RPM

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car.
Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around.
If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes.
Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

Thank you. No heat yet. I am planning a 4-post lift first. Here is a pic from the outside.

Will do. They have had my car since February and I know it turned into more work than they anticipated. They may not make anything on it with the way it has gone but they have paid attention to detail and I don’t mind it going slow as long as they are making progress. 

A while back, I drove over to the New Relic facility which is here in North Carolina to pick up my power window kit for all 4 windows in my '70 convertible.   Really nice to see a local Made in the USA business.  I got to tour the shop and meet the owner.  I was impressed with the quality of the hardware, wiring, etc.
The front window regulators bolt in, really easy install.   Reading the instructions (after the fact, of course), I noted that there was some "slight" modification to the inner body sheet metal required to install the rear window regulator/motor assembly. 
My fit up revealed this immediately.  So I made a carboard template to identify where the interference was.   The picture shows the rear drivers side area that requires removal - it is cross-hatched in red sharpie.  The power window regulator picture shows the approximate area of the motor/drive mechanism that interferes.
The area is adjacent to where the convertible top mechanism mounts, and it is doubled up sheet metal.
I have several options:
 - Use a cut of wheel and remove the metal.   Not doing that, as my car is painted and I am not going to spray a bunch of metal filings all over the place when cutting this metal.
 - Drill some pilot holes and use a reciprocating saw and cut the metal.   I can tape some plastic around the area and collect the metal chips.  This is not a bad option.
 - Find some original power rear quarter window regulators from a '69 - '70 Cougar or Grande Coupe/Convertible and get some rebuilt motors.
Has anyone installed these Nu-Relic rear quarter power window regulators?
Any idea where to find some OEM rear quarter power window  regulators?
Any other lessons learned/suggestions?
I am starting to love working on these convertibles....
Thanks!!!
Vic

I just reinstalled mine for about the 50th time. The screw holes on the clock bezel on mine are not countersunk, they are flat. 
 

Just spin a couple of donuts in front of the local PD ,they will gladly store it in the impound yard for you 

Pretty sure that was Zray on VMF. After a few overnight hotel stays with your Mustang parked in the lot, your level of anxiety drops considerably. 

I had both the main dash and the driver side panels finished and painted in  body color. I just put it together.
I have the VHX silver face gauges, with blue backlight. It should be a great look when installed.
 

Since the Bash began everyone parks at the host hotel, and hotels along the way. I haven't heard of one case of theft or vandalism. 

More progress.  It looks like they are getting close to paint.
 

More progress pictures. You can follow me on instagram for mor pictures at https://instagram.com/red69mustang?igshid=NzZlODBkYWE4Ng== or @red69mustang
 

When you get the no crank try to start the car in neutral & see if it cranks then. I had a problem with my first Mustang & my first car (approx 1976-77) a 1970 Coupe that would not start in park, I would have to put it in neutral to start. IIRC it was the neutral/back up switch that fixed it, but then again that was some 46 years ago & the memory is not what it used to be.

Mine had the black face ,i bought it new .
Mine was also on a shaker hood ,i will have to see if i can find a pic of the car ,it was a 69 Mach1 ,spring time yellow black out hood and black and gold side stripes ,and i could kick my self for ever selling it!

Thanks! I'm 40 but if clean shaven still get carded haha.
I borrowed the assembly table from a friend. It was great and awful all at once. The thing is just too damn high. I spent hours and hours balancing on that thing and its a miracle I never fell off. 
The TV is great its a 70". Ive got it wired to a laptop and to a 14 speaker stereo system in the shop. Its LOUD but also amazing to have Topgear/Grand Tour or any research i need to do. I've watched many many peterson restoration videos on it while im working on whatever the video is showing and it really helps to be able to see everything in detail from 15-20 feet away for sure. 

I use peel n seal from Lowes. Same stuff as dynamat- it's just a little thinner and like 20% of the price of dynamat or fatmat. You could always double or triple the layers if you really wanted to. Rubbery/tar like adhesive and aluminum skin. Can't rust, wont come off easily, its a water tight seal, and really works. 
Watch these vid for info for what I did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7xi6lAeIog&t=114s
Will do inside of door skins when the time comes. Roof is also done. 
 
 

Got my power amp, subwoofer, and PWM fan controller final mounting and wiring done today.

Yep. Be careful what you wish for. 
 

Yep. Be careful what you wish for. 
 

Used Dynamat on my 65 El Camino. Cut foot squares. Placed one inside the doors. One on either side of the roof. Then all accross the firewall until under the seat. 
 Big difference. Now I hear the other creaks and rattles better ….
 

Thanks, I see that Siless is made of butyl, so that explains that.
This has a very detailed (and very very long explanation) of how ResoNix insulates a car: https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-reference-information/
This is a short and incomplete version of how they insulate a door: ResoNix CLD (Constrained Layer Dampener) is butyl and aluminum, it goes on the door skin, then ResoNix Guardian is placed on top of that for sound deadening. It is comprised of several components, including a Hydrophobic Acoustical Polyester Cloth Facing, a 1″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, a 1/8″ thick 1lb Mass Loaded Vinyl Layer, another 1/4″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, and a peel-and-stick acrylic-based adhesive backing.
Then on the door panel area gets CLD again, and ResoNix Fibermat 25/45 (25mm or 45mm). It is hydrophobic and mold/mildew resistant. 25mm=0.98" compressible down to .158". I'm not sure how this would work on one of our cars, as the CLD is 0.158" thick, as is the Fibermat, for a total of 0.316". But they have a ton of products and I got tired of trying to decipher how this is done. By the time I need to do it they will have improved the products and changed everything anyway. 

I used a dynamat knockoff that has a soft rubbery material that does not absorb water. I used two layers in most areas, cuz more is better right? Including the one piece seat riser with center console. 
I used one layer on the inner door skins over the factory sound deadening material. So far (45,000 miles) it has remained in place. 
The carpet I used was the thicker ACC with the matting. I did have to trim the lower edges of the console to fit the seat riser hump since my console was for a non convertible. 
 
 
 

Unless you found them, moved them, then forgot where you put them...then they wouldn't be in the last place you looked, they would be in the new place you put them.

No, it will most likely be at a buddy's place above Hart Park and the Kern River. He has a nice place with some acreage and facilities. We usually hold it at local parks, but Bakersfield has smaller neighborhood parks that the needed facilities. The few larger parks require big fees which we aren't set up to cover.