aslanefe

Doesn't the SMD has wider angle? That may be the reason why it does not show pixelated. Also, SMD do not have the optical magnifier.

Or bring the car to me, I will fix/align it for you.

I can't remember the exact max shim out given in the old manuals but it was less than 1/2" difference between front and rear shims. Hopefully someone will post the max shim for you. But, if you ask me, you are wasting your time by going to alignment shops. Put a 1/2" shim under front side as I described before and see the change in wheel fitment in fender opening yourself first. Alignment shop will not do that for you because they do not want the liability. Just put the shim yourself and report back without driving the car; then we can talk about aligning it afterwards.

I was asking for pictures to make sure that my understanding of driver side tower being twisted is correct. If how you took the measurements also tells you that driver side tower is twisted, then don't worry about taking pictures for me. You want the control arms same length on both sides the same on a car with same towers to keep the suspension geometry same on both sides, but you have one tower twisted. Don't worry about adjusting the passenger side UCA too; just put a 1/2 inch shim under front of driver side UCA between the UCA and the tower which would be easy without dismantling the UCA if the bolts are long enough. If you have harbor freight close by, buy 67585. Stack them up to 1/2 inch, loosen the UCA nuts, put those shims saddling the front bolt and tighten the nuts (tape the shims together to make it easy to handle multiple shims). When you put the shim, it will push your wheel out and back, watch out for it hitting the fender opening on top when lowering the car. Have the car aligned as soon as possible (ask for max caster they can put without tire hitting some where, I have a little over 8 degrees of caster on my daily driver 69). When convenient, find a place that can twist the driver side tower back to what passenger side is. Then you can remove the shim and have the car aligned again.

If you did all the suspension work and took all these measurements your self, then you must be mechanically inclined. Take some pictures of how you get the measurements I asked about before adjusting/changing anything so we can validate if my observation/diagnosis is correct.

Can you post a picture of how you took the above measurements? Looks like driver side shock tower is bent inwards on front UCA bolt location and outwards on rear bolt location creating total of 1/2 inches of twist. This will move the left front wheel forward about 1 inch compared to right side when you get caster of both right and left to almost same degree. Temporarily, I would adjust the adjustable UCA 1/2 inches longer on front if you can, if not put 1/2 shim under front. Permenant fix would be to find a place that can twist the tower and get it correct on driver side.

My originals are like Brian's, no washers under the bolts.

He has shaker.

Helping a friend with his 69 428 CJ. He is looking for intake, heads and cam for street/strip. Wants it to fit under hood without cutting. Edelbrock 7105 intake looks like fits; anybody using it? Trickflow has a few heads with different volumes. Any suggestions on intakes/heads and cam for street/strip from folks using aftermarket parts?

Yes, if you have illumination lead on you radio, connect it to blue/red and when gauge lights come on, radio light will come on too.

@larryc94 installed an 87 tilt, manual column on his car. He told me that it was fairly simple.

I am planning to use J-B Weld Marine Weld to fill in the corroded areas of the front header on my 70 vert. Will spot sand blast to clean and get rid of all corrosion, fill them in high then file/sand it.

Even with Dakota digital gauges, I would check with infrared thermometer to make sure the gauge and sender are working properly; what if the previous owner used the wrong sender. Also, is the sender for Dakota digital installed on factory location?

How about running a wire from under S terminal to inside, and an other wire from battery + to inside. Connect a switch to the ends of the wires. Turn the key to start, if starter does not engage, do not let the key off but press the switch you just rigged up. If the engine turns over, the battery, starter and selonoid are fine.

Going from my old memory, you can undo the NSS connector at firewall and put a jumper on firewall side of the connector to bypass NSS. There are 4 wires on that connector, 2 for NSS, 2 for reverse. Can't remember the wire colors for NSS that needs to be jumped on firewall side of connector. Also, I have opened and cleaned the original ignition switches of my 69 and 70s before and used them with success.

As Eastyorkstang mentioned above, are you saying it is running hot just by looking at factory temp gauge? If so, I would get an infrared thermometer for $10-20 and measure the engine temp with it before buying a new radiator.

Thanks for the pictures; how much clearance to frame rails do you have when the steering is at full turn? Also, how much clearance to upper control arm? The reason I am asking is, I found some new 245/60/15 tires for a real good price and was thinking of buying them for all 4 corners of my 70 Grande if they fit to fronts.

Ethanol eats a lot of stuff.

Hi Jay, how would 245/60/15 fit on front with your rim, do you have ample clearance with 235s?

Just my experience; I have been using CJ Pony and NPD for a long time and have not had any problems with either of them. Any problems with my orders have been handled to my satisfaction from both and have a lot of stuff with minor damage replaced by CJ and was told to keep the damaged parts which could be repaired with not a lot of effort. Did not have any problems returning an item because of fitment issues either from both vendors. Have a stash of parts bought from CJ sales events for my projects waiting in line to be restored at half off may be more compared to prices of other vendors.

And ditching the factory suspension is up to you, I am happy with my factory set up modified for more caster, 1" drop and roller spring perches on my daily driver.

My 69 fastback is factory 351W and 70 Cougar is 351C. Same apron/shock tower as my 69 and 70 car with 302. Just the shock tower brace is different, and it does not interfere between 302 and 351.

What size radiator do you have, 20" or 24". And do you have a fan shroud? I use a 24" original radiator with original shroud and 17" fan with clutch and do not have overheating issues with AC on using 190 thermostat on my 302 but I do not get stuck in traffic for hours.

I searched the forum and found folks using 275/60 R15 tires on 15x10 inches wheels with 5 inch backspacing on rear of a fastback or coupe without cutting the axle stops and without rolling/trimming the fender lip.,Anybody know if 295/50 R15 works on same wheel without any cutting, rolling, hammering the inner fender etc and without any rubbing? Rear end is original length, and have original leaf springs.

Good news, wish her speedy recovery.