potato

My new window finally came in.  I gave it a quick measure and its 15" and some change tall, so shouldn't be another fastback one.  :D
I got all the different parts glued to the window.  Then a couple hours later realized I managed to somehow put the front one on backwards.  Despite checking it a dozen times and telling myself not to do it, I somehow did it.  :D  Luckily I caught it while the glue was still not fully cured.  I was able to get the bracket off and cleaned up and glued on the correct direction.
Something I noticed the first time gluing the bracket on is it was a bit of a chore keeping them from tilting.  This time around, I used a couple stakes and a clamp to hold the brackets so they're at least on the same plane with each other.  Whether or not that makes a difference, I'll know after the glue dries and I go to put this thing in.

 

I think thats it then.  Time to order the correct window, and all the parts that glue to it.
And now I have a passenger window for a 69 fastback.  The only logical thing to do is buy the rest of the car that fits my window.  :D

My first guess was put the doors in the door holes and see if you can tell how your body panels need to close up together to fit better.  That may be hard with your brace right there in the door opening.
My next guess is make something that perfectly fits the door opening of your old car shell.  Thats assuming your car door still fits in the opening of the old car.
Based off some of your other pictures, you're a bit of a welder.  I say use some scrap of angle iron or steel bars and weld up and catch some reference points on all sides of the door opening.  Then take that over to your new car where you're fitting your panels together.  Use it to help decide what needs to move where.  If you're feeling crazy, start tacking the body panels directly to the jig.  :P
 
I suppose you could take that idea further.  Build a little skeleton inside your old car (that can be disassembled and reassembled in the new car).  Make some features that come off the skeleton and come to certain reference points in the body.    This lets you copy the old car to the new car by making sure a bunch of points are all held properly in relation to each other.

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Back in the 1980's a buddy of mine dropped a stock 460 into a 1970 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed. His car was missing the 428CJ.  The car was not that fast.  Spark plug changes were not fun.  Even though it was already a big block car, he had to do a lot of changes to get the 385 series (429/460) engine to work in the car.  I almost dropped a stock 429 into a previous 70 Sportsroof I had back in the 1980's.  I ended up putting a mildly built 351C in my car instead.  I'm glad I didn't put the 429 in the car. 

Here is what the door looks like behind a deluxe panel.
 

There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage.
I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.

The tbird still manages to 1-up even the grande coupe interior.  Bigger back seat with room for full sized adults instead of 5yr old kids, wrap around back seat so you could be comfortable while getting fresh with your girlfriend, I think 3 separate ash trays in the back so your kids could smoke, interior lights in the back, and the trunk is stupid huge compared to even the coupe mustang.
When I go to the shooting range, I use a jogging stroller to carry my stuff.  None of my old cars can fit the jogging stroller in the trunk except the tbird.  On my fastback, it wont even fit through the tiny door.  On my coupe, it will fit in the door, but its too wide to allow the trunk to close.  In the tbird, the stroller fits with tons of room to spare.

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.
Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.
Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.
I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
 

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.
Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.
Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.
I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
 

Whew, I got it off the jackstands and back on the road today.  I started out by putting in some 3pt seat belts.  Then the UPS man brought me the last piece I needed to button up my new fuel line.  While it was up in the air, I let it run and get up to temperature and played with the steering wheel to check for leaks.  Everything looked good so I dropped it down and took it for a spin around the block and up to the gas station.
  

I haven't ordered any yet.  They got bumped down the list a bit since i got these temporarily mercury ones.  I'm going to focus on the stuff the car needs to run and drive safely.
 
The wheels i would like to get for this are the legendary 17x7 or 17x8 cobra style ones in gray.

Yesterday I picked up a 1969 coupe.  The best way to describe this car is it has been somebody else's project car.  Its a base model 69 coupe.  There are no power windows or power seats.  A previous owner has swapped the 200CID for a 302 along with the usual things like aftermarket distributor, sensors, sending units.  Most of the electronic things on the car work as expected.  There are some things that are not working and some things that are just plane working wrong.  For example, some of the headlights dont light up, one of the blinkers in the hood doesn't blink, and when you pull the knob to turn on the headlights, it also turns on the heater blower.
I need to address the electrical in this car.  I have not come across a really great and comprehensive wiring diagram.  I have a bunch of ford shop manuals covering 1969, but they don't have much in the way about wiring.  Is there a good resource out there for a complete wiring diagram that is easy to follow for the 1969 mustangs?
And while looking into this, I am also considering trying one of those all-in-one kits to rewire the entire car.  I see a couple different ones on the market.  Is one of them better than the other?  I see some of them say they only work with the aftermarket 1-wire alternator and only works with aftermarket ignitions.  I think I would prefer one that worked with the stock configuration of the car and then let me pick and choose if I want to run a 1-wire alternator or MSD ignition box.  Do you guys have any input to which complete wiring harnesses to get and which to avoid?
Also, I have never rewired the entire car with one of these complete harnesses.  I understand the general theory behind it.  When it comes to the 1969 mustang, how far do you have to take the car apart to rewire it?  Do you have to pretty much strip everything out of the entire dash?  I will probably skip pulling the headliner out just to swap the dome light.  I'd splice the existing wire into the new harness.
 
 

I have granda front disc with global west suspension. I lowered my upper control arms 1" (called the Shelby drop) for better handling. I have 17x 8 US Mags - Bandit rims with 4.54 backspacing up front with Nitto NT555 G2 225 x 45. I have no rubbing at all. 

Its not much, but from the Ford Shop Manual;