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larryc94 last won the day on January 4 2018

larryc94 had the most liked content!

About larryc94

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 05/24/1950

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  1. I used part # TMC-90F-51 which was the correct application for my car. The kit is made for fold down or non fold down. You have to trim to fit for which you have. With left over pieces was able to fill over the wheel houses using spray glue The trunk looks so much better. finished off
  2. I have Wheel Vintique and there 4 years old. I think the key is they never get wet and I use Wheel Wax https://www.amazon.com/WheelWax-Ultimate-Protection-Wheels-Ounce/dp/B000IMB5CC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wheel+wax&qid=1589886088&sr=8-4
  3. Anyone use one of these. I have read some reviews of the Scott Drake one. The Scott Drake one seems to have one of the gauge mountings at the wrong angle. I would assume the ACP bezel is not the Scott Drake piece? Any experiences ? Thanks ► Show Full Signature Larry
  4. West Coast Classic Cougar, heat gun
  5. I've seen them on ebay for 1k. I have EPS and I grafted the upper section of a 87 F150 floor shift column with tilt. Cost me $125 for the F150 column. Problem with some of the aftermarket columns is they use a GM key, ick
  6. Even the GM cars of this era were the same way
  7. Didn't remove the pedal to drill hole. Just apply brake to get pedal out of the way
  8. I used a alarm hood pin switch. Drilled a hole on the emergency brake bracket. Tapped into the wire going to the pressure differential sw. The foot pedal hits the plunger on the sw breaking the ground and turning off the brake warning light when the emergency brake is off.
  9. The brake warning light proveout circuit receives a ground when in the start position from the ignition sw. The warning light is powered in the run and start positions. If the pressure differential switch is activated it grounds the circuit and lights the warning light. The pressure differential switch is activated if you have a leak in the front or rear circuit or your bleeding the brakes
  10. No matter how well you drain it, rad and block drains there will be water still in there. Just drain and add the appropriate coolant. In the spring when you get it going and you have a problem, cracked block, pushed out core plugs, heater core you will wish you added the anti-freeze
  11. Those screws installed look no different than the original screw
  12. They have screws for this exact problem. The head is the correct size the threaded portion is larger https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-scuff-plate-repair-screws-for-oversized/100127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bscuff%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1970&year=1970
  13. Maybe they buy parts and pieces and then modify them. I know on the Flowkooler water pump I bought it is a GMB and they modify it with own impeller
  14. The auto insert is not as deep, you will have a space between shifter boot. You can use and don't have to trim it. If you use a m/t on an auto you would have to trim it
  15. In 30 seconds a wheel lift tow truck and it's gone. I have watch them and they don't even get out of the truck
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