Zefevinee

I have a 69 coupe with deluxe black interior (with a rare bench seat), and for some reason the shoulder belts are missing, but the strap holders/clips are still on the headliner just above the side windows.  
 
The belts are long gone, so does anyone have idea on how I might find NOS or good condition original shoulder belts (black)?   
 
And if the originals are too hard to find, anyone have a parts company that sells good reproduction Mustang parts?   I do need to order a complete set of new rubbers as it's going into the paint booth in Feb. 
 
- Ps: no rush to buy repos, because I'm restoring the car (for my older brother who doesn't even know the project is underway) and I have some time to "do it right" - hoping to get it all finished by his birthday (Oct 2017). 
 
Best, Glenn   

My s code 390 is a light blue ,what is the correct colour for it and who makes the best engine paint.

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.


 
 
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Scissors
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
 
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
 
 
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
Picture 1

To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
 
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
Picture 2

I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
 
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Picture 3

Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
 
Step 4: folding over the edge
Picture 4

In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
 
Step 5: cutting holes
Picture 5

In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)

next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
 
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

Just picked up my engine from getting rebuilt. Was told that the factory cast iron headers rob the motor of 40 HP . I'm considering headers but not sure what actually fits with modifications. My friend with a 390 car had to modify a lot to get to get them to fit.

I am going to install a Shelby Roll Bar (probalby the Tony Branda Version) in my 1970 convertible.  Some questions I am seeking answers to:
 
1.  Any recommendations on supplier?
2.  Any pictures, advice, etc  of the fit up and weld up of the brackets that are required to install the roll bar?
3.  Any pictures, advice, etc,  of the "measure twice and cut once" operation required to do surgery on the convertible interior rear side panels?   It looks like you need to cut the top off of the existing metal ones and graft them somehow onto the new panels.
4.  Any do it yourself options to build a roll bar and cover it?
 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
 

Now that the front suspension & the front disc brake conversion are completed the next work will be the rear springs & new rear gears. For the rear gears I was looking at the Summit brand ring & pinion & was wondering what everyone thinks, they got 5 reviews & all were 5 stars. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-740901.

Got a 4160 (0-80508SA) and after a disappointing dyno night i decided to start figuring out why. I hooked my AFR gauge back up and did some WOT pulls on the road. During WOT my afr's are in the 11's which is too rich. During cruising and normal driving, everything is good. 
 
I called Holley and they said i need a secondary metering plate which is about $30. I'm concerned if im not too happy with it, then Im back to buying a new plate. I found these conversions that turn your 4160 into a 4150 w/ jets. But that widens my carb and then I'd have to botch my new fuel line.
 
So has anyone here made that swap? is it a pretty safe bet that it will help with my issue or just spend the money on the conversion?

So I'm in the process of doing a front end rebuild and when I went to remove the drivers side UCA I noticed shims behind the rear part of the UCA. I'm guessing these are for alignment. After I get the car back together I will have an alignment done anyway, but should I reinstall these when I install the new UCA or leave them out?

The part that really bothers me is bondo ,it is blobbed on, and a car is sculpted from it .That is not original .you may think it will not crack but at some time it will no mater how it is applied ,40 something years of restoring cars has shown me this .Bondo was not meant for this purpose ,it was meant to hide door dings and very small imperfections .You would have to see this 67 fast Back it would make you sick HAHA ,i swear it is 1 inch thick and the entire car is coated with it .The only thing that can be done with this one is a total reskinning because i am sure as hell not sanding it all off ,it would look like it was snowing HAHA.

Is anyone here running the old style Goodyear Polyglas tires on your Mustang? I need a high res photo of an F60-15 tire for a project I'm working on. In short, I'm having some Tire Stickers made up so I can make new radial tires look like an original muscle car tire. It might look cool to add raised white letters to drag radials. or.... it might look odd. Either way it will be cheap to experiment. 
 
 

 
 

In 1989 I bought my 1st car a H-code (351W) 1970 Mach 1 for $1,995.  I worked on it through High School then life got in the way so we put it in a barn.  Now we are taking it down to bare metal and building it back.  It is a Texas car and IMO very solid but was mildly crashed before I owned the car (all hidden with filler-- but not nicely hidden).  Currently the body is straight and rust free (fingers crossed) except for 3 things.  
 
1. Drivers quarter panel-- The surface was in an accident, then pulled out and bondo filled in the damage
2. Drivers door -- Not the original door but it too has signs of damage hidden under 1/4" of bondo
3. Drivers rocker panel-- has a base ball sized dent in the center of the door- on the underside-- otherwise perfect.
 
Who do you recommend for replacement panels?
Should I skin a quarter panel or replace the whole thing?
On the Rocker Panel-- patch the damaged area or replace the whole thing?
 
Pics attached
 
Thanks for reading,
Brad