Rsmach1

I would probably go with the 70 switch as that's the year trans you're using.

The shifter mounted switch only came with the FMX, AFAIK.

Nice looking car.

Out of the two you originally posted I vote the Atomic silver, so many of these cars are red, blue, think it would be unique, and I like different lol.

+1 with above comments.

Yes, all 1 wire alts are internally regulated, I just like the 3g's cause they get rid of the ext regulator as well, and ease of replacement if it goes bad.

Can always go with the Ford 3g alt conversion, it's internally regulated, the plus side to this is if yer alt ever goes out you can get it replaced at any auto parts store, vs having to order and wait for a new 1 wire to show up. Just an idea, here's how https://www.google.com/search?q=Ford+3g+alternator+into+early+mustang&client=ms-android-verizon&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjMyoHQ9ObMAhWJy4MKHe0lAhMQ_AUICCgC&biw=360&bih=511#tbm=isch&q=Mustang+steve+Ford+3g+alternator+into+early+mustang&imgrc=YmaPnCgFkRZV6M%3A

Yes

LOL Ray, I know the feeling.

$30-$75 bucks roughly, the standard trans pedal being at the upper end. I just bought an automatic pedal for $20 on eBay but that was a deal. West Coast Classic Cougar sells them for about $40 (auto trans) and $75 (man trans) Edit; if it's an auto trans pedal, the pivot shaft and retaining clip is worth another $20.

Although not in that price range I'm a big fan of Koni's Sport adjustable shocks, on sale at Summit right now for $115ea. Pretty good deal considering normal is $143. http://m.summitracing.com/search/brand/koni/part-type/shocks-and-struts/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang/gas-charged/no

I vote the peace of mind option, it shows wear, not all that expensive, and it's easy to change now. But that's just me lol.

+1 with RPM, If you or someone you know can weld just do the bearing conversion.

+1 with what's stated above. Even if the tranny doesn't pan out I'd recommend against adding an overdrive for your C6. The Gear vendors OD run like $2700 to $3300 bucks, for that kinda $ you can probably get a good or used 4r70w, have it gone thru and a controller. JMO.

It's really cam duration/overlap that causes low vacuum issues, but with 600+ lift you probably have a decent amount of duration too. The alternative to going manual brakes would be to install an electric vacuum pump, or go with a hydraboost. Personally I don't care for the electric pumps, wich is why I went with manual brakes. West Coast Classic Cougar sells manual pedals (for both auto and manual transmission cars and last I checked for $50 or less), you can also find them on eBay. You can use an auto pedal but you have to cut it down to fit a manual pedal pad. What are the duration specs at .050 on your cam? If in the engine already how much vacuum do you have at idle?

74 Maverick manual disc was 15/16 bore.

I would probably go with the 15/16, but best to check with Wilwood and see what they recommend. Be sure to let us know what they say.

Usually 15/16 or 7/8 bore but depends on what calipers because of volume requirements.

LOL gotcha

+1 with Rsanter, the clicking when you turn the key is the solenoid activating, not enough current or a bad starter or solenoid. Make sure your grounds are good, and grounded directly to the engine BLOCK, with no paint at that connection.

Only asked about bore size in case you wanted to sell your dust collector.

What bore size is it?

Nor am I anymore, I like Lunati's Voodoo line for off the shelf cams (still Udharold's design's).

I'm with ray1970... How did the original get bent? At least that's what I thought he was asking lol.

By the pic you posted of the caliper looks like that was the problem, it's a fairly common mistake.