Bob & Sue

I've tried several coils MSD Blaster II, FOMOCO & Acell HiPo 45,000 volt right now I have the Acell in there now. I would go with the Blaster II. I have similar rails by Ford Racing for spark plug wire routing in the pic above by barnet best rails I've ever had keeps them separated but best of all you never need to search where each wire is going they are in order from bottom to top where they exit 1= #1 cyl, 2= #2 cyl etc. I can change a dizzy cap in 5 mins without chasing any wires. If you make your own wires they can be cut to the exact length for a clean looking setup without any chance of spark jump.

Yep it's yours. Paypal is my hotmail address.

I found a KD Tools 0-300 psi Compression Tester in a box if anyone wants it just pay shipping of $7.00.Has 1 adapter no box.Bob

The SKU: 68544-2 is the same as mine for the TMI product.

I'd call them the sku # is TMI which I think is a subsidiary of Distinctive Ind.

I can't remember the last time I changed a flat tire. I carry a 12 volt air compressor if that won't do it time for a flatbed. I want to carry a mini spare & jack just in case. Our Cad ATS V doesn't come with a spare not even an option to buy one, if it has run flats nothing in trunk if it has standard tires 12 volt dual compressor air/fix a flat junk gunk.

Duraspark II with Small Cap, New Melonized Gear GM HEI Module with Heatsink all setup and ready to drop in. The GM Module is small easy to mount puts out more volts than a Duraspark box. I have over $175 in it. I pulled it chasing another problem & went back to a New points dizzy I'm done messing with distributors. It's out of a 76 Mercury Cougar 351W $75.00 + $15.00 usps priority mail. Paypal preferred. PM me if interested. Bob

I have a Duraspark for a 351w with cap, .531 dia melonized gear & the GM HEI module with heatsink all setup and ready to drop in. I'm going to sell it for $75.00 if interested. I have over $175 in it. I pulled it chasing another problem & went back to a New points dizzy I'm done messing with distributors. The GM module is cheap puts out more volts than a Duraspark box. It's out of a 76 Mercury Cougar.

Nice work. I've been trying to figure out a way to mount my breaker bar with a 6" ext to reach the lug nuts on my 15x10 Cragars & hide the mini spare.

I need (1) 1.60 Roller Rocker Arm Ford Racing SN95 5/16" Pedestal MountI lost a roller rocker or misplaced it. I don't care what brand or color just need to finish an engine up.Hoping someone might have one laying around.Bob

Shep69, Nice clean setup. Thank you very much that's exactly what I needed to know. I'm going to use a condensor from an 89-94 Mustang it will fit just need to move some mounting holes on it. Bob

Not maintaining a battery is the biggest killer of cranking type batteries the way they're designed if you crank on it till it;s under 50% of a full charge it will shorten the lifespan dramatically. If it's a lead acid not keeping them topped off and using a dumb charger will do the same by boiling it dry. I've had 7-8 year old lead acid batteries check out like new the one in my John Deere is a 9 year old Interstate. I like AGM's just for the fact there's no upkeep to them, really doesn't matter what brand as long as it's made in the US. There's an Optima plant 20 miles from here they manufacture batteries for quite a few brands.

As stated above you don't want to disturb the factory glue just rough it up. I had to shim my passenger side because the PO had messed it all up the channels were tapered 1/4" from top to bottom. Just be as careful as you can it's not that hard of a job to do, but time consuming to do it right. Once you start you'll figure it out. It's great to have doors that close like new from the factory & don't leak. DON'T forget to spray the inside with a rust inhibitor, clean everything of old grease, lube everything including the door lock mechanism while it's apart. It's not rocket science the worst you can do is need to buy a new or old channel.

Could you measure the condensor? Mine is a factory air car also the pump has been rebuilt & converted to r34 by Original Air.

Could someone with factory air do me a favor measure the length, height & width of the condensor with a 24" radiator. Mine was punctured last year, I must have tossed it out can't find it anywhere. I'm going to look at a couple replacements that I can't return if I buy one of them. Thanks in advance for your time

PM sent RPM beat me to the 24" rad brackets. Do you have an original factory air condenser?

Yep it's a 3/4" hex made by Garage Pro. They make it easy by freeing up your hands to get the correct tension on the belt & scraped knuckles. I have one for serpentine belts somewhere that I used on Mercruiser engines the belt length was 106" on 6 or 7 pulleys it also had a dial to set how many lbs of tension was on the belt with a laser to align the pulleys to the crank pulley. Mercruiser doesn't have a self tightening tensioner like a car.

It does make you wonder what's in anything china doesn't care what they export poison in cat & dog food, chemicals banned by most countries in children's toys .

Bought this when I thought my switch was bad I paid $100.00 for it make me an offer.

Here's a pic of the one I have. I've used the wrench method too this tool makes it simple.

I have the same tool it works great probably had it for 30 plus years.

The valve guide seals could be causing your oil burn, you can rent from any of the usual parts stores a valve spring compressor without removing the heads. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/otc-4538/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--engine---clutch-19166/otc-engine-valve-spring-compressor/7928/4607081/1969/ford/mustang?q=ren The backfire might be caused by a sticking lifter or burnt valve.

Just a heads up yesterday I needed to change to a finer grit wheel on my bench grinder I have a box of wheels that came from my dad after he died. The 1st one I pulled out was a brand new Norton wheel at least 35 yrs old after going thru the box I found 2 more Norton wheels. Norton is one of the companies we sued they contain a high content of asbestos. I was sure I had disposed of them in 2004 along with all the other items we found in my dad's workroom like Bondex joint compound, kiln bricks just to mention a few. Most older 35-40 yr old grinding contain asbestos. If you have any old grinding wheels get rid of them properly, I sprayed the whole box down with water inside & out then double wrapped it with garbage bags then wrapped it with duct tape. Monday or Tuesday it will be picked up by the states hazardous material division.

Just my opinion if the front bracket is in tack holding strong I'd leave it alone ( I'm lazy ) It's the rear bracket that usually breaks loose from improper adjustment pushing against the stop & rear of window pushing against the quarter window. Rough up the old glue with sand paper & rinse it with alcohol is what I did. The vapor barrier stops moisture leading to mold & mildew on your door panels, there's a drip hole in the rear of the door vacuum it out any water in the door should drain out. I bought most of my door stuff from California Mustangs they had a sale with free shipping complete door panels, complete car weatherstripping kit, beltlines, & the rest from WCCC & CJ's. I destroyed 1 outer beltline CJ was the only one that sold outers only. I'd get new guides for $1.50 a piece the old ones can brake removing them. It's a crap shoot Cal Mustang carries Distinctive Ind door panels which are the best made. I would have changed to bolt in windows if it were a fastback couldn't see spending the money on a coupe.

Since making the video they have a new source for the repop guide inserts they are almost an exact fit. I was lucky enough when I called to order the parts to talk with Don about it.