bigmal

Painted my upper radiator support and installed my victor jr intake.   Lots of acetone used, many rags and time. I tried my best. I'll see how good I did when I finally fire it up.  I couldn't open my fancy distributor because of my temp sensor port so I filed it down a bit

I've not heard of it being done on OE early Mustang bellhousings and their manual trannys, nor an automatic. But, it's where you attach a dial indicator to the flywheel, rotate the motor, and check to see if there's any runout on the trans hole. 

https://www.moderndriveline.com/proper-bellhousing-alignment-indexing/

"I think you said you were getting your transmission angle from front engine pulley while this should be fine the transmission yoke I feel would be more accurate."
Man, if those two aren't the same angle he's got bigger problems. 
 

I've been having a random problem with not enough brake vacuum pulling up at the lights. Suspect cam related. Only happened a couple of times but scary when not expected. I fitted a vacuum canister. Initially fitted where the vent vacuum canister was located but I found it was too close to the wheel so moved it the front of the guard. The can has three ports so set up with vac in and vac out. The third port used for the vent vacuum so I have done away with that canister. Test drove and works very well. At least one job this week was a success.

I got to test drive this morning after straightened axles, new wheel bearings, rebalanced tailshaft, new universals, new yoke and new transmission extension housing bushing.
While I feel there is an improvement it definitely still has a vibration. 80 and 115 kmph is the most noticeable. While it is no longer severe, it's still not right. I keep feeling like it's the tail shaft. I can see the vibration through the shaker when driving which continues when I put it in neutral and engine returns to idle.
Running the engine in neutral and moving through the rev ranges the engine is smooth.
I would like to try a different set of rear wheels for a test drive and see if that makes a difference. I may swap front to rear for a start. It's a good thing I drink! (not while driving).

This reminds me of my first time experiencing brake fade on public streets.....  great idea on the canister 

Would love to have it all back but i have moved on . I still have 2 69 sport roofs if i get that urge again . After selling my collection and loosing the property ...because of scum ball drug selling ,well ...i just lost all interest . I may get into one of the 69s this summer as i bought a 428 un assembled but fully machined . 
@FFJD  i would really love to see more pics as you go !

Post-empting the above post, the list is certainly getting smaller.
I gave up on the alloy radiator. I couldn't get top mounts for it without fabricating them, mounting it to the side of the front panel was a pain and the lower mounts were never going to work. Not knowing what to do, except spend another $1,000, the heavens opened and a bright beam of light guided me to a local Mustang forum where a bloke was selling a OEM style brass 24" radiator that had recently been serviced. Score. So I bought that, had it sent and it was put in yesterday. New hoses, a filter and hopefully things are cool.
I finished the exhaust yesterday. Not pretty as I'm not much of a thin wall welder but it is in and no leaks. I invested in some nifty clamps which came in handy with only 2 hands and 3 joins. Prior to that, my welding helmet failed and it was too dark to see. So I buy a new one. Excellent, I can now see in colour and welding is nice. But then they turn to birdshit. Why? I have a half bottle of gas. Except, I can't hear gas flowing. Why? The regulator has failed and shows half a bottle when there is zip. Zilch. Nada. Another 1 hour round trip to the gas shop.

I made a goof many years ago and bought centre entry and exit mufflers. I should have got offset as the main pipes are too close to the driveshaft

Above is a shot of the X Pipe which I bought pre-fabricated, but as it is a straight inlet and exit, it made for extra cuts and welds. I have tightened up the rear hanging mounts (which are not original ones) but if they work loose then I'll have to go to plan B. In my steel shed it is pretty loud, and while I'm a paid up member of the If its's too loud, you're too old club, I may change to offset mufflers to get a nicer result.
This morning, I ran new fuel lines to the Sniper, plugged all the spark plug wires in, set it at TDC for the timing, filled oil and water and turned the key. With a few bangs and pops it started, filled the shed with smoke from the oil in the cylinders and then settled down. The tappets need to be re-set but there are no leaks. It sure as heck is crisp and revs quick. I had one vacuum port unplugged so hard to gauge the idle lope, but as the video shows it's got a definite lump to it. As it's still on axle stands I put it into first gear and it ran smooth with no noise from gearbox and diff.
Couple of things to fix now, before I can get it re-registered;
Get a new PCV hose as the old one was cracked
New spark plug wires as the current MSD straight plug ends don't like #7 & #8 and I need 90° ends
New front brake hoses made up, as the later Falcon calipers I have put on it need longer ones
New front brake pads
Once all that is done I can do some test runs to make sure all is good and then enjoy it.
 

Bugger me. It's one thing after another. Refitted the driveshaft and test dive. A definite improvement, but still some vibration.
Back on the stands and ran it again, with and without wheels as suggested above. Definitely less vibration without the wheels. I've taken the axles to a shop and they are both bent. Surely this is the last possible thing. I'll report back once they're straightened and refitted. 

Bugger me. It's one thing after another. Refitted the driveshaft and test dive. A definite improvement, but still some vibration.
Back on the stands and ran it again, with and without wheels as suggested above. Definitely less vibration without the wheels. I've taken the axles to a shop and they are both bent. Surely this is the last possible thing. I'll report back once they're straightened and refitted. 

Bugger me. It's one thing after another. Refitted the driveshaft and test dive. A definite improvement, but still some vibration.
Back on the stands and ran it again, with and without wheels as suggested above. Definitely less vibration without the wheels. I've taken the axles to a shop and they are both bent. Surely this is the last possible thing. I'll report back once they're straightened and refitted. 

I got the repaired tailshaft back and went to fit it. The new yoke is longer than the old yoke so it wouldn't fit. I took it back to them yesterday to have it shortened 3/4". Starting to lose confidence with this company. Next will be the argument of paying for all of this. Fingers crossed the vibration is gone at the end.

I got the repaired tailshaft back and went to fit it. The new yoke is longer than the old yoke so it wouldn't fit. I took it back to them yesterday to have it shortened 3/4". Starting to lose confidence with this company. Next will be the argument of paying for all of this. Fingers crossed the vibration is gone at the end.

Update: I took the drive shaft back to the company that made it and they found a thrust washer missing from inside the rear uni cap. This will make the uni offset about 1mm. I saw a washer on the floor of the garage and didn't recognise it so added to the washer box. This explains why the vibration got worse after changing the transmission bushing. Extremely happytto find that. They have put the shaft on their balancer and said it is slightly out of true. They are repairing it today and I am getting a new yoke and two new uni's just to be sure. I'll report back as soon as I have driven it again. Fingers crossed!!!

The guys that did my shaft (I dropped you a PM) made sure I knew about that little issue of losing the washers.
Hopefully this fixes it for you.

Update: I took the drive shaft back to the company that made it and they found a thrust washer missing from inside the rear uni cap. This will make the uni offset about 1mm. I saw a washer on the floor of the garage and didn't recognise it so added to the washer box. This explains why the vibration got worse after changing the transmission bushing. Extremely happytto find that. They have put the shaft on their balancer and said it is slightly out of true. They are repairing it today and I am getting a new yoke and two new uni's just to be sure. I'll report back as soon as I have driven it again. Fingers crossed!!!

Thanks Bob, will give it a go

Hi mate, yes a new tailshaft/driveshaft. I had the same problem with the previous driveshaft which is why I've replaced it with new good quality uni's. I must be close because what ever I did has affected the vibration (worse). Actually to the point where I am afraid to sit at that speed for fear of throwing the driveshaft.
As I have disturbed the rear shock mount I will check the pinion angles again just to make sure nothing has changed. Juts need to be away from it for a few days.

Installed the oil pressure & coolant temp sending units along with the proper fitting harness ends. Now I just have to hook it to the wiring harness.

 

When I replaced the flex plate that I had damaged I told the engine shop bloke that I had replaced it. He said If I bring the old and new flex plates he can balance against the old. I had already thrown it out. Still kicking myself.

Just for info, internal parts have weight removed and added to them on an external balanced motor. 

I would get car up far enough to get under and make sure it can't roll and put in neutral so there is no pressure on driveshaft. Then see if you can move it around if not it is probably ok.

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

I reached out to Danno and I'm happy to report that he is ok and still has the Mustang. He says life got busy but plans to return to the site when things subside and he has the time again. :)

I think you are right to be troubled about the flex-plate.  That would be my first guess. Brian