the leaner it will be. I have never used edelbrock efi before.

Awesome job! Digging the hood scoop.

You bet. I will have to get some better, and more pics, on how we did the exhaust.

took a scope to see in each hole. Looks like the piston. Melted on the edge.

Will be on hold for a bit longer. Had worst case on the Dyno with the supra. Compression on cylinder one is 0. Ugg. Hopefully I can get this done in a timely fashion so I can get back on the mustang.