barnett468

I being a plumber, use plumbers putty

Spoken like a man with grandkids ! I usually use Silly Putty.

dont tighten the H pipe nuts until the rest of the exhaust is on because it may have to be positioned slightly differently with the pipes attached.
don't forget the cold beer . it was 94 here today
 

You can also use Play Dough or Silly Putty but put anything you use into a plastic bag or loosely wrap it in plastic food wrap so it doesn't stick to anything.
Keep in mind that if you don't want to adversely affect performance, you need at least around 1 1/2" (37 mm)  of clearance from the top of the carb to the bottom of the air cleaner and 2" (50 mm) would be better, but this clearance is sometimes less if you use a drop down air cleaner on a carburetor that has a choke on it because the choke gets close the the bottom of the lid.
 
 

Ok, here is your answer . An aod or aode converter WILL work with that crank . These converters are slightly different than the factory converter and the nose of these converters can bottom out inside the crank converter nose alignment hole when high loads are applied . If this happens, it pushes the crank forward which then puts a lot of force on the thrust surface of the main bearing which in turn can damage the bearing . Since this bearing does not have a dedicated oil hole to that surface, it can run dry which accelerates the wear/damage.
The way to prevent this problem is by simply checking the nose end clearance with the crank and the clearance from the end of the converter to the trans pump, however, the converter trans clearance is rarely too small, and it is often too large . If it is more than around .180", you can install a thin machine washer under each mounting pad.
If you have at least .125" clearance in both directions, you should not have a problem unless you have an extremely crappy converter . If the converter nose to crank clearance is still to little after the converter to trans clearance is properly set, you can simply machine some material off of the converter nose until you have around .125" clearance.
They also make converters with "anti balooning" plates, however, these are typically only used in very high hp cars . This being said, they can also be used in typical street cars but they are expensive . Call a converter mfg like hughes or coan etc for info.
You also need to check the od of the converter nose to the id of the crank clearance.
 
 
 

CAM GRINDER
Here's Chris Straubs contact info . Unlike some other people, he will talk to you without you having to fill out any forms first or without having to send him your bank statement or anything else . He also won't drivel on bloviating about how great he is . I have spoken to him several times and have sent several people to him and he is consistently courteous, polite, and respectful . I only deal with people whom have these traits and can trust , I can assure you that Ed Morel has enough money to be able to have his engine built by anyone he wants and he chose Chris Straub . He has also made cams for some of the Engine Masters entrants and has made them for a National Championship winning boat.
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/
 
Chris Straub sells parts as well, and although he does not have the lowest prices, he will give you a slight discount if you buy a lot of parts from him.
 
LIFTERS
Exactly which lifters was curtis selling you . Some of them are quite pricey, like around $700.00 . I know where to get a fairly good deal on most of the morel lifters and can give you that info . Solid lifters are less money then the ultra high perf tool steel morel ones, but morel also makes a less expensive one but it is not as strong so it is not suggested for use in some high spring pressure and high revving apps.
 
TRACTION
I would use cal tracs and mickey thompson et street radials if you want the most traction without tubbing it.
 
STROKER KIT PRICE
Eagle is typically less money and just about as good as all the other chinese ones . Don't believe any stories you might read about Eagle cranks having problems . That was long ago and not all the probs were due to the cranks. 
 
CYLINDER HEAD PRICE
I don't know where you are getting your prices from but the AFR'S are twice as much as the Trick Flow heads.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cylinder-heads/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/intake-runner-volume-cc/205cc?N=4294918484%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294918378&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
 
PISTONS
Unless you are going to use nitrous or a blower etc, I would use 4032 material pistons instead of 2618 material . Irregardless of material type, I would use custom dished pistons that mirror the combustion chamber . My friend randy gillis makes them and so do a few others like Diamond and Wiseco.
http://www.racetech.com/
 
HORSEPOWER VS INTAKE MANIFOLD
You really should get a different intake like a Victor Jr or or Sr if you want upward of 550 hp but this will cause at least some loss of power in the lower rpm range but if you want a high revving engine and fairly low gears like 391's, the loss won't make a big difference.
 
CARB SIZE
Yes, an 850 like you mentioned is a safe bet, however, I would use an annular booster type . Quick Fuel carbs are the best bang for the buck . Chris Straub has recommended AED carbs before but I don't know much about them . What I definitely would not use is the Holley Ultra HP carbs as I have seen many people have a lot of problems with them.
 
CAMSHAFTS
If you are on a budget and want t save some money using a production cam, the ones below will get you over 500 hp guaranteed . In your case I would use 1.72 rockers with either cam.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1671&gid=289
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220275-10
 
 
FORUM "EXPERTS"
Yes, it is easy to get confused by conflicting info posted by people . Unfortunately there are many well intentioned people posting info on forums that is not ideal or is sometimes even outright wrong . There are some very knowledgeable people here as well as on the yellow bullet and speed talk forums . I have been building engines and restoring cars for 45 years so I have figured out what works really well for street builds but others like Chris Straub know far more and also build outright racing engines which I do not.
 
PS - Chris Straub is also a member of this site . He signed up after I sent someone from here to him but the regular site he posts on is http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/index.php
 
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Here is an article you night like about a 675 hp 418 stroker.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0702phr-budget-418ci-windsor/
 

I will post more info later but if you want a custom cam I would go to Chris Straub , He is far more knowledgeable than Curtis and far more reputable and far more friendly and isn't just out to get your money like Curtis seems to be.
It would be best if you posted exactly what you want out of the engine . A true 600 hp engine is ridiculous for a street car.
If you want big power I would build a 418 instead.
AFR 205 heads are pricey, so if you are on a budget then Trick Flow heads are a great option and will get you similar power.
If you want big power I would use a forged internally balanced crank and an ATI damper.
If you want a hydraulic lifter roller, I would use one of the Morel lifters . Chris Straub built the engine for Morels drag car.
I wouldn't buy parts from ford strokers either  You can get most of what you need directly from Summit Racing with a no hassle return policy.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

remind me of what an AF gauge  and AF ratio is?  Anti Foul? Anti Fungus?  Anterior Federation?

Well.........Sent her to the spa for rest, relaxation and some deep tissue cleaning........

It IS a big deal because he wanted to install it with the exhaust manifolds attached . Again, cobra jet ex manifolds are NOT 390 exhaust manifolds . I have installed countless ford engines and of course it is easy without the exhaust manifolds , that's not news to me . He has already contacted me and I explained to him over the phone how I do it and if he runs into a problem while he is installing it I told him he could call me again.
 
 

Well I am not wrong in this case like you are because I also had the foresight to give the op pertinent info that he might not be aware off . After doing this stuff for over 45 years, I have learned that people do not always ask the right questions and I therefore, give them info they might not be aware of.
Also, instead of using capitol letters for "LOL" in an attempt to make it seem more sarcastic, I suggest you use an emoticon like the one below as I have found them to be more effective in most cases.
  OMG barn...I think I just peed my pants!      

Who knew a overflow bottle could create such a HEATED topic
lol

Believe me, by the time you figure out how to get it in with the trans and headers attached, you could easily have installed it the way that I do and saved a lot of stress . I also install it with the valve covers off, otherwise it's a pita to get to the exhaust bolts.
If you insist on installing it with the trans and don't have a lift, you can lift the rear of the car up more than the front to get a better angle as max power mentioned.
 
PS: I would also increase my health insurance and write out my will.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

probably can because i know they didn't use my method to do it but i don't know exactly how they would have done it.
 
heres a video that includes them installing a 289 engine and trans complete
 
 
 
 
 

ummm, yes it is true . I have had over 1000 (one thousand) cars and am fairly knowledgeable on cooling systems and none of the ones I fixed leaked coolant out and they all ran at around 187 degrees even in 100 degree weather with the ac on . Been working on these cars nearly daily for a living for around 30 years and part time for around 15 years before that.
If you have a system that is so marginal that just 12 more ounces of coolant makes it run cooler, it is too small, it's really that simple.
 
 
 
 

ok, you should run a separate air line to each shock if you keep the air shocks and they will still occasionally hit unless you increase the length of the bottoming rubbers.
also, welding a thick fender washer to the top shock hole will virtually eliminate any possibly of cracking the body there . you can also put one on the bottom instead.
 

this is what i have done numerous times with cj's.
install trans then jagk it all they way up under the bell housing until it stops then lower if 1/4".
have manifolds surfaced
tap holes in heads
use new bolts
put grease on bolt threads.
install drivers side manifold
drape a thick towel over the passenger shock tower.
wire tie the right manifold to the shock tower or ave someone hold it n place
lower the engine then engage it to the trans.
install the right manifold . you may have to lower the engine around 1 inch to do this.
lower the engine onto the mounts.
 
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Well if you really want to "Ban" me, I prefer you use some Sweet Surrender....but ya gotta take me to dinner first. 
 

ummm...bilsteins are not $40.00 a piece.
 
heres some driver grade Gabriel shocks for only $18.00 each
 
https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1970/make/ford/model/mustang?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=shock%20absorbers

Need a better pix of the rivets on the dash vin

Fuel temp, rearend temp, 4 more for tire pressures, where would the passenger sit??

Don't forget the muffler bearing grease temp sensor, and the windshield washer bottle fluid level gauge.  What about a PCV vacuum gauge?  Now that would be interesting...

I'll pass, to many gauges needed

Well if you really want to "Ban" me, I prefer you use some Sweet Surrender....but ya gotta take me to dinner first.