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larryc94

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larryc94 last won the day on January 4

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About larryc94

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 05/24/1950

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  1. larryc94

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    Disconnect drive belts to eliminate front accessories.
  2. larryc94

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    the tabs I'm referring to are the locating tabs of the rear end yoke that the u-joint caps fit into
  3. larryc94

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    I would loosen the rear u-joint and the see if there is any play between the locating tabs in the yoke. I had a slight annoying vibration also. I had 0.012" play by pushing and pulling the joint against the tabs As a temporary fix I cut two pieces of 0.006" feeler gauge to fit between the two tabs. Looks like you have a "long" yoke, very hard to find in a 1310 u-joint size. You have to get new or you risk having the same problem. I got one at Quick Performance, only thing it is a 1330 u-joint. You have to use a conversion joint 1310 by 1330 If the above is good I would have a driveshaft shop check the balance
  4. larryc94

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    Windsor or Cleveland same flex plate, both 28 oz imbalance
  5. larryc94

    Opentracker's Roller Idler Arm

    No
  6. It's a good idea to use a test light (the old fashion filament bulb type) to ground sending unit wire. It provides a small amount of resistance as not a direct short to ground to protect the gauge
  7. larryc94

    12 Volt switched source

    Agree if you (and I'm sure you do) use OEM type open barrel connector with the proper crimping they are better than solder
  8. larryc94

    What’s this part

    Radiator baffle, fills in the space on the drivers side between 20" radiator and radiator support
  9. larryc94

    12 Volt switched source

    That green/red provides power in the crank/run position which the EFI needs to start. Also that wire is in the harness that exits the firewall and runs along the pass shock tower brace. A very convenient place to open that harness to tap into that green/red wire that goes to the regulator. Make sure you solder and shrink wrap all connections. Wire taps and crimp connectors(solderless terminals) are unreliable. Biggest cause of failed installs
  10. larryc94

    Modern Driveline Hyd Clutch Install

    Yes it mounts to hole where the clutch rod was
  11. larryc94

    Mystery Nut ?

    I just repaired mine when I installed one of Z-rays crossmembers. I used a Helicoil and it worked out great. I will have to say I have installed lots of Helicoils over my 47 year career and always having apprentices to test my ability to repair stripped broken bolts. For starters the drill size for the 1/2x13 Helicoil is 17/32 same as the Shelby drop. I took my time and lubed and kept backing tap up to clear chips. I was trying to exert the least amount of torque so as not have the "nut" spin. Worked out perfectly and when done it torqued to 55 ft lbs no problem. The time serts are a little thicker and I'd be concerned they would take more of the nut and may weaken it. Just to add I got 2 new AMK bolts and used red loctite on the helicoil and never seize on the new bolts
  12. larryc94

    Clutch Pedal

    Pulled the pedal and made a new hole 1/2" lower and now I'm getting the 1.4" stroke that the master is capable. The angle of the rod going to bell crank on the master looks ok. Really not much difference in effort if any. Looks like this will work out, thanks
  13. larryc94

    Clutch Pedal

    I figure I got room. I'm going to measure the distance between the pivot at the top of clutch pedal to the hole where the linkage goes. Going make a cardboard model and see what different places for rod result in throw
  14. larryc94

    Clutch Pedal

    Yes this was my first thought, easy to do and no harm if doesn't work. You would no see the extra hole and could afford the increase resistance as it's easy now
  15. larryc94

    Clutch Pedal

    I have a '70 and looking for measurement from back of pedal to the floor where the pedal hits floor. Looking to see if my car the distance is off from others. I have a T5 setup using the fox bellhousing about 4 yrs old. Bought everything from MDL and first had a their cable setup and had to preload the adjustment to get it to disengage which wasn't right. fast forward 6 months I add headers and ruin the cable so I ordered there hyd setup with external slave. Works well but still have to preload adjustment more than what it should be. I know the fox throwout bearings are made for constant contact not like the bearing that would have come on the older cars. But this more than just contact. MDL figured out on some '69-'70's that the master they were using wasn't adequate it was a 0.70 bore size and they changed to a 0.75 . Well it is better with the 0.75 but still not right, needs some preload to get full disengagement My problem lies in the stroke of the master, I can only get 1.2" of stroke on a 1.4" stroke master. If i got that full 1.4" stroke I know i'd be golden. I even modified the brake/clutch support to have an adjustable clutch pedal stop which originally have a fixed stop to get as much throw as possible The measurement can be with carpet etc just the way you use it. I used a sliding square and placed the rule where the flat bar of the pedal hits the carpet and have the sliding square part behind the pedal/pad. BTW I just replaced the MDL clutch with a Centerforce II, resurfaced flywheel (also Centerforce will not honor warranty if not resurfaced or new) that had maybe 1500 miles, they took off less than 0.010. Did have an ever so slight, slight chatter at times under certain conditions. Probably more noticeable because you could see shaker quiver ever so slightly when it did it. New fork, pivot, checked bellhousing concentricity, parallelism, pivot ball height, flywheel thickness and runout with new Centerforce clutch. Still requires too much preload to fully disengage Thanks for any info
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