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Vicfreg

Dynamat, etc, etc

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Getting to the point where I will be wanting to apply sound deadening material in my doors and trunk.  I have a thin layer of Dynamat inside my doors.  Not sure how much coverage to do there.  Also, in my trunk, was thinking to somehow insulate the trunk dropoff areas.  I am going to have a subwoofer in my trunk and want to provide as much acoustic/sound reduction as possible.  

Last question is about the floor in the car.  Planning to buy some carpet from Rock Auto, there are several options there.  I will be using a console, so don't really want super "thick" carpet.  Would prefer to use a thin layer of Dyanmat or equivalent.

Any suggestions appreciated.....

 

Vic 

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On 11/12/2023 at 6:54 PM, Vicfreg said:

 I have a thin layer of Dynamat inside my doors. 

I've often wondered how that is done, since I would think that Dynamat would absorb water like a sponge. Is a thin piece put between the moisture barrier and the inside door panel? Or is there a type of Dynamat that is water proof like butyl or something?

One type that looks very promising is to put a ResoNix barrier after their CLD.

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I used a dynamat knockoff that has a soft rubbery material that does not absorb water. I used two layers in most areas, cuz more is better right? Including the one piece seat riser with center console. 

I used one layer on the inner door skins over the factory sound deadening material. So far (45,000 miles) it has remained in place. 

The carpet I used was the thicker ACC with the matting. I did have to trim the lower edges of the console to fit the seat riser hump since my console was for a non convertible. 

 

 

 

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I've used Siless 80 mil deadener, works just the same. Lizard skin was also something I would have used, but didn't have a clean space or room to spray on the deadener.

The only difference between dynamat or other popular brands is the brand name and the thickness of it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLSP8JV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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Thanks, I see that Siless is made of butyl, so that explains that.

This has a very detailed (and very very long explanation) of how ResoNix insulates a car: https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-reference-information/

This is a short and incomplete version of how they insulate a door: ResoNix CLD (Constrained Layer Dampener) is butyl and aluminum, it goes on the door skin, then ResoNix Guardian is placed on top of that for sound deadening. It is comprised of several components, including a Hydrophobic Acoustical Polyester Cloth Facing, a 1″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, a 1/8″ thick 1lb Mass Loaded Vinyl Layer, another 1/4″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, and a peel-and-stick acrylic-based adhesive backing.

Then on the door panel area gets CLD again, and ResoNix Fibermat 25/45 (25mm or 45mm). It is hydrophobic and mold/mildew resistant. 25mm=0.98" compressible down to .158". I'm not sure how this would work on one of our cars, as the CLD is 0.158" thick, as is the Fibermat, for a total of 0.316". But they have a ton of products and I got tired of trying to decipher how this is done. By the time I need to do it they will have improved the products and changed everything anyway. 

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I used Fat Mat in my Coupe. I put it on the inside of the firewall, floors, inside the doors, quarter panel area under the Coupe rear side windows, & on the interior side of the Coupe rear seat trunk divider panel. Fat Mat says the thickness is 50 mil nominal. The carpeting I used was AAC original style molded without any additional padding underneath. I purchased mine from CJ Pony Parts.

FatMat Sound Dampening Mat Bulk Pack

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I use peel n seal from Lowes. Same stuff as dynamat- it's just a little thinner and like 20% of the price of dynamat or fatmat. You could always double or triple the layers if you really wanted to. Rubbery/tar like adhesive and aluminum skin. Can't rust, wont come off easily, its a water tight seal, and really works. 

Watch these vid for info for what I did:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7xi6lAeIog&t=114s

Will do inside of door skins when the time comes. Roof is also done. 

 

 

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Nice work Pete. I figured you to be older than you look and sound. I love that chassis table, did you build or buy it? I like the idea of a big screen in the shop to search and view project info from a ways away. I just might swap out mine for a bigger one I have. 

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Thanks for all the suggestions, I have used fat Matt, I believe Mike I got some from you a couple years ago.  I’ve also used some duct insulation from Lowe’s, that has a foil cover. I used it on my other car.  I found some dyna mat  on sale the other day on Amazon, so I bought a box of it. It’s pretty easy to use, but once it solidifies, it’s hard as hell to get off. I agree.

Was wondering if there was any kind of foam or other insulation you could put inside your backseats to quiet it down from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated

 

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4 hours ago, RPM said:

Nice work Pete. I figured you to be older than you look and sound. I love that chassis table, did you build or buy it? I like the idea of a big screen in the shop to search and view project info from a ways away. I just might swap out mine for a bigger one I have. 

Thanks! I'm 40 but if clean shaven still get carded haha.

I borrowed the assembly table from a friend. It was great and awful all at once. The thing is just too damn high. I spent hours and hours balancing on that thing and its a miracle I never fell off. 

The TV is great its a 70". Ive got it wired to a laptop and to a 14 speaker stereo system in the shop. Its LOUD but also amazing to have Topgear/Grand Tour or any research i need to do. I've watched many many peterson restoration videos on it while im working on whatever the video is showing and it really helps to be able to see everything in detail from 15-20 feet away for sure. 

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1 hour ago, Vicfreg said:

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have used fat Matt, I believe Mike I got some from you a couple years ago.  I’ve also used some duct insulation from Lowe’s, that has a foil cover. I used it on my other car.  I found some dyna mat  on sale the other day on Amazon, so I bought a box of it. It’s pretty easy to use, but once it solidifies, it’s hard as hell to get off. I agree.

Was wondering if there was any kind of foam or other insulation you could put inside your backseats to quiet it down from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated

 

Put inside the seats? Hmmm. Hobby lobby sells this foam that that you can upholster like for outdoor chairs and stuff. You cut it to shape. its very dense and also extremely flexible and expensive! But that stuff would definitely deaden sound if that's what you are after. 

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7 minutes ago, Viperpete said:

Put inside the seats? Hmmm. Hobby lobby sells this foam that that you can upholster like for outdoor chairs and stuff. You cut it to shape. its very dense and also extremely flexible and expensive! But that stuff would definitely deaden sound if that's what you are after. 

This stuff? https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Batting-Fillings-Forms/Cushions-Pillow-Forms/Smart-Foam-Pad---2-x-22-x-22/p/36442

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1 hour ago, Viperpete said:

Could be. I bought the stuff years ago. I use it for my armor. Put inside helmets and such. Hard to tell with the package covering it. 

Armor...Helmets... what the heck are you into?

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1 hour ago, RPM said:

Armor...Helmets... what the heck are you into?

Ya like literal Armor. Taught myself over the last few years how to shape metal by hand. It's fun

https://youtu.be/Ja11dXVVHc0?si=aC7S0Zr8Gtb4Mra2

https://youtube.com/shorts/1HnwM44r9A8?si=cHxkuljo9LTVMYlr

3-BF5-B6-F6-3932-4-D92-89-E3-9-F76-BD91-

IMG-4664.jpg

C45-E09-EB-E0-B3-414-C-9144-8-E2-E5-C6-F

IMG-0622.jpg

IMG-0623.jpg

IMG-0624.jpg

IMG-0625.jpg

IMG-0626.jpg

 

Everything I make is fully wearable, comfortable, and functional. 

 

 

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